Nuts in the Kitchen (24 page)

Poppy Seed Dressing

Makes about
¹
/
₃
cup (80 ml)

This is a wonderful sauce for vegetables, for fish, even for meat straight off the grill. I also like to serve it as a dipping sauce for fresh bread.

1.
Place the lemon juice in a small bowl along with the zest, a pinch of salt, and the poppy seeds. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified. Taste for seasoning. This will keep in an airtight glass container in the refrigerator for about 4 days. Just remember to take it out about 30 minutes before you plan to use it, as it’s best served at room temperature.

Almond Milk

Makes about 3 cups (750 ml)

Almond milk is so delicate, so pure, so lightly creamy that it almost defies description. I make it primarily so that I can make blancmange (Chapter Desserts), though almond milk is good in coffee, it’s delicous poured over granola, and it’s delectable poured over fresh fruit or added to vegetable soup. You’ll find many uses for it.

You can purchase almond milk, but it won’t have the fresh flavor this does. And this is so simple to make it seems a shame not to do so!

Note:
Plan ahead, because the almonds need to soak overnight before being ground with water to make the milk. Once you’ve extracted the milk from the almonds, you will still have a great deal of richly flavored almond pulp. Turn this into the savory or sweet sprinkles that I suggest on Chapter The Basics.

1.
Place the almonds in a medium bowl, cover them with water, and refrigerate overnight.

2.
Prepare a fine-mesh sieve by lining it with a double layer of cheesecloth and setting it over a bowl.

3.
Drain the almonds and place them in a blender or food processor with 1½ cups (375 ml) ltered water. Process until the almonds are quite nely chopped. Add another 1½ cups (375 ml) ltered water, process, then pour the mixture into the prepared sieve. Let the almond milk drain from the almonds, then, to encourage it, wrap the almond pulp in the cheesecloth and press firmly on it to remove as much milk as possible.

Savory or Sweet Almond Sprinkle

Makes about 1½ cups (240 g)

After making Almond Milk (preceding recipe), you will have a great deal of almond pulp left over, and it will still be filled with almond flavor and nutrition. So, with my increasing appreciation for having flavored nut mixtures on hand for sprinkling on everything, I decided to transform that almond pulp into something I would love to use on everything from fresh toast to soup, salad, or pasta. This will keep for about 1 month, in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.

Note:
The almond pulp will be very wet after the milk is squeezed from it, so once you’ve mixed in the spices you need to dry it thoroughly. It loses a lot of volume as it dries.

1.
Line a jelly-roll pan with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 210°F (100°C).

2.
Place the almond pulp in a medium mixing bowl and add the spices for the savory version or the sugar and sweet spices for the sweet version. Mix thoroughly. The pulp will be quite damp, so spread it in an even layer on the prepared pan and place the pan in the oven to dry and toast, which could take as long as 2 hours. Check on it from time to time, and as it begins to turn golden, check on it more frequently. Remove from the oven and let it cool thoroughly before storing it in an airtight container.

Sweet Pie Pastry—Pâte Sucrée

Makes enough pastry for a 10½-inch (27-cm) tart

This is a wonderfully easy all-purpose pastry for fruit and other tarts. It goes together quickly and easily—do not lose heart at the point where it looks like a mass of crumbles. Follow the recipe and you’ll get a beautiful pastry.

Note:
You may make this in the food processor, but it isn’t as good and tender, and the ingredients don’t go together quite as well as when it is made by hand. When you put the ingredients in the well, don’t leave the sugar touching the egg yolks and then walk away or become distracted before continuing with the recipe.

Sugar will “cook” raw egg yolks, making little hard pieces of egg yolk. When you begin this recipe, finish it straight through for the best results.

1.
Sift the flour onto a work surface and make a large well in the center. Place the salt, vanilla sugar, and egg yolks in the well and mix them with your fingers. Pound on the butter to soften it slightly, add it to the well, and quickly combine it with the other ingredients, using the fingertips of one hand, until partly blended. Gradually work in the flour with the fingertips of both hands, pulling the flour from the side toward the butter mixture in the center, until large crumbs form. Continue blending the pastry by cutting it into pieces using a dough scraper. When the dough is smooth, gather it into a ball, then continue to work it by pushing it away from you and against the work surface with the heel of your hand and gathering it up with the dough scraper until it is pliable and thoroughly combined. Press the dough into a flat round and let it sit in a cool place for at least 30 minutes. Roll it out as specified in the recipe.

