India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (99 page)
If you’d rather forgo the sophistication, and don’t really need all that space anyway, preferring to leave your friends at home, then you need to head farther up the coast to the extreme north, between Asvem and Arambol, where you’ll find tranquillity on the beach at
Elsewhere . . ., a simple, paradisiacal kind of place that’s right on the sand, far from the touristy throng, and shot through with a lovely sense of the past. Fashion photographer Denzil Sequeira considers his ancestral property the biggest secret in Goa, but given how long you need to book in advance, word is definitely out. Away from the crowds, it has an absolutely stunning beach, several lovely, simple houses to stay in, and great food. It’s one of the most idyllic boutique properties in Goa, found at the end of a road and reached by crossing a bamboo footbridge through thick green groves—like all good hideaways, finding it nigh impossible, and once there you’ll seldom have the urge or inclination to leave. You won’t find chic interiors or heavy themed designs here: The two- and three-bedroom villas are filled with relics from the past—original tiles, collections of old altars, antique furniture, and planter’s chairs and deck beds on verandas and porches overlooking a distinctly tropical beach scene. In place of the obligatory pool you have the entire Arabian Sea to swim in, al fresco showers, and hammocks strung between the trees. Two of the villas, the Piggery and the Bakery, are air-conditioned, while the Priest’s House (where Denzil’s uncle once lived), and 125-year-old Captain’s House (where Brad Pitt and Angelina recently stayed) are more about the breeze. Coming here has a definite purpose—to take lazing about to new dimensions. Don’t expect to find shacks, vendors, or shops; but your hosts will help you with trips to the markets, restaurants, and party zones, if you desire. Come between October and February, and you may spot Olive Ridley and rare loggerhead turtles, since the beach out front is a protected nesting zone. The food is terrific, even though it tends to take forever to get it, and the staff is unobtrusive and ever helpful. And if you want to party, you can probably find something 15 to 20 minutes away. You’ll need to reserve well ahead; do it online at
www.aseascape.com
, or contact [email protected] (93-2602-0701
for last-minute bookings or emergencies only). You can expect to pay $1,477 to $2,404 per week; much more during the festive season.
Finally, if you don’t mind being quite close to some of the regular action, the former hippie headquarter village of Anjuna shelters one of the ultimate Goan hideaway “villas,” a rustic chic place named
The Hobbit
or 98-2005-5053;
www.thehobbitgoa.com
). Fashioned in and around a rock, this was once (minus windows, doors, and ceilings) the psychedelic digs of Anjuna’s famed ’70s hippies, and you’re likely to walk right past the boundary hedge before finding it. Refurbished by the extremely chilled-out Chinmayi and her husband, rally driver Farad Bathena, the Hobbit took birth in 2006, and comprises three boho-sexy rooms on two different levels, done up simply but tastefully (all with air-conditioning and private bathrooms); a sitting and dining room, meditation alcove, and kitchenette; and plenty of porches, a roof terrace, a tiny plunge pool, and semi-open bathrooms around exposed rock with sweeping views of the beach and the neighboring cliff. Even though you are right near the action (2 min. walking distance from the beach), the Hobbit remains secluded, there are unlikely to be any intrusions, but you do have TV, DVD, and Internet should you wish to maintain contact with the outside world. For meals, you can use the services of two nearby shacks—
Curly’s
(seafood) and
Shiva’s
(Israeli), which are more than happy to “home” deliver via your very own house attendants who go out of their way to make your stay comfortable. The Wednesday Flea Market is a stone’s throw away, and parties are fairly common in this area but (fortunately) not held on a nightly basis. Ask Chinmayi for the details if you want to make sure you’re at the right place at the right time—or far away from it. Rates are almost embarrassingly fair—Rs 9,900 to Rs 14,400 per night for the entire villa (six adults), including a one-way airport transfer, and housekeeping services, although substantially higher over Christmas and New Years; children under 12 stay free, and you’re responsible for your own meals. The Hobbit, like most villas in Goa, is closed during the monsoon (June–Sept).
Very Expensive
Situated on the short peninsula where the Portuguese built their defensive Aguada Fortress, is
Taj Fort Aguada
(0832/664-5858;
www.tajhotels.com
), a resort complex comprising three different properties (the Beach Resort, Hermitage, and Holiday Village) clustered together around one of the most spectacular locations in all of Goa. From up here, you get picture-postcard views of the beach, which stretches all the way to Baga, 8km (5 miles) north. Behind the main
Beach Resort
block are 42 cottages tucked almost invisibly among groves of lantana, cashew, and bougainvillea bush; these are the best places to stay at the Beach Resort (from Rs 18,250) although you don’t get a clear view of the sea from all. Alternatively, for absolute privacy (ideal for groups or families), consider one of the more exclusive
Hermitage
cottages (Rs 18,250–Rs 38,300 for a one-bedroom villa), built as a retreat for delegates during the 1983 meeting of the Commonwealth heads of government. The cottages are set amid terraced gardens of exotic orchids, bougainvilleas, cashew trees, jasmine, and Krishna ficus. Each villa has a separate living room; a dining area; one, two, or three bedrooms; two bathrooms; a
balcao
(balcony); and a private garden. Interiors are luxurious and include all modern amenities; request a villa near Sunset Point, where cocktails are served while the sun descends over the Arabian Sea. It’s quite a stiff climb between the cottages and the hotel lobby (shared with the Beach Resort) and if you’re feeling lazy, there are courtesy vehicles for the short transfer. Sharing the facilities is the more informal
Taj Holiday Village
(from Rs 13,250), fronted by Sinquerim Beach, with cottages and villas in reds, pinks, blues, and yellows scattered among towering coconut trees and lush vegetation. Accommodations at this resort vary considerably, ranging from lavish sea-facing villas to less desirable suites in clusters or duplex cottages. Although its facilities make it immensely popular with families, it wouldn’t be your first choice if you’re looking for peace and quiet. Facilities, as you can well imagine, are extensive, with every imaginable watersport and distraction laid on, including a spa and some of the finest restaurants in Goa; the head chef, Urbano de Rego, is widely acknowledged as the world’s greatest Goan chef, having created the restaurant versions of many classic local dishes.