India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (392 page)

EXPLORING PURI & THE SUN TEMPLE AT KONARK

Puri is 65km (40 miles) S of Bhubaneswar; Konark is 35km (22 miles) NE of Puri

Puri is considered one of the four holiest places in India, home to magnificent 15th-century
Sri Jagannath Temple,
where pilgrims throng to be absolved of past sins by the Lord of the Universe. But given that this is off-limits to non-Hindus, the real highlight lies farther up the coast, in the mellow town of Konark, site of the legendary 13th-century
Sun Temple.

Sri Jagannath Temple
Topped by Vishnu’s wheel and flag, the 64m (210-ft.)
shikhara
(spire) of Jagannath Temple dominates Puri’s skyline, and it’s possible to circumambulate the entire complex by wandering through the market streets around the periphery walls. However, for non-Hindus, the best view of this mighty Kalinga temple is from the balcony of
Raghunandan Library,
across the street. From here, you not only get a glimpse of the tremendously active temple life, but you’ll be privy to the colorful activity around the souvenir stalls that spread around the temple in every direction. From this viewing point, both the size of the temple and the sheer numbers of swarming people are impressive; the temple buildings themselves are filthy with mildew. Incidentally, you will find images of Lord Jagannath and his siblings everywhere in this part of India. Pitch-black with squat physiques and exaggerated features, they could well have been inspiration for the animation technique used by the creators of
South Park:
The crude, flat-featured, raccoon-eyed faces have thin red curling grins. You will be asked to sign a register on your way out with a column for donations with suspiciously high figures (for instance, two zeros added after Rs 20); in all fairness, make a donation, but don’t get conned.

Raghunandan Library is open daily 7am–noon and 4–8pm. All rickshaw drivers can show you the way.

Sun Temple
Visualized as the gigantic chariot of Surya, the sun god, emerging from the ocean, the Sun Temple at Konark was built (though not completed) at the zenith of Orissan architectural development, at the edge of a 483km (300-mile) beach. Guarded by stone elephants and mythical lions, the immense structure was carved from rock so as to look like an enormous war chariot (originally drawn by seven galloping horses), with detailed sculpted scenes of everyday facets of life. Even the spokes of the 24 giant wheels that adorn the base of the temple are intricately carved. The temple was at some point submerged by sand; when the ocean retreated just over a century ago, the temple that had been lost to the world was uncovered and excavated by the British, who consequently tried to carry away as much of it as they could but failed given the extraordinary dimensions of Indian sculpture. The entire complex is surrounded by a periphery wall. To first get an idea of the enormity of the project, circumnavigate the temple by slowly skirting this outer wall. The sanctum has collapsed inward, so it is no longer possible to enter the temple building, but you can clamber over most of the exterior for close-up views of the various scenes of love and war, trade and commerce, sports and mythical figures, and of course the four depictions of Surya in each of the directions. Among the friezes are those depicting amorous dalliances between entwined couples—these provide stiff competition for the world-renowned sculpted erotica at Khajuraho—including spokes with miniature examples of the erotic carvings found all over the rest of the temple.

The earlier you arrive, the better your chances of enjoying this World Heritage Site in peace. Definitely avoid visiting the temple on the weekend, when day-tripping local visitors swarm to Konark as part of a high-paced pilgrimage around Orissa’s golden circuit.

If you’re here during the first week of December, you may be able to catch the 5-day
Konark Dance Festival
, which offers performances by some of the country’s most sought-after dancers. The monument forms a remarkable backdrop to traditional dance styles accompanied by music played on classical Indian instruments.

Konark, 64km (40 miles) southeast of Bhubaneswar; 35km (21 miles) northeast of Puri. Rs 205. Sunrise–sunset. For information on the Konark Dance Festival, contact O.T.D.C. in Bhubaneswar (
0674/243-2382;
www.panthanivas.com
).

Where to Stay

Small, intimate, peaceful, and close to the beach,
Z Hotel
—the former seaside residence of the Raja of Serampore—is the best budget lodging in the state, offering huge, simply furnished guest rooms with sea views. Reserve room no. 25, 26, or 27 (
06752/22-2554;
www.zhotelindia.com
; doubles from Rs 700; no credit cards) well in advance to secure an upstairs unit with attached bathroom (drench shower only). Don’t miss the beach view from the rooftop which, unfortunately, also reveals Puri’s unchecked development. Alternatively, try
Toshali Sands,
en route to Konark (
06752/25-0571
through -0574;
www.toshalisands.com
; doubles from Rs 4,500). Though it’s never going to win any design awards, this is the closest acceptable accommodations to the Sun Temple. A beach lies nearby, and the restaurant’s not bad. “Villa” units are the best choices; they feature small sitting rooms, porches, shared kitchenettes, and big bathrooms with tubs. In Puri itself, the one reviewed below is the only one actually located on the beach itself while all the others are either away or across the road. Of these,
The Hans Coco Palms
(
06752/230-038;
www.hanshotels.com
) is the best pick with the usual facilities at hand, making it convenient, functional but entirely devoid of the “ah” factor.

Mayfair Beach Resort
This is the best place to stay in the vicinity of the Sun Temple by a long shot, popular with middle-class Indian families who come to strut their stuff on the wide expanse of beach, a short walk from the resort. However, service can be pretty surly. Disinterested staff members wear bright Hawaiian shirts, and the entrance and lobby areas are equally colorful, playing off the Jagannath Temple theme. The rough-hewn red-brick resort makes the most of its limited space, its gardens profuse with lovely trees, potted plants, and stone statues of various deities. Unless you can afford the presidential suite, book a garden cottage; it has a small sitting area, a semiprivate veranda, and a small shower room. Beyond the crow-infested pool, a nice stretch of beach is watched by the resort’s lifeguards, although hawkers still ply their trades. If the early checkout doesn’t suit you, the management should be able to help.