Parmigiano-Reggiano Pastry

Makes enough pastry for a one-crust tart or about thirty 4 to 5 × ½-inch (10 to 13 × 1.25-cm) sticks

This pastry is a simple inspiration, a recipe I am so happy to have in my repertoire. I make it often, using it either as a base for a savory mixture (see the Grilled Vegetable Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, Chapter Small Plates) or as a simple appetizer after rolling it out, cutting it into thin strips, and baking it to a crisp golden turn (see Parmigiano-Reggiano Seed Sticks, Chapter Small Plates).

Note:
This is very easy to make—just pay attention to letting the pastry sit out at room temperature so the gluten in the flour can relax, making it easy to roll out.

1.
Place the flour, salt, and cheese in a food processor and pulse once to mix. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal, pulsing five to eight times. Add 5 tablespoons (75 ml) ice water and pulse just until the pastry begins to hold together and is quite damp. Add another tablespoon of water if the pastry seems dry.

2.
Transfer the pastry from the food processor to your work surface and form it into a flat round. Let it rest on the work surface, covered with a tea towel or a bowl, for at least 30 minutes and as long as 1 hour.

On Rue Tatin’s Tender Tart Pastry

Makes enough pastry for one 10½-inch (26-cm) to 12½-inch (31-cm) tart

I call this On Rue Tatin pastry because I teach students how to make it in every single class I offer. The reason? Because it is perfect. Easy and quick to make, always delicious, crisp, and buttery, it can embrace anything, whether it be sweet or savory.

Note:
Pay careful attention and have both the butter and the water as cold as possible before adding them to the other ingredients. If you are working in a very hot environment, refrigerate the flour before making this.

1.
Place the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse once to mix. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 5 tablespoons (75 ml) ice water and pulse just until the pastry begins to hold together. If the pastry seem dry and dusty, add another tablespoon of water.

2.
Transfer the pastry from the food processor to your work surface and form it into a flat round. Let it rest on the work surface, covered with a bowl, for at least 30 minutes. The pastry can sit for several hours at room temperature, as long as the room isn’t warmer than 68°F (20°C). The pastry is ready to use as desired.

Mint Oil

Makes
¹
/
₃
cup (80 ml)

Flavored oils are delicious additions to many dishes. Mint oil is commonly used as a seasoning or a condiment in Turkish dishes, and I’ll never forget the first time I enjoyed it, drizzled over Potatoes with Yogurt and Pistachios (Chapter A World of Side Dishes). I was in Gazientep enjoying a meal prepared by Fatih Babican, an extraordinary chef who is devoted to his native Anatolian cuisine. I was surprised he used dried mint in the oil, but he pointed out how much more intense its flavor is when freshly dried, and on tasting this oil I had to agree with him. Try using this on hummus, on steamed fish, on roasted chicken right from the oven, or even as a dip for sesame bread.

Note:
Make sure not to boil the olive oil when infusing it, as that will denature its flavor. Heat it gently, just enough so that the heat of the oil encourages the flavor from the dried peppermint, which must be very, very fresh and pungent. The oil is at the perfect temperature when you can dip the back of your index finger into it and feel the heat but not get burned. Mint oil will keep for about 3 days, refrigerated. Remove it from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before you plan to use it, so it can liquefy.

1.
Place the olive oil and the mint in a small, heavy pan, whisk them together and place over very low heat, and heat the oil just enough so the temperature increases enough to feel hot when you touch it with the skin on the back of one of your fingers. Do not let it boil. Keep the oil at this temperature for about 10 minutes, then remove from the heat and reserve.

