What Einstein Kept Under His Hat: Secrets of Science in the Kitchen (51 page)
Read What Einstein Kept Under His Hat: Secrets of Science in the Kitchen Online
Authors: Robert L. Wolke
The best way to avoid chocolate bloom is to consume all chocolate as soon as it comes within reach. That’s my method.
| | THE GRINCH WHO STOLE CHOCOLATE | |
In health-food stores I have seen chocolate bars made out of carob, presumably to avoid the fat and caffeine in ordinary chocolate. What, exactly, is carob?
....
H
ere we go, from the sublime to the ridiculous.
First of all, contrary to common belief, chocolate doesn’t contain much caffeine at all. A square (one ounce) of unsweetened baking chocolate averages 23 milligrams of caffeine, while a cup of coffee might contain more than 100 milligrams. An ounce of unsweetened chocolate does contain 376 milligrams of theobromine, however, an alkaloid closely related to caffeine but a milder stimulant.
The leguminous carob tree (
Ceratonia siliqua
), also known since biblical times as the locust bean tree, grows in relatively arid, semitropical climates such as in California, Florida, and the eastern Mediterranean region. Its pods have been dubbed Saint John’s bread because the Bible says that John the Baptist survived in the wilderness by eating “locusts and honey.” In spite of the Bible’s preoccupation elsewhere with locusts (the word appears twenty-nine times in the King James version), it is more likely that John munched on locust
beans
rather than on the insects.
Locust bean gum, which appears in many food ingredient lists, is a tasteless, mucilaginous polysaccharide thickener obtained from the carob’s seeds. It is used to thicken frozen desserts, cultured dairy products, cream cheese, and other foods. It interacts with the other vegetable gums xanthin and carrageenan to form rigid gels, and is therefore rarely used alone.
So where does chocolate come in? The carob tree makes long, edible, seed-bearing pods that can be dried and ground into a powder. Because the powder is brown, sweet (it contains about 40 percent sugars), and virtually fat-free, someone got the not-so-bright idea of using it as a substitute for chocolate. Unfortunately, because it lacks chocolate’s fat it has a sandy, gritty texture, not to mention an almost total absence of flavor.
Carob is the Grinch who stole chocolate. Fuhgeddaboudit.
WE HAVE ARRIVED
at the last course in our feast of knowledge: our dessert. We’ll conclude, then, with recipes for two sweet treats, a classic one and an off-beat one.
The classic one is a
ganache
, a blend of the two most luxuriant ingredients in our epicurean armamentarium: chocolate and whipping cream. In essence a marriage of two fats, cocoa butter and butterfat, ganache on a menu is not for the faint of
carte
. Rarely billed by its own name, it might be concealed as the frosting on a cake or the filling between its layers. Or it might be the center of a truffle. Wherever it appears, ganache is the definitive chocolate
crème
, and you know that when cream is spelled the French way, it’s gotta be good.
Our offbeat concluding confection is a grilled chocolate sandwich. Yes, a sandwich. Bread and all. Any time you’re in the mood for a soul-nourishing nosh, you can quickly whip up the cacao gods’ answer to the grilled cheese sandwich.
I hate it when a restaurant server says, “Enjoy.”
But enjoy!
| | Ganache | |
A
ganache is a mixture of melted chocolate and heated heavy cream, blended together until very smooth. The relative amounts of the two ingredients may vary, but equal amounts give good results and are easy to remember. Ganache is often cooled and shaped into balls to form the soft centers for truffles. Here, lukewarm ganache is poured over a cake to make a smooth and luscious shiny glaze.
For a 1-layer 8- or 9-inch round cake, you will need about 1 cup ganache. Use the leftover ganache as a sauce for poached pears, ice cream, or other dessert. It will keep for up to 2 months in a well-covered container in the refrigerator—if you can keep from eating it with a spoon, that is.
8 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
1.
Put the chopped chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.
2.
In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and whisk gently until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Allow to cool to warm.
3.
Place a cool 8- or 9-inch cake layer on a rack over a baking sheet or a piece of foil. Pour the warm ganache over the cake and use a metal icing spatula to coax and spread it over the top of the cake and down the sides. Let the iced cake set for about 1 hour before serving.
