Authors: Nick Thorpe
Copyright © 2013 Nick Thorpe
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
The Danube : a journey upriver from the Black Sea to the Black Forest / Nick Thorpe.
ISBN 978–0–300–18165–4 (cl : alk. paper)
1. Danube River Valley—Description and travel. 2. Danube River Valley—History, Local. 3. Danube River Valley—Social life and customs. 4. Thorpe, Nick—Travel—Danube River Valley. I. Title.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
This book is for Andrea
Illustrations and Maps
Mile Zero, the lighthouse at Sulina
Sulina with Adrian Oprisan
In the heart of the Danube delta
Simion outside his home in Sulina
Statue of the Glykon, Constanța
Statue of Pontus, Constanța
The Kneeling Oak, Karaorman
Alexander's grandmother, Karaorman
The Black Sea from the mouth of the Danube near Sfantu Georghe
Recep Lupu's wife and mother-in-law, Babadag
Gypsy girl, Babadag
Mitya Alexi, Ghindărești
Nikita Ivan, Ghindărești
Momi Kolev and a camel
Dark skies over Nikopol
Danube Iron Gates from the water
Danube dawn at Eselnita
The water tower, Vukovar
Wetlands at Kopački Rit
Depiction of the Red Army crossing the Danube in 1945
Snails after the floodwaters fell, Kopački Rit
Danube floods in Budapest, 2013
The Danube bend in Hungary from the
At the helm of the
Hermann Spannraft at the wheel of the cable ferry
Josef Fischer, Rossatz, Austria
The Atsaeva family, Grein, Austria
The cable-ferry at Ottensheim
The Inn and the Danube meet at Passau
The tailor of Ulm
The youth of Ulm
Statue of Mother Baar showing the young Danube the way to the Black Sea
1 Mile or Kilometre Zero, from which the length of the Danube is measured: the lighthouse at Sulina.
2 Leaving Sulina with Adrian Oprisan, towards Crisan and Karaorman.
3 In the heart of the Danube delta, on the way to harvest reeds near Crisan – from Adrian Oprisan's boat.
4 Aunty Nicolina was not at home, but Uncle Simion was. ‘I never could stand fish.’ Outside their house in Sulina.
5 The Glykon in the National History and Archaeology Museum at Constanța: the head of a lamb, the ears of a man, body of a serpent, and the tail of a lion – like the Danube.
6 Pontus, the god of the Black Sea, rising out of the seaweed, clasping the rudder of a ship. From the Museum at Constanța.