The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook
Read The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook Online
Authors: Martha Stewart Living Magazine
acknowledgments
THE RECIPES IN THIS
book represent the creativity and hard work of many people, over many years. A special thank you to our very talented editorial director of food and entertaining, Lucinda Scala Quinn, who leads the team that creates the recipes in
Martha Stewart Living,
as well as to food editor Jennifer Aaronson and deputy food editor Sarah Carey, who offered careful guidance throughout the creation of this book. Thank you also to the many other food editors, recipe testers, and kitchen assistants who have worked in the
Martha Stewart Living
test kitchens since 2001, among them Christine Albano, Sara Backhouse, John Barricelli, Tara Bench, Shira Bocar, Frances Boswell, Stephana Bottom, Monita Buchwald, Samantha Connell, Carolyn Coppersmith, Kristine Croker Fiordalis, Stephanie Fletcher, Yolanda Florez, Amy Gropp Forbes, Allison Hedges, Aida Ibarra, Heidi Johannsen, Carmen Juarez, Shelly Kaldunski, Anna Kovel, Judith Lockhart, Rachael Macchiesi, Denise Mickelsen, Claire Perez, Melissa Perry, Elizabeth Pilar, Gertrude Porter, Lori Powell, Darlene Schrack, Nicole Slaven, Susan Spungen, Susan Sugarman, Susan Testa, Laura Trace, Brittany Williams, and Avery Wittkamp.
Their food always looks as delicious as it tastes, as you can see in the photographs in this book. For creating those images, thank you to the brilliant photographers as well as
Martha Stewart Living
design director James Dunlinson and deputy creative director Ayesha Patel and their teams of art directors and stylists. Thanks also to our photo department, including Heloise Goodman, Andrea Bakacs, Joni Noe, and Alison Vanek Devine.
Producing this book required the dedication of special projects editor in chief Amy Conway, executive editor Ellen Morrissey, and assistant managing editor Robb Riedel. Heartfelt thanks to Evelyn Battaglia, who brought expertise and enthusiasm to every stage of the project and whose considerable talents are reflected throughout the book. Under the direction of art director William van Roden, associate art director Amber Blakesley created the book’s elegant, modern cover, and worked with Mary Jane Callister on an overall design that is fresh but timeless. Thank you, too, to Denise Clappi, Lori Key, Matt Papa, and Emily Burns for their help with so many details.
As always, our executive team of Gael Towey, Lauren Podlach Stanich, Margaret Roach, and Eric A. Pike lent valuable support to the project. And thanks to our colleagues at Clarkson Potter: Jenny Frost, Lauren Shakely, Doris Cooper, Jane Treuhaft, Amy Boorstein, Mark McCauslin, and Derek Gullino.
introduction
The
Martha Stewart Living
test kitchens are always exciting and inspiring. There, on the ninth floor of the Starrett-Lehigh building in Manhattan, you will find a big team of talented cooks busy at the stoves and the work stations, mixing, stirring, measuring, chopping, kneading, sautéing, tasting, and fine-tuning. Right next door in our photo studios, more food is being prepared and “styled” for the photographs being taken. And just down the hall, editors are at their computers writing recipes or debating the best way to phrase a step.
This big, bustling operation evolved from a very small start, back in 1990. But the most important things have not changed: I and all of our food editors have always shared a dedication to quality, a passion for the very best ingredients, a thirst for knowledge (and desire to share what we learn), and a sincere appreciation of the ever-changing world of food and cooking. Our food department creates many hundreds of recipes every year; this book contains more than 1,200 of our favorites culled from
Martha Stewart Living
since 2001. I hope you’ll try many of them and use them again and again, as I do. And because an avid cook can never have too many fine recipes, I recommend you look at
The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook: The Original Classics
as well. It contains more than 1,100 recipes published between 1990 and 2000. The two books together make a wonderfully comprehensive set; this one even includes an index for both volumes. You could start on page one of either book, cook every recipe, and never get bored!
pantry
STAPLES
ANCHOVIES
These tiny salt-cured fish are a staple of the cuisines of France, Spain, and Italy, where they are used to impart depth of flavor to sauces, such as salsa verde and bagna cauda, as well as to many meat, poultry, and vegetable dishes. When possible, buy anchovies that are salt-packed and sold in jars rather than those packed in oil and sold in tins. To tame their saltiness, rinse anchovies briefly under cold running water before using. Avoid overcooking, or cooking in oil that is too hot, as they will fry and harden instead of dissolving; mashing them first helps them blend quickly. Keep unopened tins at room temperature; once opened, transfer the fillets to an airtight container, cover with oil, and refrigerate for up to a month. Salt-packed anchovies have a much longer shelf life, and will keep for up to a year at room temperature (even after opening).
BEANS
Black beans, cannellini beans, and chickpeas are versatile—add them to salads or combine them with rice or pasta for hearty side dishes or meatless main courses. Before using, rinse canned beans under cold running water and allow them to drain thoroughly. Once opened, transfer beans to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to a week.
