The Essential James Beard Cookbook (57 page)

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Authors: James Beard

BOOK: The Essential James Beard Cookbook

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KASHA

(BUCKWHEAT GROATS)

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Every once in a while I get a craving for kasha. The crunchiness of the groats makes a nice contrast to foods with a very soft texture, like chicken breasts in a creamy sauce.

1 cup buckwheat groats (kasha)

1 large egg, beaten

2 cups boiling
Beef Stock
or use canned beef stock

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter or rendered chicken fat

Kosher salt

Put the buckwheat groats in a preheated skillet over medium heat. Add the egg and stir vigorously over high heat until each grain is separate. Add the stock and salt to taste. Cover the pan, lower the heat, and steam the groats for 30 minutes. Stir in the butter.

VARIATIONS

KASHA WITH MUSHROOMS:
Mix ½ cup sautéed sliced mushrooms into the cooked kasha.

KASHA WITH SAUTÉED GIBLETS:
Mix ½ cup sautéed chopped chicken gizzards, hearts, and livers into the cooked kasha.

LENTIL SALAD

MAKES 10 SERVINGS FOR A BUFFET

Editor: When you need a side dish for a buffet where ham is the star attraction, serve this hearty salad.

For the Lentils

2 to 3 pounds brown lentils, soaked overnight in cold water to cover, drained

1 medium yellow onion, stuck with 2 whole cloves

1 tablespoon kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

1 bay leaf

1 cup olive oil

For the Salad

1 cup crisply cooked and crumbled bacon

¾ cup finely chopped yellow onion

½ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon Tabasco

Olive oil, as needed

2 thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced, for garnish

To prepare the lentils: Put the drained lentils in a large saucepan and add fresh water to cover. Add the onion stuck with cloves, salt, garlic, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until just tender. Drain and discard the onion, garlic, and bay leaf. Transfer the lentils to a large bowl, and add the oil while the lentils are still hot. Let cool.

To assemble the salad: Add the bacon, chopped onion, parsley, and garlic to the cooled lentils and toss well. Stir in the vinegar, pepper, and Tabasco, and more oil, if needed. This salad improves if it is allowed to stand for an hour or so. Garnish with the scallions and more chopped parsley before serving.

BRETON BEANS

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This is the classic accompaniment to roast
gigot
, or leg of lamb, prepared in the Breton style. When serving the beans with roast lamb, you may, if you like, stir 1 or 2 tablespoons of the pan juices from the roast into them. One pound of dried beans equals 6 cups cooked.

1 pound (2 cups) dried white beans, preferably Great Northern

1 medium yellow onion, stuck with 2 whole cloves

2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup tomato purée

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Put the beans in a deep saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil; boil 2 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and let the beans cool, covered, in the cooking water for 1 hour. Don’t let the beans sit in the liquid for longer than 1 hour or they will become too soft. Cook them soon after they have cooled.

After 1 hour, if needed, add some more cold water to cover, the onion, garlic, bay leaf, and 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat until the liquid is simmering; cover the pan and simmer for 45 minutes. Then add the tomato purée (don’t add it until the beans have had this cooking time, as the acidity of the tomato may harden them). Continue to cook until just tender, another 20 to 30 minutes, checking for tenderness now and then. The beans should be tender when bitten, but not soft, mushy, or broken. During the cooking, check the pan to see that the liquid is simmering, not boiling, as this would break up the beans. If they seem to be getting too dry, add a little more water.

When the beans are cooked, taste them, add more salt if needed, and pepper to taste. Drain the beans and discard the onion and bay leaf. Just before serving, garnish them with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

VARIATION

WHITE BEAN SALAD:
Follow the directions for cooking the beans, but do not add the tomato purée. Drain and cool. Put the beans in a bowl with 1 cup finely chopped scallions (green and white parts), and ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley. Add 1 cup
Basic Vinaigrette Sauce
and toss well. Allow to stand 1 to 2 hours before serving to mellow the flavors. If desired, the salad may be garnished with rings of thinly sliced red onion and additional chopped parsley.

NEVADA CHILI BEANS

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This spicy Southwestern dish is made with the pale pink, brown-speckled pinto beans common to the Western states and Mexico (they were dubbed “pinto,” Spanish for “paint,” because of the coloring). Pinto beans grow in a very dry climate and so they take longer to cook than some of the other dried legumes. They may be substituted in bean casseroles in place of white beans or red kidney beans. Serve with old-fashioned soda crackers or tortillas and beer.

1 pound (2 cups) dried pinto beans

¼ pound salt pork, rind removed, cut in small pieces

2 cups chopped yellow onion

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 cups tomato purée

3 tablespoons chili powder

½ teaspoon dried oregano

A healthy pinch of ground cumin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the beans in a large saucepan, cover with water, bring to a boil, boil 2 minutes, remove from the heat, and let stand, covered, for 1 hour. Add more water, if needed. Return to the heat and simmer very slowly until they are not quite cooked, still a bit bitey, 1 to 1½ hours.

Cook the salt pork in a large skillet until the fat is rendered and the pork is crisp. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until soft. Add the tomato purée, chili powder, oregano, and cumin. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Add the beans with their liquid, reduce the heat, and simmer for 45 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding more chili powder or salt if you want it spicier or saltier.

VARIATION

COWPUNCHER BEANS:
Add 1 pound cooked and diced pork and 1 pound cooked and diced beef to the finished dish. [
Editor: This is especially good made with leftover barbecued meats.
]

WHITE BEANS WITH COGNAC

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Editor: Serve this as an accompaniment to roast pork or lamb. Or augment with ham and sausages for a main course.

For the Beans

1 pound (2 cups) dried white beans (pea, navy, or Great Northern)

1 medium yellow onion, stuck with 2 whole cloves

1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole

1 sprig fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

2 cups tomato purée

¹⁄
₃cup Cognac

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons kosher salt

To prepare the beans: Put the beans in a saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and cook 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 1 hour. Add the clove-studded onion, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until tender, about 2 hours. Strain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Discard the onion, bay leaf, and thyme sprig (the garlic will have disintegrated).

Melt the butter in a large skillet and sauté the chopped onion until soft. Add the reserved cooking liquid, tomato purée, Cognac, parsley, and salt. Simmer 30 minutes, then mix with the beans, correct the seasoning, and reheat over low heat in a heatproof casserole suitable for serving.

VARIATION

WHITE BEANS WITH HAM AND SAUSAGE:
Serve this as a hearty main dish. Add 1 cup diced cooked ham and 1 pound cooked sausages to the beans and sauce. Correct the seasoning. Bake in a casserole in a preheated 325°F oven until just bubbling. [
Editor: Use smoked, fully cooked sausages, such as kielbasa, andouille, knackwurst, or bockwurst, either left whole or cut into thick slices.
]