MAKES 1
1
/
2
CUPS
| | Grilled Chocolate Sandwich | |
T
his sandwich makes a surprising and delicious dessert, afternoon snack, or indulgent breakfast. It is a semi-incestuous marriage, if you will, of transatlantic cousins, the American grilled cheese sandwich with the French
pain au chocolat
. In the latter
pâtisserie
classic,
batons
of chocolate are wrapped in rectangles of flaky pastry.
Bob and I prefer dark chocolate, but you can make yours with milk chocolate if you wish.
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 slices plain white or sourdough bread, each about
1
/
2
inch thick or less
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1.
Spread 1 teaspoon softened butter on 1 side of each slice of bread. Place 1 slice, butter side down, in the center of a small, cold nonstick skillet. Carefully scatter the chocolate over the surface of the bread to within
1
/
4
inch of the edge. Top with the other slice of bread, buttered side up, to make a sandwich.
2.
Place the skillet over medium-high heat. Put a flat weight, such as a small plate, on top of the sandwich. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the bottom slice is lightly browned. The chocolate should be barely melted, not oozing out the sides. Turn the sandwich over and cook for about 2 minutes longer, or until the second side is browned.
3.
Remove the sandwich to a plate, cut into quarters, and serve warm.
SERVES 1 OR 2 INDULGENTLY
PLEASE NOTE:
Nowhere in this book have I used the word
myriad
.
| | INDEX | |
accessory fruits, 149
achiote, 314
acid(s)
color of tea and, 13, 14
dissolving calcium in bones with, 312–13
fatty.
see
fatty acids (FAs)
importance in cooking, 251
in marinades, 288–89
to minimize enzymatic browning of fruit, 155
in olive oil, 177–78
as preservatives, 375
protein denaturation by, 249–51
solubility of tannins and, 7
see also
specific acids
acid-base indicators
anthocyanins as, 47
tannins as, 13–14
acrolein, 174
actin, 271
activated charcoal, 370–71
active sites, of enzymes, 12
advanced meat recovery (AMR) systems, 273–74
Afilalo, Jonathan, 19
age bloom, on chocolate, 440–41
aggregate fruits, 148–49
aging
of cheese, 77
of eggs, 106
of wines for Sherry, 30–31
air
as conductor of heat, 404
in ice cream, 68
airport security x-rays, inability to kill insects and parasites, 376
aji,
334
alcohol(s), 177
sugar, 233–34
types of, 22–23
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (ATB), 36
alcohol, ethyl
to cool heat from capsaicins, 337
flavor release by, 313–15
mixed with water, 313–15
alcoholic beverages, 4
regulating amount imbibed, 43–46
see also
specific beverages
aldehydes, 177, 315
alkali(s), 7n
in black olive production, 185
color of tea and, 13, 14
in dishwasher detergent, 376
lime as.
see
lime (calcium oxide)
in oil production, 162
role in cooking, 251
thousand-year-old eggs and, 106
in vegetable cooking water, 112
in water used to soak dried beans, 144
alkalinity, 6, 7n
alkaloids, in chili peppers, 334
alkyl dimethylbenzy ammonium chloride, 116
alkylthiosulfonates, 340–41
allicin, 343
alliin, 343
alliinase, 126
allyl isothiocyanate, 336, 358
allyl trisulfide, 345
alpha-galactosidase, 142
Althaea officinalis,
427
aluminum
discoloration and corrosion in dishwasher, 376–78
emissivity of, 399
American sea scallops, 262
amino groups, 297
ammonia, odor of, in fish, 347
Amontillados, 30
amphoteric substances, 369, 377
AMR (advanced meat recovery) systems, 273–74
amygdalin, 423
amylase, in honey, 236
amylopectin starches, 204–5
anacardic acid, in cashews, 201
anandamide, in chocolate, 433
anchos, 335
angel hair pasta, 221, 222
angular momentum, 97
angular velocity, 97
anions, 14
annatto seeds, 314
anthocyanins, 13–14, 47, 109, 110
anthoxanthins, 109, 117
antimicrobials, as preservatives, 374
antioxidants, 175
in cattle feed, 279
in honey, 237
as preservatives, 375