CANNED MILK (EVAPORATED MILK AND SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK)
Both products are made by removing about half the water from fresh milk, but sweetened condensed milk has sugar added while evaporated milk does not. They are not interchangeable. Evaporated milk lends creaminess to sauces and desserts; it can be mixed with an equal amount of water and used in place of fresh milk in a pinch. Sweetened condensed milk has a very sweet, distinctive flavor, and is used in pies, candies, and other desserts; it is the only milk used in dulce de leche, a creamy Spanish sauce with a caramel flavor, and one of three milks in Pastel Tres Leches, a classic Mexican cake. Canned milk can be kept in the pantry for months; once opened, the milk should be refrigerated in an airtight container and used within several days.
CANNED TOMATOES
You can find tomatoes in many forms (diced, crushed, seasoned, and so on), but whole tomatoes (in juice, not puree) are the most versatile. The tomatoes will break down over long, slow cooking, making them ideal for stews, braises, and meat sauces. They can also be cut with kitchen scissors or crushed with your hands for use in quick-cooking sauces and dishes or pureed for a smooth consistency (instead of using canned tomato sauce).
CANNED TUNA
Oil-packed tuna from Italy, particularly Sicily, has the best flavor. The cans will keep, unopened, for up to a year; after opening, transfer the tuna to a tightly sealed container and use within a few days.
CAPERS
Capers are the salt-processed, unopened flower buds of a trailing shrub that thrives in the arid climate along the shores of the Mediterranean. Tangy and pungent, with a slight astringency, capers are an essential ingredient in many well-known dishes such as caponata, pasta puttanesca, and salad Niçoise, as well as classic sauces such as rémoulade. Nonpareils, the tiniest capers, are the most expensive but have the most delicate flavor. Capers are either packed in brine or salt; since they are rinsed and drained before using, the salt-packed type actually have a less salty taste. Capers keep indefinitely in unopened jars. Once opened, they are best used within a year; refrigerate brine-packed capers and keep salt-packed capers at room temperature (in a well-sealed jar).
CHUTNEYS
Chutneys, a broad category of relishes with roots in India, often have a chunky texture and can be made with chiles, herbs, spices, fruits, and vegetables (mango is the most widely known, but tomato, cranberry, and others are also common). Pair them with grilled meats or cheeses, add to chicken salad, or blend with mayonnaise for a flavorful sandwich spread. Chutneys should be refrigerated and used within a few months after opening.
COCONUT MILK
Canned coconut milk, made from coconut meat that is steeped in boiling water and then strained to form a creamy liquid, is widely used in Eastern and Caribbean cooking. It should not be confused with coconut cream, which is made the same way but with less water, or with sweetened cream of coconut, generally used to make blended cocktails. Before opening, shake the can to mix the coconut milk thoroughly. Unopened cans will keep for up to eighteen months; transfer the contents of opened cans to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to a week.
COUSCOUS
A staple of North African cuisine, couscous is a tiny pasta made from hard-wheat flour (durum) or precooked semolina. The larger pearls of Israeli couscous are lightly oven-dried, giving them a faintly golden color and toasted flavor (it is often labeled “toasted”). The large pearls also have a more toothsome texture. Keep couscous in the original container until opened, then store it in an airtight container for up to a year.
DIJON MUSTARD
Dijon is a general term for a French-style mustard, which is prized for its clean, sharp flavor. It’s made from brown or black mustard seeds, white wine, must (unfermented grape juice), and seasonings. It can be used on sandwiches and in sauces, vinaigrettes, and other salad dressings.
DRIED HERBS AND SPICES
Most spices will lose their potency after about a year, but their flavor will deteriorate faster if stored improperly. Keep them in airtight containers, away from heat or direct sunlight; label them with the date of purchase so you’ll know when it’s time to replenish. For the freshest flavor, buy whole spices when possible and then grind just what you need in a spice or coffee grinder (or with a mortar and pestle).
DRIED PASTA
Stock an assortment of shapes for different sauces, such as spaghetti, bucatini, and perciatelli for tomato sauces; linguine for clam sauce; capellini for light, delicate sauces (or no sauce at all); penne, rigatoni, and pappardelle for meaty ragus; and fusilli, farfalle, and fettucine for cream sauces. Whole-wheat pastas offer more nutritional benefits (and a slightly chewier texture). Dried pasta can be stored in its original package until opened, then transferred to airtight containers; for best results, use within a year.
