Authors: Fiona McIntosh
âThank you, I'm glad you approve. Amina, I'm nervous about the hammam.'
Amina looked sideways at her. âWhy?'
âI have no idea what to expect.'
âThere is nothing to fear. It is a special outing for the women to be together. You will find it joyful. It is not far now.' She noted the girls were walking briskly and presumed it had to be because they were not normally out during the day without a male family member to escort them; special privileges had obviously been given on her behalf for these girls to be here. Instead of feeling reassured, Claire felt a fresh tension knot itself within.
________
In a country where females were required to cover themselves head to toe in dark robes, which included shielding their hands with extra-long billowy sleeves, Claire didn't know whether to feel exhilarated or shocked to be in a room full of women who were near naked. To add to her confusion, she was convinced that her paleness must appear comical among the sensuously toffee-coloured skin of the local women. Nevertheless they gave her smiles, nods and mutterings of â
Merhaba
' in welcome that were as warm as the temperature of the marbled tiled chamber she stood in. She again checked that the knotted fringe of the pestemal was securely tucked in beneath her left shoulder. The pale straw-coloured linen was flat woven and seemed too thin to be useful as a towel, but was her only covering between modesty and nudity.
As daring as she had sounded to her colleague, when the moment came to slip out of her clothes and underwear, she had felt a rush of clammy terror arrive. This experience was so alien, so completely opposed to all things British. And yet as unnerving as it all suddenly felt, there was also a small voice of adventure calling to her to try it. A new experience, a new awakening to a culture not her own; she wanted this and without giving herself another moment's hesitation, Claire stepped out of the small cubicle wearing only the whisper-thin linen.
She'd had a notion that the baths would be filled with steam but the truth was that the air was clear of vapour and simply felt moist. Her hair protested immediately, however, and began to curl unpleasantly around her ears.
A woman, taller than her and of Rubenesque stature, glided lightly over the tiled floor that was laid in a geometric pattern of pale green, blushing pink and white marble with striations of grey. Her long untied hair had clearly once been coal-black but was now feathered with silver at her foreline. Large, smoke-black eyes regarded her with intense interest and held Claire's gaze away from her large, bared breasts, which to Claire's initial glance, were surely full enough to make any man feel weak. She was certain her own covered pair appeared as inconsequential mounds by comparison and she had to fight the inclination to adjust her pestemal even higher. The wooden clogs she balanced on felt strange and she was sure she was going to topple over and embarrass herself.
âYou are Claire, no?'
âYes,' she strangled out, glad once again for the single common bond of English. âThank you for having me. I feel as though I've entered a whole new world of curious discovery.'
The woman gave a lazy, throaty laugh, rich with amusement and generosity. âMy name is Kashifa. I am one of Rifki's sisters.'
âHow many of you are there? He didn't mention.'
An eyebrow lifted slightly with practised speed. âHe has six of us. Like my daughter, I'm the only one of our peers to speak English fluently.'
âSix sisters? He must have been spoilt.'
âHe was my mother's little prince. We're all proud of him.' She kissed Claire on both cheeks and as she did so, Claire felt the touch of Kashifa's warm, smoothly skinned body against her own. It felt oddly comforting.
âYou are very welcome among us. Rifki speaks highly of you.'
Claire blushed. âI barely know him.'
Something in her companion's gaze denied her statement. âYou know him,' she said, touching her heart, and Claire blinked, unsure of how to understand the comment. Kashifa looked unaware of Claire's discomfort.
âYou and Amina really do have such good language skills â I'm embarrassed at how useless I am.'
Kashifa nodded once. âThank you. I am the sister closest to Rifki. He taught me from quite young,' she said. âI think it is important to understand the world around us even though we must stay in our homes. The world is changing. I don't know what my daughters will face.' She sighed and smiled at the cacophony of women's voices echoing off the hard surfaces. âHammam is the only place we can gather and gossip.' She lifted an eyebrow again in a suggestion of wickedness and Claire laughed. âCome and meet my grandson and the reason for all this fuss.'