Apiadeae, 327
Apicus, Marcus Gavius, 234
apple(s), floating in water, 191–92
apple brandy, 197–98
apple cider, 194–95
applejack, 197, 198
apple juice, 194–95
fermented, 195, 196–98
filtering of, 195
pasteurization of, 195
apple wine, 197
arborio rice, 212–13
Argopecten gibbus,
262
Argopecten irradians,
262
Arm & Hammer, 368, 370
ascorbic acid, as preservative, 375
Aspergillus oryzae,
138
astaxanthin, 240
ATB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau), 36
Atlantic blue mussels, 253, 254
aubergines,
266
autocatalytic reactions, 151
avocados
ripening of, 150
wasabi guacamole, 360
BAC (blood alcohol concentration), 44–45
bacteria
in buttermilk, 63
in butter production, 83–84
converting nitrate to nitrite, 283
good and bad, 77
meat spoilage and, 278
multiplication of, 311
nitrites to inhibit growth of, 283
nitrogen-fixing, 143
rotting of eggs by, 101
spores formed by, 310–12, 346
toxins produced by, 311
warm water as breeding ground for, 303
in yogurt production, 60–61, 62
see also
specific bacteria
baker’s dozen, 417
bakeware
oven temperature and, 400–401
silicone, 405–8
baking
of beignets soufflés, 165
in brick ovens, 395–97
pizza stones for, 395–97
substituting olive oil for butter in, 184
see also
ovens; oven temperature
baking chocolate, 433
baking soda
to keep refrigerator smelling fresh, 368–71
in vegetable cooking water, 112
in water used to soak dried beans, 144
bananas
plantains distinguished from, 157
ripening of, calories and, 156–57
Bananas Byczewski, 158–59
Bananas Foster, 157, 158
B[a]P (benzo[a]pyrene), 323
barbecue sauce, Jack Daniel’s rib-ticklin,’ 38
barbecuing, grilling differentiated from, 317
bases, 6n
see also
alkali(s)
basmati rice, 213
Bass, Black, Miso-Glazed, 139–40
Batter Bread, Beer, 26
bay scallops, 262
bean(s)
dried, cooking, 145–46
dried, soaking, 144–46
intestinal gas caused by, 141–42
Beano, 142
beard, of mussels, 252
beef
ground, color of, 275–79
ground, odor of, 276
Marinated Skirt Steak Fajitas, 294–95
stock, 306
beer, 24–25
Beer Batter Bread, 26
Beignets Soufflés, 164–65
bell peppers, 335
benzo[a]pyrene (B[a]P), 323
benzoates, as preservatives, 374
benzoyl peroxide, bleaching of flour with, 217
berries, 148
Best Damn Cheesecake, 71–72
betalains, 110
BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), 175, 375
BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), 175, 375
bicarbonate of soda.
see
baking soda
Big Green Egg, 320, 321
binge drinking, 43
Bi-O-Kleen Produce Wash, 114
Birdseye, Clarence, 373–74
birefringence, 282
bitterness, in cucumbers, 130–31
bixin, 314
Black Bass, Miso-Glazed, 139–40
black-body radiators, 399
black olives, 185
black pepper, 333
in Spicy Chocolate Crinkle Monsters, 329
black tea, 10–11
Blangé, Paul, 158
bleach, chlorine.
see
chlorine bleach
bleaching
of flour, 217–18
of oils, 162
Blistered Wild Salmon, 241
blood alcohol concentration (BAC), 44–45
bloom, on chocolate, 440–41
bomba
rice, 213
bones
dissolving calcium in, 312–13
dry roasting for stock, 304
bottarga,
247–48
botulin toxin, 311, 346
see also
Clostridium botulinum
botulism, 283, 346
infantile, 237
see also
Clostridium botulinum
bourbon, 36
lowering of freezing point of water by, 39–40
Bourbon vanilla, 364
bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), 274
Boy Scouts, 429
braising, 295–98
brandy, apple, 197–98
Brassicaceae, 327
bread(s)
Beer Batter Bread, 26
bleaching of flour for, 217
Citrus Brioche Loaf, 182–83
to cool heat from capsaicins, 337
breath testing, for blood alcohol concentration, 44
Brennan, Owen, 158
brick ovens, 395–97, 399
Brie cheese, 73–74, 77
Brioche Loaf, Citrus, 182–83
British thermal units (Btu’s), 386–87
broiled polenta slices, 229
broiling, 390–93
browning, “old-age,” 278
browning reactions
brown appearance due to, 302
caramelization (sugar), 299, 341
enzymatic, 155–56, 299, 375
Maillard (sugar-amine).