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A

Almond(s)

Blancmange, 180–81

Cake, 10–11

Cake, Crumbly–Sbrisolona, 216–17

Cinnamon Pecans, 26

Crunchy Granola, 4–5

Dried Apricot, and Lemon Bread, 44–45

Fiona’s Yogurt Cake, 214–15

Garlic, and Cumin, Duck Breast with, 136–38

Green Beans, and White Peaches, 60–61

health benefits, xvi

and Horseradish Cream, Smoked Salmon with, 36–37

Kabili Fruit and Nut Squares, 178–79

Lena’s Nut Cookies, 195–96

Milk, 233

Nougat Glacé, 207–8

Nutty Pancakes, 12–13

and Olive Sandwich, Fiona’s, 75–76

and Onions, Focaccia with, 79–80

and Orange Pashka, 14–15

Rocky Road, 201–2

Sicilian Sweet and Sour Rabbit, 144–45

Soup, 77–78

Spanish, Salted, 33

Sprinkle, Savory or Sweet, 234

Tagine from Le Casbah, 141–42

Toasted Mixed Nuts and Seeds Fait Maison, 34–35

Topping, Fruit Crisp with, 16–17

and Walnut Cookies, Spiced–Joanne’s Pfefferneuse, 191–92

Watercress and Beet Salad with, 88–89

Anise- and Fennel-Spiced Walnuts, 32

Apple(s)

and Lamb with Pistachios, 131–32

Tagine from Le Casbah, 141–42

Torte, Wenatchee, 190

Apricot(s)

Dried, and Pistachios, Roast Pork with, 133–35

Dried, Lemon, and Almond Bread, 44–45

Nougat Glacé, 207–8

and Pine Nut Compote, 3

Pistachio Compote, 8–9

and Walnuts, Lamb Shoulder with, 124–25

Argan oil, about, 142–43

Arugula and Butternut Squash Salad, 96–97

Avocado with Pistachio Oil and Chives, 62

B

Bacon, Smoked, Scallion, and Pecan Butter, 230–31

Bananas

Coconut Sticky Rice with Peanuts, 182–84

Basics

Almond Milk, 233

Cumin Salt, 226

Gomasio, 227

Macadamia and Coconut Sprinkle, 228

Mint Oil, 238

Nut Butter, 224–25

Parmigiano-Reggiano Pastry, 236

Poppy Seed Dressing, 232

On Rue Tatin’s Tender Tart Pastry, 237

Savory or Sweet Almond Sprinkle, 234

Smoked Bacon, Scallion, and Pecan Butter, 230–31

Sweet, Lemony Hazelnut Butter, 229

Sweet Pie Pastry–Pâte Sucrée, 235

Basil

Brazil Nut Pesto with Pasta, 58–59

Eggplant with Saffron Walnuts, 56–57

Malloreddus de Kita Santa–Tiny Sardinian Gnocchi for Good Friday, 66–67

Beans

Butternut Squash and Arugula Salad, 96–97

Fresh Shell, Nutty, 164–65

Green, White Peaches, and Almonds, 60–61

Beef

Hanger Steak with Horseradish and Walnuts, 121–23

Beet and Watercress Salad with Almonds, 88–89

Beets, Red, and Walnuts, Unbeatable, 64–65

Belgian Endive, Curried, with Cashews, 152

Blancmange, Almond, 180–81

Brazil Nut(s)

Fish, 119–20

health benefits, xvi

Pesto with Pasta, 58–59

Breads

Dried Apricot, Lemon, and Almond, 44–45

Focaccia with Onions and Almonds, 79–80

Savory, with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Pine Nuts, and Pistachios, 48–49

