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85
He’d spied on his own father’s autopsy
Ibid., 43.
85
given matches to a drunken tramp
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
548.
86
he told the story in letters
Powers,
Mark Twain,
89.
86
“incapacitated by fatigue”
Twain,
Autobiography,
134.
86
accidentally gunning down a civilian
Mark Twain, “The Private History of a Campaign That Failed,” in
Mark Twain: Collected Tales, Sketches, Speeches, and Essays, 1852-1890
(story first published 1885; New York: Library of America, 1992), 879.
86
“it never rains here, and the dew never falls”
SLC to Jane Lampton Clemens, Oct. 26, 1861, Carson City, NV,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Edgar Marguess Branch, Michael B. Frank, Kenneth M. Sanderson, Harriet Elinor Smith, Lin Salamo, and Richard Bucci, eds. Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00031.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Mar. 18, 2009.
87
“I wish I was back there piloting”
SLC to Jane Clampton Clemens, Jan. 20, 1866, San Francisco,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00094.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Nov. 9, 2009.
87
eighteen great boats
R. Kent Rasmussen,
Mark Twain A-Z
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1995), 440.
87
Fried Trout
Corson,
Practical American Cookery,
217.
88
prospectors spread rainbow trout
Details on transfers from Ralph Cutter,
Sierra Trout Guide
(Portland, OR: Frank Amato Publications, 1991), 21-25.
88
from the crest of the Rockies
John Merwin,
The New American Trout Fishing
(New York: Macmillan, 1994), 75.
88
Europe’s eleven historically recognized species
Cutter,
Sierra Trout Guide,
23.
89
a writer for
American Angler
Merwin,
New American Trout Fishing,
76.
89
“They fried the fish with the bacon”
Twain,
The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,
100.
89
“one of the largest brook trout”
De Voe,
The Market Assistant,
237.
89
“roaring demon”
Twain,
Life on the Mississippi,
33.
89
the nation’s first fishing
Susan Williams,
Food in the United States, 1820s-1890
(Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2006), 133.
90
“supposed the gas-works”
De Voe,
The Market Assistant,
241.
90
Light bends when it enters water
Thomas C. Grubb,
The Mind of the Trout: A Cognitive Biology for Biologists and Anglers
(Madison: Univerisity of Wisconsin Press, 2003), 10.
90
the eyes of trout continue to grow
Ibid., 15.
90
beer, cheese, and mustard
Powers,
Mark Twain,
114.
90
ten thousand tents
George Williams III,
Mark Twain: His Life in Virginia City, Nevada
(Carson City, NV: Tree by the River Publishing Trust, 1986), 38.
90
“‘papered’ inside with flour-sacks”
SLC to Pamela A. Moffett and Jane Lampton Clemens, Oct. 25, 1861, Carson City, NV,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00030.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Jan. 12, 2010.
91
“their own bacon and beans”
Twain,
Roughing It,
392.
91
butter could take nearly a year
Williams,
Food in the United States,
141.
91
“for breakfast, hot biscuit, fried bacon”
Annie Tallent, “Bill of Fare on the Plains,” in O’Neill,
American Food Writing,
119.
91
booms in the canning industry
Vileisis,
Kitchen Literacy,
75.
91
lack of air that sterilized
Ibid., 78.
91
Twain did get used to trail food
Twain,
Roughing It,
182.
92
“water in a high place”
Robert Stewart, “Sam Clemens and the Wildland Fire at Lake Tahoe,”
Nevada Historical Society Quarterly
51, no. 2 (Summer 2008), 103.
92
“If there is any life that is happier”
Twain,
Roughing It,
152.
93
“When we come to speak of beauty”
Mark Twain,
The Innocents Abroad
(1869; New York: Penguin, 2002), 380.
94
“is agreeably struck”
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin,
The Physiology of Taste; or, Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy,
M.F.K. Fisher, trans. (1825; New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1949), 40.