GRAINS
Except as noted, the following items can be stored in the pantry for up to one year; transfer to airtight containers after opening.
barley
Of the various types of barley available, pearl barley is the easiest to find and to use. It comes in three sizes: coarse, medium, and fine. Barley adds substance and flavor to soups (beef barley is a classic), stews, pilafs, and other side dishes. Its earthy flavor pairs well with mushrooms, and is enhanced by a brief toasting before cooking in water or broth.
cornmeal
Cornmeal is made from dried corn kernels that are steel-ground, a process by which the hull and germ of the kernel are removed. Cornmeal is typically white or yellow, depending on the variety of corn used; the taste is virtually the same. It is sold in three varieties: fine (also known as corn flour), medium (the most common), and coarse. Fine and medium cornmeal are used frequently in baking; coarse cornmeal is used to make polenta. Stone-ground cornmeal, a coarser relative of cornmeal, is water-ground; this process results in the meal retaining some of the hull and germ, giving foods a deeper flavor and rougher texture. Store stone-ground cornmeal in the freezer for up to a year.
lentils
These tiny, round legumes grow in small pods. When ripe, the pods are picked, dried, and smashed to release the seeds, which are then dried further and left whole or split. The most common form is brown, but they are also available in green (also called French, or
lentilles de Puy
) as well as red, black, and yellow (used primarily in Indian cooking). Because they lose moisture over time, older lentils will take longer to cook than fresher ones. Before using, sort through lentils to remove any shriveled ones and small stones and twigs, and then rinse well.
oats
Rolled oats, also called old-fashioned oats, are whole oats that have been steamed and flattened to make them more tender; they cook in about 15 minutes. Quick-cooking oats have been cut into smaller pieces before steaming and then rolled even thinner; they cook in about 5 minutes. It is generally acceptable to substitute one for the other in most recipes, but never substitute instant oatmeal. Steel-cut oats or Irish oatmeal, which are not rolled, take longer to cook, but have a pleasantly chewy texture.
HOISIN SAUCE
Although ingredients vary by brand, this thick, dark brown sauce is generally made with soybeans, chiles, and spices. It is widely used in Chinese cooking as a condiment as well as in marinades, glazes, sauces, and other dishes. Bottled hoisin will keep almost indefinitely in the refrigerator.
NUTS AND DRIED FRUIT
These staples can be used in a wide array of dishes and cooking, both sweet and savory, so stock at least a few of the following: walnut and pecan halves, almonds (whole and sliced), hazelnuts, raisins (dark and golden), currants, dates, apricots, and figs. Nuts can turn rancid easily, so store them in the freezer for up to six months. Dried fruit can be kept at room temperature for up to a year; keep them well sealed to preserve freshness and prevent stickiness.
OILS
Store vegetable oils in their original bottles, in a cool, dark place, for up to six months. Nut oils should be refrigerated and used within three months. There are three types to keep in your pantry:
neutral-tasting oils
These flavorless oils are good to use when you don’t want to affect the taste of a dish. They also have high smoke points (the temperature at which the oil will cause foods to burn), making them ideal for sautéing, frying, and other high-temperature cooking. Good choices include canola oil, corn oil, peanut oil, and vegetable oil.
nut and seed oils
Flavorful nut oils, such as walnut and hazelnut, are generally not used in cooking, but as condiments. Drizzle them onto salads, vegetables, and rice and pasta dishes. There are two basic types of sesame oil to look for: regular (light-colored) and toasted (dark). Regular sesame oil, which has a mild nutty taste and a high smoke point, is the most versatile and is more commonly used in cooking, especially frying. Toasted sesame oil has a richer, more assertive flavor; it is used sparingly in marinades and salad dressings, and can be drizzled over cooked dishes just before serving. It can also be combined with a neutral vegetable oil for stir-frying.
olive oils
These oils can be used to impart flavor as well as for cooking. Extra-virgin olive oil is perfect for lower-temperature sautéing, for salads and marinades, and for drizzling over pasta and rice dishes. Light and extra-light olive oils have been cut with vegetable oils so they are light in flavor but not in fat. Grapeseed oil is a good alternative to olive oil; with its mildly nutty flavor, it can be used in salad dressings and marinades, while its high smoke point makes it perfect for all types of cooking.
ORZO
Orzo
means “barley” in Italian, but it’s actually a type of pasta. It looks like rice and makes a fine substitute as a side or in salads and soups. Toasting orzo before cooking will give it a deeper flavor.
PANTRY VEGETABLES
These essential ingredients are part of any well-stocked kitchen, and are sturdy enough to keep in a cupboard or other cool, dark, dry spot, but not the refrigerator. Garlic, onions, shallots, and potatoes will generally keep for about a month. Dried mushrooms, such as porcini or shiitake, can be kept in a well-sealed container for several months.
PEPPERCORNS
There are three basic types of peppercorns: black, white, and green. The black kind is picked when the berry is slightly underripe, then dried until black and shriveled; it has a slightly hot flavor. The green type is also picked when underripe and then either preserved in brine or sold dried; it is tart, slightly fruity, and especially good in chutneys and mustards. The white variety is a fully ripened berry that has had its skin removed before being dried; it is slightly milder tasting than black pepper and is often used instead of black pepper to preserve the appearance of a light-colored dish. The pink peppercorn is not a peppercorn at all, but a dried berry from the Baies rose plant; it is mild and slightly sweet. Peppercorns are available whole, cracked, or ground. For the freshest flavor, buy them whole and then grind just what you need at a time. Like all spices, peppercorns should be stored in tightly sealed containers, away from heat or light.