see
Maillard reactions
brown stocks, 303–4
Brucella,
77
brucellosis, 75, 77
BSE (bovine spongiform encephalopathy), 274
Btu’s (British thermal units), 386–87
buckled cans, 312
buckwheat flour, 219–20
bulging cans, 312
butchering, 272–73
butter
composition of, 82–83, 84
finishing sauces with, 82–83
butter (
continued
)
flavor of, 84
production of, 83–84
rancid, 173–74, 369
storing, 372
substituting olive oil for, in baking, 184
butterfat
in cream, 52–59
in ice cream, 66
in milk, 52–55
buttermilk, bacteria in, 63
butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), 175, 375
butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), 175, 375
butyric acid, in rancid butter, 173, 369
byssus,
of mussels, 252
cacao beans, 432
cacao butter, 433
cacao fat, in chocolate, 432, 433
cacao liquor (cacao mass; cacao paste), 432–33
cacao solids, 433
Caesar, Julius, 235
caffeine
in chocolate, 441
in tea, 15
cakes
Sponge, Fresh Orange, 88–89
testing for doneness, 402
calcium carbonate, 232
calcium chloride, in salt, 362
calcium oxide (lime), 232
in
masa harina
production, 231
calcium propionate, as preservative, 374
calcium sulfate, curdling of soy milk by, 136
calories
in bananas, 156–57
Btu’s (British thermal units) and, 386
chemist’s versus nutritionist’s definition of, 21
in cottage cheese, 70
digestibility of carbohydrates and, 224–25
fat in milk and, 54
in yogurt, 60
Calvados, 198
Camembert, 76
cancer.
see
carcinogens
candies, pillowcase sweets, 58–59
candling of eggs, 91, 94
cans, bulging or buckled, 312
canthaxanthin, in salmon, 240
capellini,
221, 222
caproic acid, 369
caprylic acid, 369
capsaicin, 334
capsaicinoids, 334–35, 337, 351
capsicum(s), 328, 333–35
Capsicum annuum,
333, 354
Capsicum annuum var. aviculare,
335
caramelization
Maillard reactions versus, 299
misuse of term when applied to onions, 341
carbohydrates, 203–6
complex, 204–5, 224
digestibility of, 224–25
digestible (net), 205
see also
cellulose; starches; sugar(s)
carbon dioxide, dissolved, escape from liquids, 33
carbon monoxide
poisoning by, 242–43
production of, 244
tuna treated with, 243–44
carbonyl groups, 297
carcinogens
nitrosamines as, 283
in smoke, 323–24, 356
cardol, in cashews, 201
Caribbean “vanilla,” 366
Carlos V, King of Spain, 355
carob, as chocolate substitute, 441–42
carotenoids, 109, 110, 240
carrots, discoloration of, 117
carvone, 336
casein, micelles in, 62
cashew nuts, raw, 200–201
Cassatt, Mary, 58
cassowary eggs, 99
catalysis, 12
caustic soda, see sodium hydroxide (caustic soda; lye)
cayenne peppers, 335
insects in, 352–53
cellulose, 206, 223, 225
burning of, 324
Celsius, Anders, 388
Celsius scale, conversion between Fahrenheit scale and, 388–89
Ceratonia siliqua,
441
chai, 9
chalazae, in eggs, 102
Champagne, leftover, saving, 33–34
charcoal
activated, 370–71
briquettes, 318–19
lump, 317, 318
to prevent flatulence with beans, 142
charcoal grills, gas grills versus, 316–20
chelating agents, 375
cheese
production of, 75–78
see also
specific types of cheese
chicken
Sherry-Browned, with Garlic, 32
stock, 306
in Ultimate Oven Paella, 258–60
chile(s),
334
chili pepper(s), 333–35
keeping of flavor by, 348
measuring heat of, 335
Chili Pepper Hash Browns, 339–40
chilling.
see
cooling; refrigeration; temperature
Chinese rice, 213
chlorine bleach