Savory Squash and Cheese, 46

Breakfast dishes

Almond Cake, 10–11

Apricot and Pine Nut Compote, 3

Apricot Pistachio Compote, 8–9

Crunchy Granola, 4–5

Fruit Crisp with Almond Topping, 16–17

Heavenly Chocolate Hazelnut Spread, 6–7

Nutty Pancakes, 12–13

Orange and Almond Pashka, 14–15

Quinoa, Hazelnut, and Cornmeal Pancakes, 18–19

Waffles with Walnut Whipped Cream, 20–21

Brittle, Peanut and Sesame, 203–4

Brussels Sprouts and Potatoes with Poppy Seed Dressing, 167–68

Butter

clarified, about, 151

Hazelnut, Sweet, Lemony, 229

Nut, 224–25

Smoked Bacon, Scallion, and Pecan, 230–31

C

Cakes

Almond, 10–11

Almond, Crumbly–Sbrisolona, 216–17

Golden Pound, Crowned with Nuts, 211–12

Poppy Seed, Lena’s, 213

Walnut, Jacqueline’s, 209–10

Walnut Coffee Tourte with Coffee Frosting, 218–19

Yogurt, Fiona’s, 214–15

Candy

Peanut and Sesame Brittle, 203–4

Rocky Road, 201–2

Carrots, Sautéed, East Indian Style, 166

Cashews

Curried Belgian Endive with, 152

health benefits, xvii

Lime and Pepper, 27

Sautéed Carrots East Indian Style, 166

Shrimp Biryani with, 106–8

Spiced Rice with Toasty Nuts, 169–70

Toasted Mixed Nuts and Seeds Fait Maison, 34–35

Cheese

Dried Apricot, Lemon, and Almond Bread, 44–45

Edgy Greens with Roquefort and Hazelnuts, 90–91

Fiona’s Almond and Olive Sandwich, 75–76

Goat, Fresh, Cream, and Walnut Verrine, 38–39

Parmigiano-Reggiano Pastry, 236

Parmigiano-Reggiano Seed Sticks, 40–41

Pine Nuts and Red Peppers, 92–93

and Squash Bread, Savory, 46

and Walnut Crackers, 52–53

Chicken

Tagine from Le Casbah, 141–42

with Walnuts and Pomegranate Molasses, 139–40

Chile peppers

Kaffir Peanuts, 30–31

Lime and Pepper Cashews, 27

Chocolate

Cocoa Nuts with Fleur de Sel, 28–29

Coconut, and Pistachio Macaroons, 199–200

Hazelnut Spread, Heavenly, 6–7

Rocky Road, 201–2

Cilantro

Butternut Squash and Arugula Salad, 96–97

Chicken with Walnuts and Pomegranate Molasses, 139–40

Eggplant with Saffron Walnuts, 56–57

Millet with Saffron and Walnuts, 87

Roasted Eggplant and Hazelnut Caviar, 153

Spiced Rice with Toasty Nuts, 169–70

Unbeatable Red Beets and Walnuts, 64–65

Cinnamon Pecans, 26

Cocoa Nuts with Fleur de Sel, 28–29

Coconut

Crunchy Granola, 4–5

Fiona’s Yogurt Cake, 214–15

and Macadamia Sprinkle, 228

Pistachio, and Chocolate Macaroons, 199–200

Spiced Rice with Toasty Nuts, 169–70

Wenatchee Apple Torte, 190

Coconut milk

Coconut Sticky Rice with Peanuts, 182–84

Tofu Satay, 146–47

Coffee Frosting, Walnut Coffee Tourte with, 218–19

Cookies and bars

Coconut, Pistachio, and Chocolate Macaroons, 199–200

Crumbly Almond Cake–Sbrisolona, 216–17

Hazelnut Cakes–Financiers, 197–98

Hazelnut Sablés–Sand Cookies, 188–89

Joanne’s Pfefferneuse–Spiced Walnut and Almond Cookies, 191–92

Kabili Fruit and Nut Squares, 178–79

Lemon Madeleines with Pistachios, 193–94

Lena’s Nut Cookies, 195–96

Cornmeal, Quinoa, and Hazelnut Pancakes, 18–19

Crackers, Walnut and Cheese, 52–53

Crackers, Yeast Seed, 81–83

Cumin Salt, 226

Curried Belgian Endive with Cashews, 152

D

Dates

Kabili Fruit and Nut Squares, 178–79

Desserts

Almond Blancmange, 180–81

Almond Cake, 10–11

Coconut, Pistachio, and Chocolate Macaroons, 199–200

Coconut Sticky Rice with Peanuts, 182–84

