Ready for Dessert (25 page)

STORAGE:
The baked custards will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator. Sprinkle them with sugar and caramelize the surfaces just before serving.

VARIATION:
You can replace 1½ cups (375 ml) of the heavy cream with half-and-half to lighten the custard, if you wish. If you don’t have a kitchen torch, caramelize ½ cup (100 g) of sugar, following the instructions for making dry caramel in
Caramelization Guidelines
. Pour the hot caramel over the top of each custard, swirling it very carefully to get as thin a layer of caramel as possible, then let it harden.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

I think there are two types of people in this world: the lemon people and the chocolate people. This recipe is for the lemon people. But if you want to try to please both, you could add a scant ½ cup white chocolate chips to the soufflé base when folding in the egg whites.

3 tablespoons (25 g) all-purpose flour

⅓ cup (65 g) plus 1½ tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling

Pinch of salt

⅔ cup (160 ml) whole milk

4 large eggs, separated

2 tablespoons (1 ounce/30 g) unsalted or salted butter

Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic

¼ cup (30 g)
Soft-Candied Citrus Peel
made with lemons, chopped

3½ tablespoons (50 ml) plus 1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter six 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins or soufflé molds. Pour some sugar into each and tilt the ramekin to coat the sides; gently tap out any excess. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet.

To make the soufflé base, in a medium saucepan, whisk together the flour, the ⅓ cup (65 g) sugar, and the salt. Whisk in about one-third of the milk to make a smooth paste, then whisk in the rest of the milk. Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened to the consistency of thin yogurt, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the egg yolks and butter. Return to the heat and cook until the mixture just begins to boil and a few bubbles pop on the surface. Transfer to a bowl that holds at least 4 quarts (4 liters). Stir in the fresh and candied lemon zest and let cool for 15 minutes. Stir in the 3½ tablespoons (50 ml) lemon juice.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the remaining 1½ tablespoons sugar, and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.

Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the soufflé base, then gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them. A few streaks of egg whites are preferable to an overfolded and deflated soufflé mixture.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins. Sprinkle each with a light, even dusting of sugar and ¼ teaspoon lemon juice. Bake until the tops are light brown and the soufflés quiver when gently nudged, about 10 minutes.

Serve the soufflés right away.

SERVING:
The soufflés are great served just as they are, but, if you like, pass a bowl of
Raspberry Sauce
or
Blackberry Sauce
at the table.

STORAGE:
You can prepare and refrigerate the soufflé base up to 1 day in advance, then whip and fold in the egg whites when you are ready to bake. The soufflé mixture, once divided among the ramekins, can stand at room temperature for up to 1 hour before baking.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

These light, lean soufflés get their lively flavor from the intensity of readily available dried apricots, so this dessert offers the added bonus that it can be made all year. It’s imperative to use the highly flavorful dried apricots from California rather than imported varieties, which are bland and uninspiring. You won’t be disappointed.

2½ ounces (70 g) California dried apricots halves (about 15), snipped in half

½ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

3 tablespoons (45 g) plus 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar, plus more for sprinkling

1 large egg yolk

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of salt

Add the apricot pieces and white wine to a small saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the saucepan, then drop in the pod. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the apricots begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand until the apricots are tender, about 45 minutes.

Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter four 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins or soufflé molds. Pour some sugar into each and tilt the ramekin to coat the sides; gently tap out any excess. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet.

Remove the
vanilla bean
from the saucepan (it can be rinsed, dried, and used for another purpose). In a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, process the apricots and their soaking liquid, along with 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar and the egg yolk until smooth. Transfer the purée to a medium bowl.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk together the egg whites and salt on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar, and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.

Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the apricot purée, then gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them. A few streaks of egg whites are preferable to an overfolded and deflated soufflé mixture.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins (don’t worry if the mixture rises a little above the rims), then sprinkle with a light, even dusting of sugar. Bake until the tops are browned and the soufflés quiver softly when gently nudged, about 9 minutes.

Serve the soufflés right away.

SERVING:
Pass a pitcher of
Raspberry Sauce
,
crème anglaise
or
White Chocolate Sauce
at the table for pouring into the soufflés.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I don’t think I have a bright future as a food stylist. For my first book, Michael, the photographer, insisted that I make and style all the food, even though I had no experience food styling. When it came time to shoot soufflés, I panicked and asked a real stylist for tips on how to keep them aloft while the camera clicked away. He suggested adding yeast to them, which sounded like it might work, so I gave it a try. But when I opened the oven door to pull out the first batch, they’d risen way high and arched over, looking like custardy Slinkys.

