Joyce's War (4 page)

I leaned over the rails and watched the moonlight on the wake of the ship, gilding the waves to gold, the other ships like great phantoms gliding nonchalantly besides us. A strange sort of war indeed. This is as much like a pleasure cruise as any ship’s company could provide: sports on the boat deck, tennis, quoits and all the rest. We are allowed to wear mufti after lunch until dinner. The crew and the men are all in tropical kit today and look terribly cool and clean. Even the chairs in the dining room have the white covers on them. We have been having a far from polite discussion about whether we shall wear our tricolenes
8
as mess dress or our white overalls. We stuck out for the tricolenes as the white drills will be so hard to launder. Also we have won our point, although whether it is worth it or not remains to be seen.

The sergeants – who look more interesting than the officers – have invited us to a dance this evening.

August 17th 1940

Land again – Freetown, Sierra Leone. Mona and I have been sewing and ironing all day and by the late afternoon we realise that the ship’s engines are slowing down and that we must be in port or as near to it as we are permitted to be. We go up to the boat deck and a lovely sight greets us: a smallish scattered town nestling on a green hillside with rugged mountains beyond and banks of low white clouds in the blue sky. Ships and craft of all sizes and description are lying idly in the bay. It is unbearably hot, however, and memories of the Australian summer at its worst rush back to me.

We are given quinine tablets because of the outbreak of yellow fever in Freetown. Also, after much alteration and labour generally we don our white overalls for dinner, as a gesture. It is lovely on the boat deck after dinner with a cool breeze blowing, for which we are truly thankful. This morning I awake to the cries of the local inhabitants below, endeavouring to sell their wares: bananas, coloured baskets, handkerchiefs and the like. Now and then they burst into song –
The Lambeth Walk
and other equally inappropriate ditties. They are not supposed to come alongside because of the fever and, to get rid of them, they are headed off with the fire hose. They look so colourful with their sleek black bodies and close cropped heads in their bark canoes. Without more ado than getting in and out of bed they leave their canoes and dive in after any sixpences that might drift that way. On the starboard side there is a curious looking tanker with a Chinese crew from which we are taking oil. Boat drills this morning, a new station again: number six.

The news seems to be increasingly grave at home and in the east. Surely this will be a long war or else we will come out of it very badly.

August 19th 1940

Life on the ocean wave once again. We left Freetown about 8am yesterday. Mona and I had got ourselves out of bed with a supreme effort at 6am and 6.30 saw us leaning over the port side, B deck. We had our best entertainment by the local inhabitants, who dived and sang to us and kept us thoroughly amused. One comedian came dressed complete with top hat and collar and tie, doffed his hat before he dived for sixpences and returned as immaculate, except for a slightly soggy collar and a tie that hung damply over one shoulder. He gave a delightful impression of a Salvation Army preacher – in short he would have brought the house down in any theatre.

So we watched the palm-girt shore slip slowly back into the distance and disappear, and now we are heading for Cape Town, around the ‘bump’ and rushing it, as we are to be in port in a week’s time, so it is said. In the meantime it is hot, so hot that one feels one cannot possibly go on day after day, wet and sticky and exhausted with it all. The cabins are the bête noir of the trip – we dread going down there to dress and iron. By dinner time Mona and I feel at enmity with all our fellow creatures. Daily we meet at 12.45pm for a passion fruit parade with John and Woody – an institution no less, and then again before dinner and for coffee afterwards. We have endeavoured to appropriate a table and chairs in the annex where it is cooler and less frequented. It rained last night, suddenly and stormily, and cleared again as quickly. And today it was lovely on the boat deck: very fresh and breezy except that I had washed my hair in the morning and it blew everywhere in the wildest confusion.

August 31st 1940

Cape Town is a memory – and we sail on – no-one knows where. Ten days of sea between Freetown and Cape Town. The usual routine – boat drill, sometimes an emergency one, when things are done more realistically, the boats lowered, the whole crew assembling on deck and we are turning round putting up shutters and then sitting on the floor until the four bells sound, sending us to our boat stations.

