Culinary Vietnam (12 page)

Rice Vermicelli with Salad and Herbs

Bun Voi Rau Thom

12 ounces rice vermicelli

8 to 10 leaves lettuce (butter, red or green leaf, or romaine), torn into bite-size pieces

1/2 cup mixed herb leaves (red or green perilla, cilantro, Vietnamese coriander, mint, fish balm, etc.), cut larger leaves into halves or thirds 1/4 cup Asian basil leaves

1 cup peeled, seeded, and julienned cucumber

1 cup bean sprouts

1/2 cup grated carrots (optional)

Serves about 4

These noodles combined with herbs and crunchy salad ingredients are often the base for grilled or stir-fried meats, tofu, or seafood, and sometimes meat and hot broth are added to them to make a soup; however, with a bit of Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce or other dipping sauce, they could make a light meal or salad all on their own. The noodles are served cold or, rather, at room temperature, so they may be cooked ahead of time and rinsed well to cool and prevent stickiness.

1
Cook the noodles in boiling water until just done but still a bit firm. Rinse in cool water until the water runs clear and the noodles are cooled; drain well.

2
Mix the lettuce, herbs, and vegetables together and place in bowls topped with some of the noodles, or place in communal bowls for guests to assemble themselves. Serve with toppings or several dipping sauces (Dipping Sauces & Condiments chapter).

Vietnam is a country that has a long and colorful history. It was first populated by a variety of indigenous groups, many who are still evident today. Throughout their sometimes difficult history, the Vietnamese people have proven to be clever, resilient, hardworking, family-centric, gracious, and joyful.

Hanoi-Style Grilled Pork with Rice Noodles

Bun Cha Hanoi

Traditional Marinade

1 large shallot, peeled and finely minced

2 scallions, thinly sliced crosswise to make rings

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon

Caramel Sauce,

or 2 teaspoons raw or brown sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon five spice powder (optional)

Meat and Noodles

1-1/2 pounds pork shoulder, trimmed and sliced about 1/4 inch thick or less and then cut into bite-size pieces (if you want to omit the ground pork patties, increase this to 2-1/2 pounds) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 ounces ground pork (optional)

1/2 white onion, finely chopped (optional if omitting the ground pork)

12 ounces rice vermicelli, cooked al dente about 4 to 5 minutes, then rinsed in cool water and drained

Garnishes

Lettuce leaves

Fresh herbs (mint, red perilla, cilantro, Asian basil, culantro, and Vietnamese balm)

Cucumber slices and/or bean sprouts

Sliced fresh chiles

Chopped fresh garlic

2 recipes of

Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

, with 1 cup additional water added

Serves 6 as a main dish or more as part of a larger meal

This simple street food is by far my favorite Vietnamese meal. It contains all of the savory goodness, fresh flavors, and contrasting textures that are embodied in the cuisine. Along with the savory grilled pork slices or pork belly and spicy patties of ground meat is a simple plate of cold rice noodles, a platter or basket containing fresh lettuce leaves, an array of pungent herbs, and a bowl of Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce where it is all mixed together. No elaborate meal that I have enjoyed at any upscale eatery has ever satisfied me so well or beckoned me back as powerfully as Bun Cha in Hanoi. Some of these vendors serve only the sliced pork, but most accompany it with a ground pork patty. I will give you both recipes and you can decide how far to go. Crispy Rolls with Salad Wrap, are usually offered to accompany Bun Cha. Cut into bite-size pieces, they are dipped in the broth and eaten with chopsticks.

1
Mix together all of the marinade ingredients, except the oil and divide equally between two bowls.

NOTE:
You may also use the recipe for Marinade for Grilled Meats for a nontraditional but equally tasty result.

2
Place the sliced pork in one bowl with the marinade, mix well, add the oil and mix again; marinate for 20 to 30 minutes.

3
Place the ground pork and onion in the other bowl, mix well, and shape into 2-inch-round patties that are about 1/4 inch thick. Start a gas or charcoal grill. Cook the pork slices and the patties until cooked through and slightly crispy around the edges.

4
Set the table with a plate of vermicelli and a plate with all the garnishes in the center. Provide a bowl with warmed dipping sauce to mix the noodles with the vegetables, herbs, pork pieces, chiles, garlic, and patties.

Chicken for Soup or Broth

Nuoc Dung Ga

1 (2-to-3-pound) chicken

5 quarts water, approximately

2 carrots, peeled

2 ribs celery

1 white onion

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 to 2 inches ginger, peeled and sliced

3 to 4 inches lemongrass, lightly smashed

1 to 2 star anise

1 teaspoon whole peppercorns

Makes about 1 gallon

This is a basic method for cooking a whole chicken to produce broth and meat to be used in soups and other dishes. It can be prepared using only the chicken and the water, but adding the optional ingredients makes for a more interesting and deeply flavored result.

1
Rinse the chicken and place in a pot large enough to hold the bird, water, and other ingredients.

2
Add enough water to cover the bird with an extra inch or two and heat slowly to boiling. Remove from heat and skim off and discard any foam that collects on the surface of the water. Add the vegetables and seasonings, and bring to a boil again; turn down to a simmer for 15 minutes and then turn off the heat; let sit 20 minutes more.

3
Remove chicken from pot and let cool enough to handle. Remove the skin and discard; strip the meat off the bones and reserve for another use. Put the bones back into the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat until just boiling and cook another 45 minutes, adding water as needed to maintain about 4 quarts liquid. Remove from heat and cool, skim off any excess fat, and then strain stock into a container. Store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to use.

Hue-Style Noodle Soup with Beef, Pork, and Meatballs

Bun Bo Hue

4 pounds beef soup bones, or 2 pounds beef bones and 2 pounds pork neck bones

1 pound boneless pork leg, skin and fat still attached

2 pounds boneless beef shank or trimmed brisket, cut in half

1/3 cup vegetable oil, divided

1 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon annatto seeds

Salt and black pepper

6 quarts water

4 stalks lemongrass, divided

4 tablespoons fish sauce, divided

1 large shallot, peeled and minced

4 cloves garlic, minced