Classic Snacks Made from Scratch (7 page)

Bake until the cakes are puffy and golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Timing may vary, so watch carefully, but will be 8 to 10 minutes for canoe shapes, 13 to 15 minutes for cupcakes or mini loaf pans, and 18 to 20 minutes for 8-inch square metal baking pans or hot dog pans.

Cool the cakes in the pan for 10 minutes on a wire rack; they will shrink and pull away from the pan sides. Then line the wire rack with waxed paper and spritz the paper lightly with baking spray. Invert the pan to turn the cakes out onto the rack. Cool completely before cutting into Twinkie shapes (if using a loaf or hot dog pan) and filling.

MAKE THE FILLING:

Stir the sugar, corn syrup, and water together in a small, high-sided saucepan over medium low heat just until the sugar is fully dissolved and the liquid no longer feels granular. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan and bring the liquid to a boil without stirring. Continue to heat until the sugar syrup reaches 235°F to 240°F (soft-ball stage).

Meanwhile, using the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed just until soft peaks form. Just before the sugar syrup reaches soft-ball stage, restart the mixer on low speed. When the syrup is at temperature, carefully drizzle it into the egg whites.

Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and whip for 5 to 7 minutes, until the filling is thick, shiny, and white, forming stiff peaks. Add the vanilla and stir for another 15 seconds to incorporate.

ASSEMBLE THE CAKES:

Fill a pastry or gallon-size zip-top bag with the filling (see How to Fill a Pastry Bag,
page 187
).

Use a sharp paring knife to cut small holes in the cake bottoms (a single hole for cupcakes, 3 or 4 for canoes or cut loaf pieces). Insert the pastry tip into each hole and squeeze gently to fill. The cakes will swell slightly as the holes fill up.

Store the filled cakes in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to a week; as with most sponge cakes, they really do taste better after resting overnight than if eaten fresh.

In the autumn of my junior year of high school, a few enterprising journalism students took it upon themselves to stash a Sno-Ball cake inside the panels of our classroom’s ’70s-style dropped ceiling. When we—er, the scientifically minded students—retrieved the Sno-Ball in May, it was still in pristine pink condition. Scary!

These homemade Sno-Balls might look just like their packaged counterparts (and yes, you can still peel off the marshmallow layer), but I can promise you that the fresh coconutty cakes won’t last half as long.

YIELD:
12 cakes

TOTAL TIME:
4 hours, including marshmallow set time

DIFFICULTY:
5

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
standard 12-cup muffin tin, stand mixer, candy/oil thermometer

CUPCAKES

1-1/4 cups (5-3/8 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (1-1/2 ounces) unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup whole or reduced-fat milk

FILLING

2 large egg whites

1/2 cup (3-1/2 ounces) granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

MARSHMALLOW COATING

1 (1/4-ounce) envelope powdered unflavored gelatin

3/4 cup water, divided

1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar

1/4 cup light corn syrup

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups finely shredded coconut

MAKE THE CAKES:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spritz the wells of a standard 12-cup muffin tin
with baking spray.

Whisk the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl, sifting if needed to remove any lumps.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar together for 2 or 3 minutes on medium speed, until the butter is pale and fluffy. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the 2 eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly in between. Add the vanilla and stir for another 15 seconds to combine.

Add a third of the flour mixture, mixing on low until just combined, then half the milk. Repeat with a third more of the flour and the remaining milk, then the final portion of flour.

Divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin wells. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the cupcakes are set in the middle. Remove the cupcakes from the muffin tin and let cool to room temperature on a wire rack.

FILL THE CUPCAKES:

While the cupcakes cool, fill a small, straight-sided saucepan halfway with water and bring to a simmer. Place the egg whites and sugar in a heatproof stainless steel or Pyrex bowl and set over the simmering water. Whisk continuously for 1 to 2 minutes, until the sugar dissolves and the liquid is slightly opaque, frothy, and warm to the touch.

Transfer the whisked egg whites to the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the liquid becomes opaque and glossy. Add the cream of tartar and vanilla and whip for 1 to 2 more minutes, until the marshmallow mixture forms stiff peaks when the mixer is turned off and the whisk is lifted.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with waxed paper. Use a sharp paring knife to cut a deep, wide hole in the bottom of each cupcake, leaving a 1/2-inch cupcake border around the edge (this will become the top of your Sno-Ball).

Spoon filling into each hole, using a mini silicone spatula or spoonula, and spread flush with the top of the cupcake. Place marshmallow-side up on the prepared baking sheet.

COAT THE CUPCAKES:

Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over 1/4 cup water in the bowl of the stand mixer. Don’t bother to whisk; the gelatin will absorb the liquid on its own.