For some time the sergeants were most social, inviting the sisters to dances – Monday night at 8, whist drives and concerts but for some reason these entertainments have been cut out – we think the officers have intervened for reasons best known to them. The officers hold a dance each Saturday evening and one night last week there was a concert, various topical sketches and songs on A Deck. We sat in easy chairs and toyed with shandies when the occasion demanded. Afterwards, going out on deck we saw a hospital ship quite near us, brilliantly lit, in green and white and red lights – a strange and lovely sight – in these blackout nights. Then there was the usual last minute rush to write letters – about nine this time – and nothing to put in any of them, and then getting someone to censor them. Mona got John N. to do hers and John W. did mine – so it’s all an endless farce really. And so to Cape Town, ships in the bay and Table Mountain rising sheer and stark above the town, a cloudless sky, warm sunshine and the town lying before us.

Mona and I were on duty in outpatients on Tuesday and Wednesday – the day we reached Cape Town – but we finished up early and after lunch walked into town. We meant to do a lot of shopping but leaving under pressure, arranged to meet the boys at 3.30pm and to have tea with them, we got little enough done in the end. The town itself isn’t very large and the shopping is distinctly expensive. Elizabeth Arden creams at 4/6 in England were 10/- and so on. But there are many fine buildings, tall and straight in the modern style, often with friezes in stone around the walls, or over doorways; heads of famous African chiefs or sometimes Dutch motifs. We had tea at the Waldorf
,
very noisy and modern and American, and afterwards, by taxi, went along the rim of the mountain and along the sea front to Camp Bay, which is a very lovely stretch of coast, quite rocky in parts with the waves thundering in spray on the headlands. We got out of the car and scrambled onto the rocks. It was lovely beyond words to stand there: the sea surging around us, the long stretches of very white fine sand, the red roofed houses among dark green pines on the hillside, the sun beginning to set over the rim of the sea, making a golden path across to our feet and the mountains standing firm behind us, touched with a rosy light – all so lovely. I think we could have wept easily enough – all four of us. These are things that remain; even wars seem fleeting and unimportant in comparison. A golden evening.

We went then to the Del Monica, a new looking café, very large and somewhat bizarre, and where it seemed all the army and the navy and the QAs had decided to eat, or more particularly, to drink. It was in the Moorish style with midnight blue sky and artificial stars waxing and waning,
comme il faut
. We had some exotic cocktails, choosing them for the poetical worth of their names – Alhambra, Angel’s Kiss, Blue Moon, and Orange Blossom – and then went upstairs to eat. White-turbaned Indians waited on us and we dined, if not wisely, very well. We celebrated something – I don’t remember what – with champagne and wine, very happy to forget much that was better forgotten for the moment. We went somewhere else after that and eventually arrived back at the ship, by taxi, about 11pm. It was enchanting for us to see lights once again, by night, having lived through months of total darkness and walking around lightless decks every night on board. It seemed too wonderful to be true that the streets were brilliantly lit and that windows of houses and cafés poured forth a steady warm glow and that neon lights winked unrestrained against the sky. We went up on a deck for a few minutes to watch the hillside under the mountain, a veritable diamond necklace against the dark sky. Next morning, up betimes and after wasting some precious hours, we eventually got into town by bus. We started on a shopping campaign but got very little done in the end, although I did manage to get a cable to the family to say that all was well. It seems as though I shall never see their familiar handwriting on an envelope again. By this time the matron in Haifa must be almost snowed up with our steadily accumulating mail.

We came back to the ship for lunch and as we were setting off for town again, with the boys, someone asked us if we were going into town and said, if so, that he would drive us. Before we knew what was happening it was arranged that his wife would drive all four of us up Table Mountain, or as far as one could go by car. After a considerable time at the cable station, awaiting our turn for the funicular, we eventually all packed in and in seven and a half minutes were transported to the very top of Table Mountain. Gradually, and miraculously, the panorama unfolded itself as we ascended and the smaller hills dwindled, and Lions Head looked like a perfect coconut pyramid – the tall pines below began to shrink and look like shrubs, the sea shimmered like silk, under the blue sky, and the boats, far away indeed, were no bigger than canoes.