She took Claire's hand and led her through the main public bathing space to where more than three dozen women, in all shapes and sizes and ages, were excitedly chatting.
âAre you thirsty?' Kashifa wondered.
âA little.' Claire shrugged and watched her companion move expertly on the wooden pattens to a small pool where bottles cooled. She returned with two earthen beakers with a clear, lightly fizzing liquid. âThis is gazoz.'
Claire looked back at her quizzically.
âIt is how you say um, slightly . . .?' Kashifa began.
âEffervescent?' Claire offered and Kashifa looked back at her with a frown to make Claire laugh. âUm . . . bubbly,' she tried again. âFizzy?'
âAh yes, fizzy, I have heard this word and it describes gazoz well.'
âIn England we call this soda water.'
âEach region produces its own gazoz, so the flavours depending on where you are in my country are unique.'
âHow lovely,' Claire said and sipped. âThis is delicious. Slightly fruity, is it?'
Kashifa laughed. âThen it's not local to Istanbul.'
They walked on and Claire noticed that some women reclined on the various divans and lazily listened with an air of superiority, as though detached from the general activity. Kashifa led her to a quieter, more private area that could be screened off.
âI decided to treat my daughter to her own special washing chamber, where she can receive her guests and gifts,' Kashifa explained.
She saw a woman resembling Kashifa, whom Claire aged at possibly nineteen, clutching a tiny suckling infant. She wasn't ready for how her body instinctively responded to this most natural act, which Claire in all of her nursing days had not witnessed. She felt it first like a single pound of a door in her chest before her nipples stiffened and a curious glow suffused her as she became aware of her carefully guarded expression relaxing . . . melting, in fact, at the gentle sounds of the happy baby.
âHe is beautiful,' she said tenderly, deeply touched by the sight of the naked, gurgling infant. âWill you tell your daughter congratulations from me?' She offered the tiny coin that she'd unwrapped and held in her hand since arriving.
Rifki's niece beamed, thanking her traditionally in Turkish.
â
Rica ederim
,' Claire replied.
Kashifa laughed. âNot bad. We like very much that you try.'
âThat's almost all I have. My Arabic has a few more words.'
âAh . . . you have spent time there?'
She nodded. âA little, during the war.'
âWe lost the only boy in the family we had to that war . . . until now.'
âAçar is why I'm in Istanbul.'
Her friend nodded. âRifki told me you travelled from London to keep a promise to my nephew. We admire you and wish to give you a family thank you. Come, let us begin your education into the hammam. Here is a copper basin for you. It needs to be filled from the central fountain but the water is very hot; be warned.'
âI'm sorry I make so much noise as I walk.'
âYour takunyas look large for you. Here, try mine.' She slipped off hers and Claire, not wishing to offend, obliged. âThose look better.'
Claire took a couple of steps and grinned. âMuch. I have control of my feet again.'
Kashifa stepped into her new clogs and expertly glided on, making half the clatter that Claire had.
They came to a narrow canal that had been cut into the floor to carry away the dirty water.
âClaire, I think you will be amused by our custom but you may wish to follow me and spit three times into this used water.'
âDid you say spit?'
Kashifa gave her smoky laugh again. She nodded and, still chuckling, added: âAnd you must say “
destur bismillah
” each time you spit.'
âFor good luck with bathing?' she asked, confused.
This brought a louder laugh from her host. âNo, my girl, we are warding off the evil spirits in the dirty water where they inhabit. This incantation is being polite to them. If we acknowledge them, then we are respecting their presence even though our words are about banishment.'
âI see.' She didn't fully understand but it was a harmless enough ritual and so she followed Kashifa's lead and made a soft â
tisoo
,
tisoo
' sound, feigning spitting into the channel of water, and said the rote words three times. Claire felt ridiculous but she was keen to be respectful of not just the spirits but also the kindness of her hosts.