Stir the sugar, corn syrup, and remaining 1/2 cup water together in a high-sided
saucepan over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved and the liquid no longer feels grainy. Clip a candy thermometer to the saucepan and bring the sugar syrup to a boil. When the sugar syrup reaches 245°F (firm-ball stage), remove it from the heat.

Carefully pour the hot syrup into the dissolved gelatin. Using the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk at low speed for 30 seconds. Gradually increase the mixer speed to medium-high and beat for about 6 minutes, adding the vanilla during the last minute. The liquid will turn from syrupy and frothy to a light, fluffy, and shiny white marshmallow mixture that forms soft peaks when the mixer is stopped and the whisk is lifted.

Working quickly, use a silicone spatula to spread the marshmallow mixture over the bottom and sides of each cupcake, coating thickly and evenly and leaving the flatter, wider top (now the bottom) uncovered. Return each coated cupcake to the prepared baking sheet, uncoated side down, and sprinkle liberally with shredded coconut.

Allow the cupcakes to rest for 2 hours at room temperature to set the marshmallow coating.

Store the cupcakes at room temperature in an airtight container for up to a week.

No, Raspberry Zingers aren’t a soothing flavor of herbal tea, nor are they something you do to your baby brother’s belly when you’re a rambunctious older sibling. They’re essentially Twinkies coated in a bright-red raspberry glaze, then dusted with shredded coconut—as if a plain Twinkie weren’t sweet enough! Make these for Halloween: the gooey raspberry coating is bloody amazing.

YIELD:
16 cakes

TOTAL TIME:
2 hours

DIFFICULTY:
4

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
canoe pan (or standard 12-cup muffin tin, 4 mini loaf pans, square metal baking pans, or split-top hot dog bun pan), food processor, electric hand mixer and/or stand mixer, candy/oil thermometer, pastry bag (or zip-top bag) with large round piping tip, fine-mesh strainer

CAKE

5 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 cup (4-1/4 ounces) cake flour

FILLING

3/4 cup (5-1/4 ounces) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

1/4 cup water 3 large egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

RASPBERRY GLAZE

2 cups (20 ounces) raspberry jam

1/4 cup water

1 cup finely shredded coconut

MAKE THE CAKES:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spritz the pan(s) or pan wells with baking spray.

Separate the egg whites and yolks into separate large bowls.

Pour the sugar, baking powder, and salt into the bowl of a food processor; process for 15 to 20 seconds, until finely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl.

Using an electric hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment, beat the egg yolks on medium speed for 20 to 30 seconds, until they start to froth, thicken, and lighten in color. Slowly add the ground sugar mixture and the vanilla, and continue to beat until the eggs are very thick and pale—almost off-white and creamy in color. Reduce the mixer speed to low and stir in the flour. Set aside.

Using an electric hand mixer on high speed or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium-high, whip the egg whites into soft peaks. Stir about a quarter of the whipped egg whites into the batter to loosen it up, then gently fold in the remaining whites in 2 or 3 batches, working slowly to incorporate them without destroying their fluffiness.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, filling each well two-thirds full if using a canoe pan or muffin tin. Save any remaining batter for a second batch.

Bake until the cakes are puffy and golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean—8 to 10 minutes for canoe shapes, 13 to 15 minutes for cupcakes or mini loaf pans, or 18 to 20 minutes for 8-inch square metal baking pans or hot dog pans. Timing may vary, so watch carefully.

Cool the cakes in the pan for 10 minutes on a wire rack; they will shrink and pull away from the sides of the pan. Then line the rack with waxed paper and spritz the paper lightly with baking spray. Invert the pan to turn the cakes out onto the rack. Cool completely before cutting into log shapes (if using a loaf or hot dog pan) and filling.

MAKE THE FILLING:

In a small, high-sided saucepan, stir the sugar, corn syrup, and water together over medium-low heat just until the sugar has fully dissolved and the liquid no longer feels granular. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan and bring the liquid to a boil without stirring. Continue to heat until the sugar syrup reaches 235°F to 240°F (soft-ball stage).

Meanwhile, using the stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed just until soft peaks form. Just before the sugar syrup reaches soft-ball stage, restart the mixer on low speed; when the sugar syrup reaches temperature, carefully drizzle it into the egg whites.

Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and whip for 5 to 7 minutes, until the filling is thick, shiny, and white, forming stiff peaks. Add the vanilla and stir for 15 seconds to incorporate.

MAKE THE RASPBERRY GLAZE:

In a small saucepan, whisk the raspberry jam with the water and stir over low
heat for about 1 minute, just until the jam loosens to a syrupy consistency. Remove from the heat. If the jam has seeds, strain the syrup through a fine-mesh metal strainer into a clean bowl.