Crackers & Dips (15 page)

1 tbsp stone-ground (grainy) mustard

Rub a 2-cup/480-ml fondue pot or miniature slow cooker with the garlic. Place the garlic and ¾ cup/180 ml of the beer in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ¼ cup/60 ml beer, the cornstarch, and lemon juice. Add the cornstarch mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thickened and bubbling, 3 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Add a handful of the grated cheeses and whisk in a zigzag pattern until the cheese has melted. Return the pan to low heat and continue to add the remaining cheese in handfuls, stirring in a zigzag pattern and adding more cheese only once the last handful has melted.

Increase the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until the mixture is smooth and
just
begins to bubble around the edges, about 5 minutes; the texture of the fondue will be slightly grainy if it is underdone (see Dip Tip). Do not let the fondue boil or simmer. Immediately remove the pan from the burner, stir in the mustard, and pour the fondue into the prepared warmer. Serve within 1 hour.

Dip Tip:
If your fondue begins to separate, take it off the heat immediately and add 1 or 2 tsp lemon juice. Whisk thoroughly in a zigzag motion and return the mixture to low heat. If the fondue was not too far gone, it will return to its creamy glory.

If your fondue is slightly grainy on the tongue after you’ve added all the cheese, the cheese may not be fully melted yet. Continue to cook the dip over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until it just starts to bubble around the edges; it will now be velvety smooth and ready to pour into the fondue pot.

TZATZIKI

I learned to make this creamy yogurt dip as an exchange student in northeastern Greece. I was placed with a family with two incredible cooks—my host father was a retired pastry chef and my host mother was a no-nonsense housewife who spent most of her time in the kitchen. Jackpot! The first thing I learned to make in their kitchen was this thick, garlicky tzatziki; it’s been a staple in my repertoire ever since.

MAKES 3½ CUPS/340 ML

32 oz/960 ml whole-milk plain yogurt

1 cucumber

Fine sea salt

2 garlic cloves, halved lengthwise, green sprout discarded

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Stack two 1-ft/30.5-cm squares of cheesecloth and run them under cold water. Wring out the fabric and lay it in a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium bowl, allowing the excess cloth to hang over the sides. Pour the yogurt into the fabric, gather up the excess cloth, and tie them up with string. Place the setup (including the sieve and the bowl) in the refrigerator until the yogurt is very thick, about 3 hours.

Peel the cucumber, halve it lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds. Finely chop or grate the cucumber, place it in a small bowl, toss with 1 tsp salt, and place it in a fine-mesh sieve set over the sink to drain for 1 hour.

Scoop the yogurt out of the cheesecloth and place it in a medium serving bowl; discard the whey and cheesecloth. Rinse the cucumber, pat it dry with paper towels, and place it in the bowl with the yogurt. Finely chop the garlic and then use the side of a chef’s knife to smash the garlic until it is a fine paste. Add the garlic paste to the yogurt and cucumber and stir well to combine. Season with additional salt and allow the dip to sit in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to develop. Drizzle with the olive oil immediately before serving. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 4 days.

WASABI EDAMAME SCHMEAR

The fresh, clean flavor of this thick soybean-based dip, or schmear, as I like to call it, goes well with the sesame seeds on the Crispy Wonton Triangles (
page 77
) and the soy and mirin flavors of the Senbei (
page 39
). It’s even more virtuous served with thinly sliced carrots and blanched pea pods. The heat from the wasabi will intensify with time; so if you prefer just a whisper of wasabi, add it right before serving.

MAKES 1½ CUPS/360 ML

One 12-oz/340-g bag frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans), defrosted

⅓ cup/75 ml water

2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tbsp sesame butter (tahini)

2 tsp wasabi paste (not powder)

Fine sea salt

2 tbsp vegetable oil

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the edamame, water, lemon juice, sesame butter, wasabi paste, and 1 tsp salt. Process until the mixture is smooth, about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down the sides of the work bowl once or twice while blending. With the machine running, slowly add the vegetable oil and process until incorporated. Taste the dip and season with salt, if needed. Keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

SPICY MINT AND CILANTRO CHUTNEY

This emerald-green dip mingles on the tongue with an appetizing balance of fresh minty flavor, tartness, sweetness, and a bit of heat. It’s best to follow the recipe, let the chutney sit for an hour so the flavors have a chance to bloom, and then add additional chile, sugar, or lime if desired.

