Best Food Writing 2015

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Authors: Holly Hughes

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PRAISE FOR THE

Best Food Writing

SERIES

“What is so great about this annual series is that editor Holly Hughes curates articles that likely never crossed your desk, even if you're an avid reader of food content. Nearly every piece selected is worth your time.” —The Huffington Post

“There's a mess of vital, provocative, funny, and tender stuff . . . in these pages.” —
USA Today

“Some of these stories can make you burn with a need to taste what they're writing about.” —
Los Angeles Times

“The essays are thought-provoking and moving. . . . This is an absolutely terrific and engaging book. . . . There is enough variety, like a box of chocolates, that one can poke around the book looking for the one with caramel and find it.” —
New York Journal of Books

“Stories for connoisseurs, celebrations of the specialized, the odd, or simply the excellent.” —
Entertainment Weekly

“This book is a menu of delicious food, colorful characters, and tales of strange and wonderful food adventures that make for memorable meals and stories.” —
Booklist

“This collection has something for connoisseurs, short story fans, and anyone hungry for a good read.” —
Library Journal

“Browse, read a bit, browse some more, and then head for the kitchen.” —
Hudson Valley News

“The finest in culinary prose is offered in this new anthology . . . these pages delight and inform readers with entertaining and provocative essays. . . . This book ultimately opens readers' eyes to honest, real food and the personal stories of the people behind it.” —
Taste for Life

“Longtime editor Hughes once again compiles a tasty collection of culinary essays for those who love to eat, cook, and read about food. . . . A literary trek across the culinary landscape pairing bountiful delights with plenty of substantive tidbits.” —
Kirkus Reviews

“A top-notch collection, Hughes brings together a wonderful mix that is sure to please the foodie in all of us.” —
San Francisco Book Review

“An exceptional collection worth revisiting, this will be a surefire hit with epicureans and cooks.” —
Publishers Weekly
, starred review

“If you're looking to find new authors and voices about food, there's an abundance to chew on here.” —
Tampa Tribune

“Fascinating to read now, this book will also be interesting to pick up a year from now, or ten years from now.” —
Popmatters.com

“This is a book worth devouring.” —
Sacramento Bee

“The cream of the crop of food writing compilations.” —
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel

“The book captures the gastronomic zeitgeist in a broad range of essays.” —
San Jose Mercury News

“There are a few recipes among the stories, but mostly it's just delicious tales about eating out, cooking at home, and even the politics surrounding the food on our plates.” —
Spokesman-Review

“The next best thing to eating there is.” —
New York Metro

“Spans the globe and palate.” —
Houston Chronicle

“The perfect gift for the literate food lover.” —
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

A
LSO EDITED BY
H
OLLY
H
UGHES

Best Food Writing 2014

Best Food Writing 2013

Best Food Writing 2012

Best Food Writing 2011

Best Food Writing 2010

Best Food Writing 2009

Best Food Writing 2008

Best Food Writing 2007

Best Food Writing 2006

Best Food Writing 2005

Best Food Writing 2004

Best Food Writing 2003

Best Food Writing 2002

Best Food Writing 2001

Best Food Writing 2000

A
LSO BY
H
OLLY
H
UGHES

Frommer's 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers

Frommer's 500 Places to See Before They Disappear

Frommer's 500 Places to Take the Kids Before They Grow Up

Copyright © 2015 by Holly Hughes

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Printed in the United States of America. For information, address Da Capo Press, 44 Farnsworth Street, 3rd Floor, Boston, MA 02210.

Design by Jeff Williams

Set in 11 point Arno Pro by the Perseus Books Group

Cataloging-in-Publication data for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

First Da Capo Press edition 2015

ISBN: 978-0-7382-1865-6 (e-book)

Published by Da Capo Press

A Member of the Perseus Books Group

www.dacapopress.com

Da Capo Press books are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the U.S. by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. For more information, please contact the Special Markets Department at the Perseus Books Group, 2300 Chestnut Street, Suite 200, Philadelphia, PA, 19103, or call (800) 810-4145, ext. 5000, or e-mail
[email protected]
.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Contents