94
“prim, hideous, straight-up-and-down”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
169-70.
95
Cream Trout
Eliza Leslie,
The Lady’s Receipt-Book
(Philadelphia: Carey and Hart, 1847), 23.
96
“not prepared in the ineffectual goblet”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
293.
96

iced
water”
Twain,
Autobiography,
6.
96
“merely give you a tumbler”
Twain,
A Tramp Abroad,
154.
96
“pure and limpid ice-water”
Ibid., 270.
96
“How do they know?”
Ibid., 154.
96
“I think that there is but a single specialty”
Mark Twain, “What Paul Bourget Thinks of Us,” in
Collected Tales, 1891-1910,
172.
97
By 1842 railroads
Williams,
Food in the United States,
86-87.
97
fresh milk to cities from the countryside
Vileisis,
Kitchen Literacy,
38.
97
large-scale brewing of beer
Williams,
Food in the United States,
87.
97
after Gustavus Swift built a line of icehouses
Vileisis,
Kitchen Literacy,
68.
97
“Sierra ice”
Joanne Meschery,
Truckee: An Illustrated History of the Town and Its Surroundings
(Truckee, CA: Rocking Stone Press, 1978), 48.
98
How to Mix Absinthe
Lafcadio Hearn,
Lafcadio Hearn’s Creole Cook Book
(1885; Gretna, LA: Pelican Publishing, 1990), 249.
98
pathogens from newly introduced
Cutter,
Sierra Trout Guide,
15.
98
UC Davis Tahoe Research
“Lahontan Cutthroat Trout Stand Little Chance in Lake Tahoe,” UC Davis Tahoe Research Group, July 18, 2003,
www.universityofcalifornia.edu/news/article/5595
, accessed Nov. 20, 2008.
98
“purest, . . . most unadulterated”
SLC to Pamela A. Moffett and Jane Lampton Clemens, Oct. 25, 1861, Carson City, NV,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00030.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Jan. 12, 2010.
98
tomoo agai
Patrick Trotter,
Cutthroat: Native Trout of the West
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002), 159.
99
only to spawn
Ibid., 162.
100
“so villainously rapid and crooked”
Oct. 25, 1861,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00031.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Mar. 18, 2009.
101
originated along the Pacific coast
Cutter,
Sierra Trout Guide,
13.
101
Sixty-thousand-year-old fossils
Robert J. Behnke,
Trout and Salmon of North America
(New York: Free Press, 2002), 211.
101
feed on the tui-chub
Trotter,
Cutthroat,
163.
102
magnolia and polecat
Oct. 25, 1861,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00031.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Mar. 18, 2009.
102
“the meanest compound”
Twain,
Roughing It,
182.
102
“superior, in fact, to that of any other fish”
Trotter,
Cutthroat,
148.
102
particularly rich
Cutter,
Sierra Trout Guide,
15.
103
a genetic memory
Ibid., 13.
103
two hundred thousand pounds
Ibid., 15.
104
Fulton Fish Market
Merwin,
New American Trout Fishing,
9.
104
quarter million acre-feet of water a year
Trotter,
Cutthroat,
154.
104
“fish have no rights in water law”
Quoted in Behnke,
Trout and Salmon,
215.
104
“Pyramid Lake exists”
Ibid.
105
seventy thousand pounds of fish were caught
Trotter,
Cutthroat,
169-70.
105
collected in Summit Lake
Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribe Fisheries Department,
Natural Resources Report of Pyramid Lake Fisheries,
(1, no. 2) Spring 2008, 2.
105
Paiute John Skimmerhorn
Trotter,
Cutthroat,
149.
106
below subspecies level
Behnke,
Trout and Salmon,
4.
106
in 2004 over thirteen thousand fish
Craig Springer, “The Return of a Lake-Dwelling Giant,”
Endangered Species Bulletin
32, no. 1 (February 2007), 10-11.