Crumbly Almond Cake–Sbrisolona, 216–17

Fiona’s Yogurt Cake, 214–15

Fruit Crisp with Almond Topping, 16–17

Golden Pound Cake Crowned with Nuts, 211–12

Hazelnut Cakes–Financiers, 197–98

Hazelnut Sablés–Sand Cookies, 188–89

Jacqueline’s Walnut Cake, 209–10

Joanne’s Pfefferneuse–Spiced Walnut and Almond Cookies, 191–92

Kabili Fruit and Nut Squares, 178–79

Lemon Madeleines with Pistachios, 193–94

Lemon Poppy Seed Ice Cream, 177

Lena’s Nut Cookies, 195–96

Lena’s Poppy Seed Cake, 213

Nougat Glacé, 207–8

Peanut and Sesame Brittle, 203–4

Pistachio Ice Cream, 205–6

Rocky Road, 201–2

Walnut Coffee Tourte with Coffee Frosting, 218–19

Wenatchee Apple Torte, 190

Dill, Pine Nuts, and Parsley, Fish Fillets Stuffed with, 113–14

Dips and spreads

Brazil Nut Pesto, 58–59

Heavenly Chocolate Hazelnut Spread, 6–7

Muhammara–Heavenly Red Peppers and Walnuts, 42–43

Nut Butter, 224–25

Orange and Almond Pashka, 14–15

Smoked Bacon, Scallion, and Pecan Butter, 230–31

Sweet, Lemony Hazelnut Butter, 229

Duck Breast with Almonds, Garlic, and Cumin, 136–38

Dukkah, 50–51

E

Eggplant

Grilled Vegetable Tarts with Pumpkin Seeds, 68–69

Roasted, and Hazelnut Caviar, 153

with Saffron Walnuts, 56–57

F

Fennel- and Anise-Spiced Walnuts, 32

Figs

Nougat Glacé, 207–8

Financiers–Hazelnut Cakes, 197–98

Fiona’s Almond and Olive Sandwich, 75–76

Fiona’s Yogurt Cake, 214–15

Fish.
See also
Shellfish

Brazil Nut, 119–20

buying, 105

Fillets Stuffed with Dill, Pine Nuts, and Parsley, 113–14

Gingered, on Spiced Macadamia Butter, 117–18

Marinated, with Sesame and Macadamias, 115–16

Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream and Almonds, 36–37

Spiced Mackerel in Parchment with Pine Nuts, 111–12

Flax seeds

health benefits, xviii

Yeast Seed Crackers, 81–83

Focaccia with Onions and Almonds, 79–80

Fruit.
See also specific fruits

Crisp with Almond Topping, 16–17

and Nut Squares, Kabili, 178–79

G

Garlic, green germ in, 43

Garlic, New, Gorgeous Green Spinach with, 158–59

Gingered Fish on Spiced Macadamia Butter, 117–18

Gnocchi, Tiny Sardinian, for Good Friday–Malloreddus de Kita Santa, 66–67

Goat Cheese

Fiona’s Almond and Olive Sandwich, 75–76

Fresh, Cream, and Walnut Verrine, 38–39

Gomasio, 227

Grains.
See also
Rice

Crunchy Granola, 4–5

Millet with Saffron and Walnuts, 87

Quinoa, Hazelnut, and Cornmeal Pancakes, 18–19

Quinoa with Macadamia Nuts, 154–55

Granola, Crunchy, 4–5

Green Beans, White Peaches, and Almonds, 60–61

Green Mango or Papaya Salad–Som Tam, 54–55

Greens

Butternut Squash and Arugula Salad, 96–97

Edgy, with Roquefort and Hazelnuts, 90–91

Gorgeous Green Spinach with New Garlic, 158–59

Marinated Fish with Sesame and Macadamias, 115–16

The Perfect Salad Dressed with Nut Oil Vinaigrette, 98–99

Watercress and Beet Salad with Almonds, 88–89

Guinea hen

Tagine from Le Casbah, 141–42

H

Hazelnut(s)

Butter, Sweet, Lemony, 229

Cakes–Financiers, 197–98

Caviar and Roasted Eggplant, 153

Chocolate Spread, Heavenly, 6–7

Dukkah, 50–51

health benefits, xvii

Kabili Fruit and Nut Squares, 178–79

Lena’s Nut Cookies, 195–96

Nutty Mussels, 109–10

Parmigiano-Reggiano Seed Sticks, 40–41

Quinoa, and Cornmeal Pancakes, 18–19

and Roquefort, Edgy Greens with, 90–91

Sablés–Sand Cookies, 188–89