The Cheese Board (9 page)

Tuck the strand ends underneath the center of the loaf (
fig. D
).

Gently rotate the loaf in a circular motion with cupped hands to tighten the braid. The finished shape should look like a turban (
fig. E
).

After the bread has been shaped and placed in a basket or on a baking sheet, it is covered and returned to a warm, draft-free place to continue rising. This step, which is called
proofing,
is critical for the development of the bread’s architecture. Some breads require a quick second rise, while others like sourdoughs require a more leisurely rise. All of our recipes give a suggested proofing time and tell you what to look for in determining whether a loaf is ready to be baked. It is not always easy to tell if loaves have completed proofing. While most yeasted loaves become air-filled and rounded, rye breads and stollens move very slowly due to their heavier composition. The best test of when dough is ready to be baked is to press your finger into the top of the loaf; if an impression remains, the dough is ready. In reviewing the suggested proofing time, you should factor in the time it takes to preheat the oven since you don’t want to wait an additional 15 minutes to put the bread in the oven. For example, if the recommended proofing time is 1 hour, turn the oven on after 45 minutes, or earlier if you are using a
baking stone
.

To create a shiny brown crust on a challah or to make a Chocolate Thing glisten, you will need to brush the outside of the proofed loaf with egg wash. Egg wash is made by whisking an egg until it is a thin and golden liquid with a uniform, velvety texture. Whisking the mixture long enough is important, as it makes the application of the egg wash much easier. Brush the tops and the sides of each roll or loaf to ensure that the whole outside will be shiny. If you don’t have an egg, milk is a passable substitute.

Before baking, most breads require a cut into the surface to allow the bread to expand evenly during the baking period. Without the slashes, the bread will burst out wherever it chooses rather than in a controlled place. We use a single-edged
razor blade
for the job.

The slashes are another opportunity for a baker’s artistic expression. Experiment with designs that you like, using the gallery below as a guide. At the store, we are always studying the way various slashes work. We like
them to open generously, creating a contrast in texture and color. The quality of the slash will affect the final appearance of the bread, so take care with the execution. Visualize your design and then, with your body centered in front of the loaf and with the razor blade at a 45-degree angle to the surface of the bread, make slash marks in the bread. Don’t be afraid to use a firm hand and a forceful wrist. Your motion should be swift and clean.

Three Dashes

Feather

Baguette

Tree

Crosshatch

Bull’s-Eye

Spiral

Six-Pointed Star

At last you have arrived at the final step in bread making (besides eating). Adjust the oven racks as instructed in the recipe. Preheat the oven well before baking; in most ovens this is at least 15 minutes prior to baking. (If you are using a
baking stone
, the oven should be preheated for 45 minutes with the baking stone inside;.) The initial boost of heat is critical to the outcome of a light, lofty scone or muffin. Heat is also necessary for breads to develop good height, rich color, and open slashes. Some breads (like baguettes) require you to crank up your oven to 450°F, while others (like slow-baking stollens) bake at the low temperature of 325°F. Buy an oven thermometer to ensure the accuracy of your oven.