Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (24 page)

1
With a full shadow brush, apply a light shade (also known as your base color).

2
Choose medium-tone shadow for the lid and apply it three-quarters of the way up to the brow.

3
Sweep color all the way to the crease, blending as you go up.

4
Apply a deeper color on top of the first color for density. blend.

EYELINER

Eyeliner is the ultimate way to define and enhance the eyes. it frames the eyes, makes them appear larger, and really makes them stand out. Liner can also be used to improve the shape of the eyes. its application needs to be generous enough to be visible when the eyes are open to make the most impact. Many women achieve a beautiful, defined look using liner only on the top lash line. for those who use liner on both top and bottom lash lines, it is important to keep the top thicker than the bottom. to avoid the appearance of tiredness and darkness under the eye, apply a relatively thin or smudged line as close as possible to the lower lash line.

Liner Formulas

There are several eyeliner formulations: powdered shadow, eye pencil, and liquid or gel liner. Each has its advantages and specific application techniques.

SHADOW LINERS
are easy to apply, dry or damp, and can be long-lasting if applied correctly. Using shadow liner requires a good eyeliner brush—one that is thin, stiff, and flat, with either a straight or a slightly rounded tip.

EYELINER PENCILS
are easy to apply but may smudge. Pencil liners have a creamy consistency that smears if they are not set with either eyeshadow or face powder.

LIQUID, CA KE, AND GEL LINERS
are the most difficult to apply, but with practice, you can achieve incredible results. These liners are extremely long-wearing, very precise, and a good choice for creating dramatic looks.

Special Techniques

Dark circles look darker
when liner is applied on the lower lash line. Bring concealer up to the lash line, and use only mascara on the lower lashes.

Make eyes look more intense
by double lining. Use a dark shadow with a dry eyeliner brush, then repeat with a liquid liner or wet brush using a slightly thinner line. The gradation in depth from the lash line will give a dense look to the lashes. The technique can also be reversed—gel can be softened with shadow.

GEL, LIQUID & CAKE LINER APPLICATION

These formulas are the longest lasting. Mastering the techniques for using them will be worthwhile. Always line the whole lid across, with a thicker line at the outer corner, gradually thinning the line toward the inner corner.

1
Begin lining in the middle of the lash line and move to the outside corner of the eye. Gently lift the lid to get close to the eye.

2
Apply the liner in smooth strokes.

3
Next, apply the liner all the way to the inner corner of eye.

4
See the difference with one eye lined.

5
Repeat with the other eye.

6
Note the difference when both eyes are lined.

Tip

Do not leave space between the eyeliner and the lash line. If, after application, there is a small space, fill it in with the same shade of powdered eye shadow.