Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (25 page)

PENCIL LINER APPLICATION

Pencils are easy to use but are not long lasting and can smear. Layering powder shadow on top will help with these drawbacks.

1
Draw the pencil across the lash line and blend gently using a clean finger or brush.

2
Using short feathery strokes can result in a more natural effect.

3
To soften, smudge the line using your finger or a brush.

4
To give a pencil line staying power, use a liner brush to sweep a layer of powdered eye shadow in a corresponding shade over the pencil.

Eyeliner Dos & Don’ts

Don’t
apply liner to the inside rim of the eyelids, except for a theatrical effect or a fashion shoot. You risk infection and injury. And, rather than making the eyes stand out, lining inside the rim actually makes the eyes appear smaller.

Don’t
line just the bottom of the eye.

Do
line all the way across the lids! You can line just the top and not the bottom, but don’t line either lid halfway. Lining from the inner corner to the outer corner will help open up the eye.

Do
apply liner as close as possible to the lash line, making sure there is no gap. This has the added benefit of making the lashes look fuller and lush.

Do
apply liner thinnest at the inner corner of the eye, and thicken it as you move outward. This accentuates the eye’s shape and gives the eyes a lift.

Do
make the top and bottom lines of liner meet at the inside and outside corners to make the eyes appear larger. Not connecting the lines makes the eyelids appear too round and small.

Special Effects

For evening or other special occasions, you may want to use bolder, more dramatic eye-makeup techniques.

Smoky Eyes

Prime the eye area with an all-over white base that will allow the darker colors to blend. Apply a slightly darker shadow on the lower lid, from the lash line up to the crease and use a deeper one in the same color family layered on top. The standard technique described above can be used to line the lower lashes, keeping the application lighter and balanced with the upper eye. Apply a double layer of liner, first using a dry brush and then a gel or pencil. Extend the liner line slightly beyond the outer corners of the eyes. Then reapply the liner a bit heavier and repeat two more times if desired. Always add multiple coats of mascara. Smudge and blend.

Glam Eyes

This look is great for New Year’s Eve or the Oscars. Over a white base, layer cool colors, such as gray and slate. Build the depth of the color gradually, from the lash line to the crease. Finish with a strong liner application along the top lash line only, ending in an upward-sweeping point. Sweep a metallic or shimmery color over the lid layered from medium to dark. Finish with false lashes or three to four coats of black mascara.

SMOKY EYE APPLICATION

A smoky eye is the most dramatic look for evening—it’s pretty and sexy. Remember to keep layering the color and continue to check until you like the look.

1
Start with white shadow on the entire lid.

2
Choose a medium, smoky color for the lower lid. Apply it three-quarters of the way up.

3
Continue to layer the color to make it darker. Add a deeper color on top and in the crease to intensify the look.

4
Concentrate on the crease. Continue to layer the shadow deeply enough to create a dramatic effect.