Once there, the top of Table Mountain presented an enormous rock garden on a grand scale, small rock flowers and shrubs sheltered under the great boulders. To stand on the edge gave one, alternately, a sense of power and weakness – to be monarch of all one surveyed and to be a mere dab on the horizon. Away, some forty miles, rose the Drachenburg range, mysteriously shrouded in mist, with their peaks outlined jaggedly against the sky. From the terrace below the café, more hills, sheer and grim, others bathed about their feet with cloud. We had tea in the lovely little café and then started downwards again, the sun pouring richly across the sea (I couldn’t see at all, without my very dark glasses). We wasted a good deal of time then, going in search of the lady’s husband, who insisted on our going to his club to take the local sherry, before taking us back to the ship.

After a wash and brush up we set out again. Mona and John went to Del Monaco and John W. (who was detained to do a small job) and I went off to the Mount
Nelson hotel some distance out of town. It had a superb entrance and a long palm lined drive. Inside it was like any good quiet hotel in England or Australia, except that the waiters, as seems to be normal in Cape Town, were Indians. We were really too late for dinner, it was almost 8, but John saw the head waiter and all was arranged. We started tropically with paw paw, the first since I had left Australia, and continued through turkey and trifle and fruit salad as the waiter insisted. Coffee in the lounge completed a pleasant quiet evening. It was nice to get away from the ship’s crowd for a while. A taxi back to the ship and then bed about 1am.

We left Cape Town at 5pm next day. We were not allowed on shore during the day, which annoyed us considerably, as we wanted to do more shopping and there seemed no reason why we should have to stay on board. We had managed to get some fruit and flowers the previous day: lovely oranges and mandarins, guavas, passion fruit and apples. The flowers were a sheer joy: heather and proteas, anemones, ranunculus, freesias and Icelandic poppies in gorgeous profusion. We have some now on our table and I like not to think that they will shortly die. We are in the first convoy now heading east and then north. There are a goodly number of ships, more than before, and larger ships including the
Empress of Britain
, the
Empress of Canada
and the
Shetland.
The
Ormande
, we have left behind it seems, as she is too slow for us.

It is getting hot and muggy again, and we like it not. This ‘organised waste of time’ as John calls it, continues, in spite of determined efforts to combat it. I do nothing all day and go to bed quite exhausted with the effort. We do open our port hole, having unofficial permission from the steward as we have no light showing through from the corridor and it is safe enough, and even so, the cabin is unbearably hot and airless. Tropical kit tomorrow – into our tricolenes and white drills once again. It is said that we shall arrive at our destination in 16 days and without any more ports of call. I shall be most thankful when we are really established at last, wherever that may be, so that I can unpack and really spread myself out once more. If it is a tent, I’m done for once again. It is Sunday morning, no boat drill and everyone is sitting around in odd groups, writing, playing chess or cards, or just sitting, as I propose to do, even now.

September 6th 1940

Calm seas, blue skies, warm breezes, and gorgeous sunsets – the Indian Ocean as I remember it in 1937. The sky was perfectly lovely the night before last. The sea at one stage was a heavenly blue and the sky a pastel pink, where it met the sea on the horizon, with delicate opalescent clouds suspended just above the horizon. The sea was so still we could see the reflection of the
Empress of Britain
as she rode alongside us and the smoke from the funnels of the other ships hanging in the air in a black horizontal line halfway between sea and sky. From the port side later, the sea was a delicate turquoise, the ships standing out in a black relief against the setting sun, setting really like a great lantern and sending its last beams across the still waters to our ship’s side.

At night, leaning over the rails on A Deck, the sky was peppered with stars, countless millions of them.

---- Look how the floor of heaven

Is thick inlaid with patines of bright gold;

There’s not the smallest orb which thou beholdest,

But in his motion like an angel sings,

Still quiring to the young-eyed cherubims;