MAKES 1¼ CUPS/300 ML

½ cup/40 g dry, unsweetened coconut flakes

3 cups/40 g loosely packed fresh mint leaves

2 cups/25 g loosely packed cilantro leaves (see Dip Tip)

1 serrano chile, chopped

¼ cup/60 ml freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tbsp sugar

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

Fine sea salt

Place the coconut in a medium bowl and cover with hot tap water. Soak for 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid.

In a food processor or blender, combine the drained coconut, mint, cilantro, serrano, lime juice, sugar, cumin, coriander, and enough of the soaking liquid (about ¼ cup/60 ml) to encourage the ingredients to move around in the bowl. Process or blend, scraping down the sides of the bowl or carafe frequently, until the chutney becomes a smooth paste.

Transfer the chutney to a serving bowl or airtight container. Allow the chutney to sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to develop. Season with salt and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Dip Tip:
A few cilantro stems in the chutney won’t do any harm, but avoid any mint stems; they’re much tougher and will have an adverse affect on the texture of the chutney.

FIGGY BOURBON CONSERVE

Figs grow in bumper crops here in the Pacific Northwest, and most folks with fig trees beg their neighbors to pick as many of the beautiful pod-shaped fruits as they can carry before they fall to the ground and make a sticky mess of their lawns.

This conserve was inspired by just such a picking foray. Instead of overdoing it with the sugar, like some fig jams, I like to focus on the deep, purple-brown flavor of figs, adding just a little bourbon and ginger to enhance the sensual flavor of the slow-stewed fruit. A natural partner for aged cheeses, this spread is great smeared with a little blue cheese, or try on the Brown Butter–Hazelnut Crackers (
page 63
) with a shaving of pecorino toscano for an unusual dessert nibble.

MAKES 1¾ CUPS/420 ML

1 lb/450 g ripe Mission figs

½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar

¼ cup/60 ml bourbon

2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus 2 tsp finely grated organic lemon zest

1 tbsp finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

Rinse and pat dry the figs. Cut the fruit into quarters and discard the stems. Place the figs, brown sugar, bourbon, lemon juice, lemon zest, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat; reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and jammy, 30 minutes.

Cool the mixture until just warm to the touch. Blend with an immersion blender or transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer the conserve to an airtight container and keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

BACON AND CARAMELIZED ONION JAM

This dip may sound over-the-top, but its roots are firmly planted in the French tradition of
rillettes
—meat cooked and preserved in its own fat to create spreadable pâté. That said, this decadent dip is definitely “dude food,” too; it will be an instant hit at your next Super Bowl party or barbecue alongside Corn Bread Crisps (
page 29
), Macadamia Nut and Coconut Flour Club Crackers (
page 73
), or Soda Water Crackers with Alder Smoked Salt (
page 26
).

As with most recipes, the success here has a lot to do with the shopping. Be sure to use good-quality smoked bacon like Nueske’s applewood smoked bacon (
www.nueskes.com
) for the best flavor. This recipe yields enough jam to share; it makes a great gift when packaged in pretty little jars tied with a pig-pink ribbon.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 ML

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

12 oz/340 g center-cut smoked bacon (8 to 10 slices), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm lengths

2 onions, thinly sliced through the root end

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tsp ground cumin

⅛ tsp ground cloves

½ cup/120 ml chicken broth

½ cup/100 g packed light brown sugar

3 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until all the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the bacon to a small bowl. Leave 2 tbsp of the drippings in the pan; reserve the rest for another use, or discard.

Add the onions to the pan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions turn light caramel brown and have softened and broken down to about half their original volume, 15 to 20 minutes. If the onions begin to burn, reduce the heat, and be patient: it’s crucial to cook down the onions slowly without burning them so they are sweet instead of bitter.

Reduce the heat to low if it is not already there and add the garlic, cumin, and cloves to the pan. Cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until the broth has been absorbed, 4 minutes.

Add the cooked bacon and brown sugar. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is syrupy, 5 minutes. Set aside and let the mixture cool for 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor, add the vinegar, and process until the bacon is in pieces no larger than ½ in/12 mm and the onions are the consistency of marmalade, 10 one-second pulses. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving bowl or airtight container. Serve at room temperature, or store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Reheat gently before serving.

WARM OLIVE TAPENADE

WITH PRESERVED LEMON