Is There a Nutmeg in the House? (50 page)

cagliata
66–7

cannelini beans cooked in Tuscan bean jar
75
Tuscan bean soup
35

capon
see
chicken

CARAMEL DESSERTS
242

caramelised sugar
243

Carnacina, Luigi,
Il Gourmet Internazionale
95

Cassell’s
Book of the Household
123

cassia
257

celery and lemon sauce
81
vivandi di silari (with egg, fried bread)
65

celery and mushrooms
77

Cervio, Vincenzo,
Il Trinciante
196

Chapman, George
73

Chapusot, Francesco,
La Cucina Sana, Economica ed Elegante
254–5

cheese processed
131
sauce, for Arborio rice
146

cheese and dill sticks
229

cheese pudding
131
,
259

cherries in mostarda
106
with verjuice and spices
101

chestnut sauce, for roast pheasant
175

chicken boiled in white broth with almonds
115
cooked in cider and Calvados
206
‘friar’s chicken’ – a thickened soup
155
gratin, in cream sauce
199
in noodle soup, with chicken livers
141
marinaded, grilled
204
pâté (‘bianco-mangiare’)
207
roast
174
salad
200
simmered with vegetables, and sherry sauce
201

chicken baked with green pepper and cinnamon butter
90

chicken baked with Italian spice and olive oil
203

chicken pilau
143
,
144

chicken Veronica
201

chick pea flour
232
and
see
farinata

chicories
46
,
48

chocolate cream ice
281
,
282

chocolate (drinking)
191

Christmas dishes
168–72
,
202

CHRISTMAS IN FRANCE
168

Christmas pudding
6
,
170

cicoria
46

cider chicken cooked in
206
duck baked in
208

cinnamon
282

clarifying consommé
30

cock-a-leekie
155

coffee in chocolate ice cream
282

coffee ice cream
274

The Compleat Cook
187

composta di fragole al latte di mandorle
253

composte
103
,
105

consommé
27
,
29–30

Cooke, Samuel,
The Complete English Gardener
237

Copley, Esther,
The Housekeeper’s Guide
237

a cordial water of Sir Walter Raleigh
252

Cordon Bleu Cookery
118

cos lettuce in garden salad
47
salad
50
with anchovy
161

Cossart, Noël,
Madeira
293–8

courgette dish currently popular at E.D.’s lunchtime picnics
74

courgettes gratin, with rice
56
in bohémienne
57
tian
54
with tomatoes
55
tian or gratin, with tomatoes and eggs
42

courgettes in salad
40

courgettes with lemon sauce
41

Cox, J. Stevens,
Dorset Dishes of the 18th century
250

crab or prawn kedgeree
157

cream of parsnips with green ginger and eggs
79

CREME BRULEE
247

crème caramel
246

crème de fraises
255

crème de riz
33

crème renversée au caramel
246

CRUDITES
48

cucumber salad, with rice
203

currants in relish
99

David, Anthony
304

David, Elizabeth early life: at Wootton
1–3
on the continent
4
,
302
in Egypt
5–6
,
15
,
41
,
58
,
165–7
,
304
in Malta
163–5
first publishers
12–14
,
304
in France (1984)
151–2
kitchen shop
305
kitchens: early
3
,
5
,
6
Halsey Street
7–11
love of California
306
on Capri
84
,
304
refrigerator
3
,
6
,
8
work in the theatre
3
,
304
The Baking of an English Loaf
227
A Book of Mediterranean Food
5
,
13–14
,
305
Dried Herbs, Aromatics and Condiments
35
English Bread and Yeast Cookery
xi
,
227
,
304
research for
168
French Country Cooking
29
,
118
,
304
French Provincial Cooking
4
,
29
,
118
,
160
,
304
Harvest of the Cold Months
ix
,
x
Italian Food
12
,
14
,
108
,
181
,
259
,
304
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine
ix
Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen
305
Summer Cooking
29
,
304

Dawson, Thomas,
The Good Huswifes Jewell
73

Deficio di Ricette
242

De l’Ecluse, Charles
72

Denney, Anthony
129

Digby, Sir Kenelm
86
,
110
The Closet Opened
187
,
216

Dodds, Madeleine Hope
268

Dods, Margaret
see
Johnstone, Christina Jane

DO NOT DESPAIR OVER RICE
142

Douglas, Norman
304
Alone
136

drop scones
156

Drummond, Sir Jack,
The Englishman’s Food
18

duck baked in cider
208

Eales, Mary,
Receipts
188
,
197

eaux d’Italie
188

EDIBLE MACCHERONI
136

eggs and celery, on fried bread
66
hard-boiled, with cream of parsnips
79
hard-boiled yolks, in relish with almonds
100
in relish with currants
99
in smoked haddock soufflé
158
in Spanish omelette
129
layered galette, with dried fruit
286
poached
127–9
,
164
tian of courgettes
54
or gratin with courgettes and tomatoes
42
with spinach and potatoes
55
to separate
123–4

ELIZABETH DAVID
’
S
‘
DREAM
’
KITCHEN
7

Elliot, George
151

Emy,
L’Art de Bien Faire les Glaces d’Office
216
,
267
,
268
,
283
,
284–5

endive salad
50

an English loaf
223

entremets
191
,
248
,
249

ERBAGGI MANTOVANI
:
VEGETABLES OF MANTUA
60

Escoffier, Auguste
58
,
59
,
169
,
289

Evelyn, John
189
,
190
Acetaria
86

fagiolara
35
,
75

fagioli alla fagiolara toscana
76

faïna alla genovese
230

Falernian wines
298

farinata
230

fécule
33

fennel minestra with gooseberries and cream
61
of shoots with sorrel, borage and beet shoots
62

feta
45

Fiennes, Celia,
The Journeys
189
,
192
,
194

figs in grape must preserve
106
in mostarda
106

fish loaf
160

Flammenkuchen
121

flan
246

Fletcher, John
73

Flint, John
168

florentines
116

Florio, John,
A Worlde of Wordes
67
,
99
,
300

flour for bread
220–21
for pasta
136–8

A Forme of Cury
103–4

Francatelli, Charles Elmé
19

Franklin, Alfred,
Comment on Devenait Patron
85

french bean salad
44

fresh cherries with verjuice and spices
101

fresh tomato sauce
82

friar’s chicken
155

frittata
42

fruit hot salad
3
set in ice
269

galantina
99

garam masala
97

garden salad
47

garlic
51–2
and lemon sauce or marinade
204

GARLIC PRESSES ARE UTTERLY USELESS
51
and
see
205

gatnabor
258

a Genoese pizza
236

Gentleman’s Relish
97
,
99

giblet gravy
174

Gilliers,
Le Cannameliste Français
268
,
288

ginger cream ice
280

ginger, green, in cream of parsnips
79

Glanville, Bartholomew de,
De proprietatibus rerum
88

Glasse, Hannah
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
265–8
,
271
The Compleat Confectioner
268

Godden, Jon & Rumer,
Shiva’s Pigeons
97

Goodman, Mrs Benny
161

goose rillettes
201

Gosetti della Scala, Anna,
Le Ricette Regionale Italiane
106

Gouffé, Jules,
Le Livre de Pâtisserie
120

Grand Marnier
282
and lemon ice cream
278
in apricot mousse
256
in Seville orange cream
256

granita
see
water ice

Granville, Grace Countess
195
,
198

grape must preserve, with figs, quince and pears
106

grapes (black); a relish
101

gratin of courgettes, tomatoes and eggs
42

gratin of rice and courgettes
56