âNow we can cross.' Kashifa beamed. âWe are safe from their touch.'
She knew she was being watched but a rare sense of freedom had overcome her. Claire could swear she had stepped out of her body and was watching herself from the other side of the room. She could feel the warmth of the floor through her toes as she followed Kashifa into the main bathing chamber where it all became quieter and she was reminded momentarily of a chapel. Its peaceful sounds, soft voices and splashing of water gave her a sense of worship, the reassuring sound of its trickle made her feel secure, important to the continuation of life. The drier heat of the large, atrium-like main bathing chamber boosted the fragrance of jasmine and sandalwood that she was able to pick out immediately on entering. She imagined gazing at her reflection as she walked to the spout and it was true her flesh stood out as paler than her companions but it was young, unblemished and clung firmly to her skeleton, which moved straight-backed. Her belly was still taut, unlike the majority of the women beginning their ablutions, and she knew none of the dimpling of their buttocks or flabbiness of their thighs appeared on her. She still lived in the realm of youth and her breasts, though small, had a pleasing rounded shape, she decided, now that she considered so many others on display. She could see the individual bones of her rib cage delineated through the all-too-thin covering of her skin and it made her realise just how badly she had been taking care of herself after the war, for she lacked the enviable fecund appearance of the younger, exotic women around her. The temperature in this chamber was perfect â neither cold nor overly warm â and she no longer had an excuse. Claire found the courage to cast away the linen that covered her; she was a foreigner in a foreign land.
She knew they all noticed her still-emaciated frame, testimony to the deprivations of the Western Front and her arduous hours spent over broken men with no regard for her own nourishment or sustenance. The memory made her think of Jamie and a surge of sadness gripped her.
âClaire,' Kashifa said, covering her hand. âAre you not â'
âI am well,' she replied with a reassuring smile. âSorry, I became lost in a memory.'
Kashifa nodded. âYou have seen many things, I think. The hammam is a place for relaxation . . . to forget those memories and to ruthlessly gossip.'
Claire laughed. âIs that why you come here?'
âOf course, otherwise I am surrounded by the walls of my house. Hammam is the escape.'
âWhat does your husband think of your escape?'
âMy husband is dead.' She didn't say it with any severity in her voice, or with any sort of admonition. Claire was glad that Kashifa required no answer either and continued as though in conversation. âHe died in the war, along with so many of the husbands, brothers and sons of the women in this room. It is why the birth of Arin is so important. He is the beginning. He is pure, is not a part of the war, or a remnant of it. He was conceived in peace and in love. And he brings new life to our family, which has known too much death.'
âThen I feel privileged to share this with all of you.'
âIt's a pity you cannot share our gossip.'
âIs there a common theme?' Her friend frowned as though she didn't understand. âI mean, what is everyone mainly gossiping about?'
âEach other,' Kashifa quickly replied, and they both laughed. âBut mainly the suitability of the young women.'
It was Claire's turn to frown. âSuitability?'
âOne of the important reasons for a girl on the verge of womanhood to be seen at the hammam â and especially a woman who has bled â is to catch the eye of the mothers with sons.'
Claire opened her mouth in surprise.
âYes,' Kashifa continued. âHow else can you show that you are a good choice? This is why you will see a lot of the youngsters strutting around making sure their fine bodies are shown off to their best.'
Claire nodded to where a woman reclined, looking uninterested in everything around her. âI'll bet that's a mother of a son.'
Kashifa's eyes sparkled with amusement. âOh, yes. Two of her sons are now available so all these mothers of daughters will be desperately trying to engage her in conversation because the family is wealthy.'
Claire shook her head with soft awe, delighted by this education. âThe truth is, Kashifa, it's no different in our culture. We've just got our clothes on when it's happening!'
They both chuckled in easy companionship. âSons are currency in our culture,' Kashifa continued. âIt's why Rifki was so precious to my parents, why Açar's loss was devastating to our family and why my new grandson is the most valuable gift from the heavens I could wish for.'