106
“twenty years down the road”
Ibid
.
108
market fisherman Seth Green
Merwin,
New American Trout Fishing,
8.
108
Trout Pie
Susannah Carter,
The Frugal Housewife
(New York: G. & R. Waite, 1803), 141.
109
“galloping all over the premises”
Twain,
Roughing It,
155-56.
109
“the mountains seem to be”
Quoted in Stewart, “Sam Clemens,” 111.
109
during spring’s first thaws
Harold Biswell,
Prescribed Burning in California Wildlands Management
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989), 48.
109
“the Indians always kept”
Ibid.
109
seventeen hundred strikes per year
Ibid., 45.
109
“within half an hour”
Twain,
Roughing It,
156.
110

lava
men”
Sept. 18, 1861,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainprojectorg/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00029.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Jan. 12, 2010.
110
near Stateline Point, on Tahoe’s northern edge
David C. Antonucci, “Mark Twain’s Route to Lake Tahoe,”
Nevada Historical Society Quarterly
51, no. 2 (Summer 2008), 116-26.
110
favored by ponderosa pines
Biswell,
Prescribed Burning in California Wildlands Management,
33.
109
“deeply carpeted”
Twain,
Roughing It,
154.
111
“standard-bearers”
SLC to Jane Lampton Clemens, Sept. 18-21, 1861, Carson City, NV,
Mark Twain’s Letters, 1853-1866,
Mark Twain Project Online,
www.marktwainproject.org/xtf/view?docId=letters/UCCL00029.xml;style=letter;brand=mtp
, accessed Dec. 3, 2009.
111
dead and extremely dry growth
Stewart, “Sam Clemens,” 108.
111
“dense growth of manzanita”
Twain,
Roughing It,
156.
111
“he was paying me ten dollars”
Ibid., 237.
111
a long, familiar
Ibid., 81.
4. HEAVEN ON THE HALF SHELL: OYSTERS AND MUSSELS IN SAN FRANCISCO
114
thriving business in seabird eggs
Susan Casey,
The Devil’s Teeth
(New York: Owl Books, 2005), 79-85.
114
“When I was a boy”
Joseph Mitchell, “Old Mr. Flood,” in
Up in the Old Hotel and Other Stories
(story first published 1944; New York: Vintage Books, 1993), 377.
115
Oyster Omelet
Wilcox,
Buckeye Cookery,
262.
116
“I began to get tired”
Twain,
Roughing It,
376.
116
“Sir, you are a stranger to me”
Ibid., 276.
117
Laird refused to pay
Powers,
Mark Twain,
139-41.
117
“the most cordial and sociable”
Twain,
Roughing It,
396.
117
an early San Franciscan bohemia
Doris Muscatine,
Old San Francisco: The Biography of a City from Early Days to the Earthquake
(New York: Putnam’s, 1975), 171.
118
“a huge double bed”
Dan De Quille,
Golden Era,
Dec. 6, 1863.
118
“Mark and I agreed well as room-mates”
De Quille,
Golden Era,
Dec. 6, 1863.
118
dozens of restaurants
Muscatine,
Old San Francisco,
129-34.
118
197,639,000 pounds
Elinore M. Barrett, “The California Oyster Industry,” in Scripps Institution of Oceanography Library,
Fish Bulletin
123, Mar. 1, 1963, p. 6,
http://repositories.cdlib.org/sio/lib/fb.123
, accessed June 3, 2009.
119
“To a Christian who has toiled months and months in Washoe”
Twain, “In the Metropolis,” in
The Washoe Giant in San Francisco
(originally in
Virginia City Territorial Enterprise,
June 17, 1864), 74.
119
the Occidental served quails at 6:00 A.M.
Mark Twain,
Clemens of the Call: Mark Twain in San Francisco
(first appeared in
Morning Call,
Sept. 16, 1864), Edgar Marquess Branch, ed. (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1969), 64.

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