So I went back to making soufflés a few at a time the way I knew best—without yeast—and ran them from the oven to the set to be photographed. I breathed a sigh of relief each time the photographer was able to capture a few shots before the soufflés’ inevitable descent. As soon as they started falling, we dove in and quickly polished them off before the next take.

Later, when we looked at the proofs, we noticed my face clearly reflected in the spoon resting alongside the soufflés, which was pretty amusing—and completely unprofessional. Although my future as a stylist was in question, no one in the studio doubted my ability to make fantastic, if not long-lasting, soufflés.

CARAMEL PASTRY CREAM

½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar

1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

3 tablespoons (25 g) all-purpose flour

3 large egg yolks

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

SOUFFLÉS

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

2 ounces (60 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into ½-inch (1.5-cm) chunks or ½ cup (80 g) chocolate chips

Powdered sugar, for dusting

To make the pastry cream, spread the ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat without stirring until the sugar begins to melt around the edges. Using a heatproof utensil, slowly drag the liquified sugar to the center and stir gently until all the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Remove from the heat and gradually stir in the milk. The caramel will bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside. If the caramel seizes into a hardened mass, whisk the mixture over low heat until most of the caramel is dissolved. Don’t worry about any small chunks; they’ll dissolve later.

Sift the flour into the caramel mixture, then whisk to break up any lumps. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually whisk in a small amount of the hot thickened caramel mixture. Scrape the yolk mixture into the saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan, and cook until thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise. Press the pastry cream through a mesh strainer set over a large bowl, then whisk in the vanilla and salt. Measure out ½ cup (125 g) of the pastry cream and reserve it in a large bowl. Let cool completely. Cover remaining pastry cream, refrigerate, and reserve for another use.

To make the soufflés, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter four 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins or soufflé molds. Pour some granulated sugar into each and tilt the ramekin to coat the sides; gently tap out any excess. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the 2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar, and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.

Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the reserved pastry cream, then gently fold in the chocolate chunks or chips. Fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them. A few streaks of egg whites are preferable to an overfolded and deflated soufflé mixture.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, filling them just to the rims, then sprinkle with a generous dusting of granulated sugar. Run your thumb around inner edge of each ramekin, through the soufflé mixture, making a shallow, even channel as you go. This will allow the soufflés to bake up with nice crowns. Bake until the tops are browned and the soufflés quiver softly when gently nudged, about 9 minutes.

Serve the soufflés right away dusted with powdered sugar.

SERVING:
Quickly split open at the table, the soufflés are great with very cold
crème anglaise
poured into them, or with a scoop of
Vanilla Ice Cream
or
Chocolate Gelato
melting in the center.

STORAGE:
The caramel pastry cream can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated.

VARIATION:
In lieu of topping each soufflé with powdered sugar before serving, scatter a few granules of good sea salt, such as
fleur de sel,
over the top of each soufflé before baking. The delicate flakes add a whisper of salty crunch to contrast against the warm caramel and melting chunks of chocolate.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sweet, creamy mashed banana pulp is an ideal soufflé base, but if you think bananas are just too humble to be turned into an elegant dessert worthy of serving to guests, try these simple soufflés spruced up with some warm chocolate sauce passed alongside. Be sure the bananas that you use are really ripe—the skins of yellow bananas (as opposed to red ones that are less common) should be covered with black speckles and their texture should be soft.

2 medium very ripe bananas, mashed

2 teaspoons rum

½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup (125 ml)
pastry cream

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar, plus more for sprinkling

Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter four 4-ounce (125-ml) ramekins or soufflé molds. Pour some sugar into each and tilt the ramekin to coat the sides; gently tap out any excess. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet.

To make the soufflé base, in a large bowl, thoroughly mix together the mashed bananas, rum, lemon juice, and pastry cream.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk together the egg whites and salt on low speed until frothy. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the 2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar, and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.

Fold one-quarter of the whipped egg whites into the soufflé base, then gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them. A few streaks of egg whites are preferable to an overfolded and deflated soufflé mixture.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, filling each to just below the rim, then sprinkle with a light, even dusting of sugar. Bake until the tops are nicely browned and the soufflés quiver softly when gently nudged, about 10 minutes.

Serve the soufflés right away.

SERVING:
Pass a pitcher of
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
or
Raspberry Sauce
at the table for pouring into the soufflés.