In my early days of cooking
I had a problem with making appetizers because all I really wanted to eat was the main event. I loved to order a meal of appetizers in restaurants, but I felt like they just didn’t matter at home. Who makes themselves appetizers? Then friends started coming over for informal hangouts and I had to build a lineup of recipes that worked for these occasions. I had breakfast and dinner down, but what about small bites?
In the beginning I’d just make smaller versions of entrées or reinvent leftovers. Truly anything on a crostini feels like an appetizer, if you ask me. I’m talking meatloaf crumbled on crostini with a scoop of tomato sauce, or even vegetable sides puréed and smeared on crusty bread with a drizzle of olive oil. Same with a sandwich—I’d put heavenly leftovers between two pieces of bread and call it a day. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I began to really embrace the idea of creating dishes specifically to start the meal, pass around for a dinner party, or feed lunchtime guests. These are just some of my small bites; make a few and you have a meal.
Tomato and Pesto Tart
Blackened Catfish Sandwiches with Spicy Tartar Sauce
blackened catfish sandwiches
WITH SPICY TARTAR SAUCE
i
had been hosting my TV show
Cooking for Real
for three years, feeling pretty good about my career, when I went to Elloree, South Carolina, for a family reunion on my dad’s side. Well, family always keeps you grounded and I was there for only five minutes when a distant relative came right up to me and said, “Where’s the catfish?” He wanted to know why I hadn’t cooked catfish on my show yet. He thought maybe I didn’t know how to make it. I had to explain that I did know and I promised to put it on the show for the next season. So, for my family and you, here is the ultimate blackened catfish sandwich. This reminds me of my Detroit radio buddy, Bushman. We had one of these a couple of times a week together after workouts.
MAKES 4
FOR THE CATFISH
1 teaspoon Hungarian or hot paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon dried thyme
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 nice-sized catfish fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each
FOR THE SPICY TARTAR SAUCE
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
2 teaspoons hot sauce (I like Frank’s Red Hot)
2 tablespoons dill relish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SANDWICHES
4 square loaves soft ciabatta bread (or 2 long ones, cut in half)
½ head iceberg lettuce, shredded into thin ribbons
1 Roma tomato, sliced
1 lemon, cut into wedges
1
Season the catfish.
In a small bowl, mix the paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, thyme, lemon zest, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Coat each piece of fish on both sides and allow to rest at room temperature at least 20 minutes.
2
Cook the fish.
In a seasoned cast-iron pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. Gently add the fillets to the pan, laying them down away from you so there is less splatter. Cook until a peek beneath reveals a darkened crust, about 4 minutes. Flip and fry on the other side until cooked through, about 3 minutes more. Remove from the heat and rest at least 5 minutes.
3
Make the spicy tartar sauce.
In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, horseradish, hot sauce, dill relish, a tiny pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and season with more salt, if needed.
4
Assemble the sandwiches.
Cut each piece of fish in half crosswise. Split the bread in half lengthwise. Slather the bottom and top of each piece of bread with the tartar sauce. Layer each sandwich with lettuce and tomato, then top with fish. Spritz the fish with a squeeze of lemon. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Smokey Crab-A-Mole
smokey crab-a-mole
t
his dip feeds a crowd; perfect for a big game day. I created it for a “Guac-Off” contest at Sirius/XM radio with hosts Covino and Rich, and it was the winner! The addition of crab sealed the deal, with my secret ingredient, liquid smoke. It is water infused with actual smoke that adds hickory or mesquite flavor. I keep both flavors in my kitchen, and for this recipe, mesquite is what really makes this guac rock.
MAKES 13 CUPS
2 poblano peppers, tops removed and seeded
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 ripe avocados, halved and flesh removed
¾ cup finely chopped red onion
1 bunch fresh cilantro (about 3 ounces), leaves only, chopped
¼ cup fresh lime juice
1½ cups Mexican crema
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons Hungarian or hot paprika
2 teaspoons liquid smoke (mesquite or hickory)
2 tablespoons hot sauce (I like Frank’s Red Hot)
8 to 10 pickled jalapeño slices, or one whole pickled jalapeño, finely chopped
¼ cup pickled jalapeño juice
1 pound lump crabmeat, cleaned of all shells and debris
Tortilla chips, to serve
1
Roast the peppers.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Rub each poblano pepper with olive oil and place on a baking sheet. Roast until charred on one side, then flip. Do this until all sides are charred, 15 to 18 minutes total. Remove and immediately place on a plate in the refrigerator or freezer until cooled to loosen the thin skin. Once cooled, remove and discard the blistered skin and finely chop the flesh. Put in a large bowl and season with a pinch of salt and a grind of pepper.
2
Mix the guacamole.
To the bowl with the peppers, add the avocados, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, crema, cumin, paprika, liquid smoke, hot sauce, pickled jalapeños, and jalapeño juice. Mash vigorously with a potato masher until smooth. Fold in the crab, then taste and season with a nice pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Serve with tortilla chips.
tips!
When adding small amounts of ingredients like seasonings to a filled bowl, as in this recipe, try to sprinkle them from a higher level than normal so the flavors distribute and blend easily once combined.
•
The tried and true way to store guacamole so it doesn’t oxidize and turn brown is to cut a sheet of plastic wrap larger than the storage container, and gently press the plastic directly on top of the dip, making sure it touches and flattens the entire top surface. Cover that with a lid and the guacamole will maintain its green color.
•
This makes a great wrap with lots of shredded crisp romaine lettuce. The avocado won’t brown if you close up the wrap nice and tight with plastic wrap. A perfect way to make lunch the night before.
Maple Bacon and Chicken Quesadillas
maple bacon
and chicken quesadillas
i
will make quesadillas out of anything and use them to eat up leftovers, but when I have the chance, I pay close attention to the balance. The only requirement is melting cheese to hold the tortillas together like glue. Every holiday season in New York City, Union Square is packed with vendors selling ornaments, gifts, and food. A crepe stand there makes this simple but rewarding flavor combination of bacon and cheese, served with a drizzle of maple syrup. I love making crepes, but in a pinch a quesadilla does the trick. This recipe hits so many marks—it’s sweet, savory, spicy, smoky, tangy, and gooey, and the toasted tortilla becomes the last needed texture note, crunchy.
MAKES 2
FOR THE CHICKEN
½ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons liquid smoke
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE BACON
8 strips bacon, cut into 1-inch sections
¼ cup grade A maple syrup
½ cup finely chopped red onion
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE QUESADILLAS
8 ounces shredded Cheddar cheese
8 ounces shredded Monterey Jack cheese
Four 10-inch flour tortillas
1
Marinate the chicken.
Place the chicken, paprika, oregano, liquid smoke, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil in a resealable plastic bag with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Rest for 2 hours at room temperature, tossing the bag a bit halfway through.
2
Grill the chicken.
Heat a seasoned grill or grill pan to medium-high. Remove the chicken from the plastic bag and shake off the excess marinating liquid. Place the chicken on the grill, smooth side down. Cook on one side until the chicken releases easily from the grill without sticking and has grill marks, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip, then cook 3 to 4 minutes more or until juices run clear. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest at least 15 minutes before roughly chopping.
3
Cook the bacon.
Combine the bacon, syrup, onion, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper in a skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until all the fat is rendered and the bacon is cooked and sticky, 6 to 8 minutes.