Introduction

The Way We Eat Now

The Perfect Beast,
from
Outside

By Rowan Jacobsen

Growing a $30 Million Egg,
from
Food & Wine

By Emily Kaiser Thelin

OMFG! It's the PSL!
from
Seattle Met

By Allecia Vermillion

Maverick Wine Guru Tim Hanni Rethinks the Pour,
from the
Sacramento Bee

By Chris Macias

Kids These Days,
from
San Francisco Magazine

By Sara Deseran

How to Get People to Cook More? Get Eaters to Complain Less.
from the
Washington Post

By Tamar Haspel

Cooking's Not for Everyone,
from
Edible San Francisco

By Molly Watson

The Restaurant Biz

Dinner Lab Hopes to Build the World's First Data-Driven Restaurant. But Is That a Good Thing?
from
LA Weekly

By Besha Rodell

At Your Service?
from
Fool

By Oliver Strand

Coding and Decoding Dinner,
from
The Oxford American

By Todd Kliman

Waste Not, Want Not (and Pass the Fish Skin),
from the
New York Times

By Pete Wells

The Last Supper,
from
Esquire

By Tom Junod

Someone's in the Kitchen

No Chef in America Cooks Dinner Quite Like Philip Foss,
from Eater

By Ryan Sutton

The Meat Prophet of Peru,
from Roads & Kingdoms

By Nicholas Gill

In Search of the Perfect Taco,
from the
New York Times T Magazine

By Jeff Gordinier

      
Shepherd's Tacos (Tacos al Pastor)

Table Lessons,
from
Edible New Orleans

By Allison Alsup

Kitchen Diplomacy,
from
Garden & Gun

By Nic Brown

At the Stove

The Truth About Cast Iron Pans,
from Serious Eats

By J. Kenji López-Alt

Roasting a Chicken, One Sense at a Time,
from
Finesse

By Russ Parsons

The Secret Ingredient in the Perfect Burger Is . . .
from
Food & Wine

By Daniel Duane

      
Ode to the Kronnerburger

Ragù Finto,
from
Twelve Recipes

By Cal Peternell

      
Ragu Finto

Serial Killer,
from KimFoster.com

By Kim Foster

It's Not About the Bread,
from
Edible Baja Arizona

By Megan Kimble

Traditions

The Lunch Counter,
from
Garden & Gun

By John T. Edge

Hot Country,
from
Saveur

By Jane and Michael Stern

      
Nashville Hot Chicken

Oyster Heaven,
from the
Seattle Times

By Bethany Jean Clement

The Story of Chicken,
from
The Cook's Cook

By Karen J. Coates

      
Thai Grilled Chicken

      
Chicken in Pandanus

Gumbo Paradise,
from
Saveur

By Keith Pandolfi

      
Fried Chicken and Andouille Gumbo

In Search of Ragu,
from Roads & Kingdoms

By Matt Goulding

      
Ragù alla Bolognese

How to Make Carnitas That Will Fix Everything That's Wrong in Your Sad, Horrible Life,
from BuzzFeed.com

By Nicolás Medina Mora

      
How to Make an Insanely Delicious Feast of Mexican Carnitas; or, How to Make a Mexican Feast at Home in Gringolandia

The Family Table

The Imperfect Family Kitchen,
from ParentsNeedToEatToo.com

By Debbie Koenig

Friday Night Meatballs,
from Serious Eats

By Sarah Grey

      
Super Simple Friday Night Meatballs

A Mother's Cookbook Shares More Than Recipes,
from the
New York Times

By Kim Severson

Of Links and Legacy,
from the
Minneapolis Star-Tribune

By Steve Hoffman

Monkey Eve,
from
Alimentum

By Carolyn Phillips

Loving Spoonful,
from
Saveur

By Zainab Shah

      
Pakistani Slow-Cooked Lamb Stew
(Dumbay ki Nihari)

I'm Just Trying to Keep Everyone Alive,
from Food52.com

By Phyllis Grant

      
Brown Butter Apple Tart

Life, on a Plate

Leaning in Toward the Last Supper,
from
Lucky Peach

By Sarah Henry

Infrequent Potatoes,
from
Poor Man's Feast

By Elissa Altman

Finding Home at Taco Bell,
from Eater

By John DeVore

The One Ingredient That Has Sustained Me During Bouts of Leukemia,
from the
Washington Post

By Jim Shahin

Yeast Are Never Depressed,
from Leite's Culinaria

By David Leite

Mexico in Three Regrets,
from Chow

By John Birdsall

Beach Town,
from
Lucky Peach

By Anthony Bourdain

Recipe Index

Permissions Acknowledgments

About the Editor

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