India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (233 page)
Jama Masjid
Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1656, this mosque took 5,000 laborers 6 years to complete and is still the largest in Asia, accommodating up to 25,000 worshipers during holy festivals such as Id. Sadly, non-Muslims are not allowed in during prayers, but photographs (sold elsewhere) of the thousands of supplicant worshipers provide some idea of the atmosphere as you wander the huge expanse within. The central pool is for washing hands, face, and feet; to the west (facing Mecca) is the main prayer hall with the traditional
mihrab
for the prayer leader. You can ascend to the top of the southern minaret to enjoy fantastic views from Old Delhi to the distinctly different rooftops and high-rises of New Delhi—the climb is pretty stiff, but worth it.
Note:
If your knees or shoulders are bare, you’ll have to rent a scarf or
lungi
(sarong or cloth) at the entrance to cover up.
Off Netaji Subhash Marg. Free admission; Rs 50 for minaret rooftop viewing; Rs 150 camera or video. Daily 8:30am–12:15pm and 1:45pm to half-hour before sunset; opens at 7am in summer. Closed during prayers 12:15–1:45pm. Shoes to be removed outside.
Lal Qila (Red Fort)Built by Shah Jahan, the most prolific architect and builder of the Mughal empire, Lal Qila must have been a very modern departure from labyrinthine Agra Fort (which is older but a great deal better preserved and atmospheric). It was the seat of Mughal power from 1639 to 1857. Named after the red sandstone used in its construction, Red Fort covers an area of almost 2km (1 1⁄4 miles). Visitors enter via three-story
Lahore Gate,
one of six impressive gateways. You’ll pass through
Chatta Chowk,
which has quaint shops selling cheap souvenirs (some rather nice handbags). You’ll arrive at
Naqqar Khana,
where the emperor’s musicians used to play. From here you look up into
Diwan-I-Am,
the 60-pillared “hall of public audience,” from where Emperor Shah Jahan used to listen to his subjects’ queries and complaints as he sat cross-legged upon the beautifully carved throne (an age-old custom that his despotic son, Aurangzeb, who cared little for his subjects, discontinued). Behind this lie
Rang Mahal,
the royal quarters of the wives and mistresses, and
Mumtaz Mahal,
probably used by a favored wife or by Princess Jahanara, who evoked such envy in her sister’s heart (see “Agra” introduction, later in this chapter). Next up are
Khas Mahal,
which housed the emperor’s personal quarters (he would greet his subjects across the Yamuna River from the balcony); gilded
Diwan-I-Khas,
where the emperor would hold court with his inner circle from the famous jewel-encrusted Peacock Throne (taken by Persian invader Nadir Shah in 1739 and still in Iran); and finally the
Hamams,
or royal baths, whose fountains of rose-scented water would give modern-day spas a run for their money. In front of the
hamams
is
Moti Masjid,
built by Aurangzeb exclusively for his own use—a far cry from the huge Jama Masjid his father built in order to celebrate the faith together with thousands of his subjects.
A few examples of beautiful carving, inlay, and gilding remain, particularly in Diwan-I-Khas, but after so many years of successive plunder it takes some contemplation (and a guide) to imagine just how plush and glorious the palaces and gardens must have been in their heyday; they were ruined when the British ripped up the gardens and built their ugly barracks (the fort is incidentally still a military stronghold, with much of it off-limits). Consider hiring a guide at the entrance, but negotiate the fee upfront and don’t expect much by way of dialogue (guides often speak English by rote and don’t understand queries); do expect to be hassled for more money. If you’re staying in an upmarket hotel, arrange a guide through the concierge.
Chandni Chowk.
011/2327-7705.
Rs 250 entry; Rs 25 video; Rs 100–Rs 150 guide. Tues–Sun sunrise–sunset. Evening light show 7:30pm Nov–Jan, 8:30pm Feb–Apr, 9pm May–Aug; Rs 60; information011/2327-4580.
New Delhi
Almost all of New Delhi’s attractions lie south of
Connaught Place,
which you will no doubt visit to make onward bookings, get cash, eat, or shop. Built on concentric circles surrounding a central park, the retail heart of New Delhi was designed by Robert Tor Russell in the late 1920s. With its deep colonnaded verandas, gleaming banks, and host of burger joints and pizzerias, it’s a far cry from Chandni Chowk but is still quite chaotic, crawling with touts and hucksters whose aim is to part you from your money as quickly and seductively as possible. From here, the closest attraction well worth visiting (unless you’re moving on to Jaipur) is
Jantar Mantar(daily sunrise–sunset), which lies on Sansad Marg, on the way to Rashtrapati Bhavan. It’s one of five open-air observatories built in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II, the eccentric genius who built Jaipur. The sculptural qualities of the huge instruments he designed are worth a visit alone, but note that Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, built by the same king, is both bigger and better preserved (see chapter 11).
The easiest way to take in central New Delhi’s imperial architecture—for many the chief attraction—is to drive to
India Gate,
built to commemorate those who died in World War I. There an eternal flame burns in memory of those who gave their lives in the 1971 Indo-Pakistan war, their names inscribed on the memorial. Sadly it’s hardly worth pausing here—the last time we visited, the beautiful lawns were slushy, unkempt and littered courtesy the hundreds who come every day, and the boating facility disfigured with canvas advertisements—but set off on foot west along
Rajpath
(the 3.2km/2-mile boulevard once known as King’s Way) to the beautifully ornate gates of
Rashtrapati Bhavan,
flanked by the two almost identical
Secretariat buildings
(see “New Delhi’s Imperial Architecture,” below).
Having covered the architectural attractions of New Delhi, you can double back to
The National Museum
(see below) or catch a ride to the
National Gallery of Modern Art,
which lies near India Gate (Jaipur House;011/2338-2835;
Rs 150; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm). Farther west lies
The Crafts Museum
(see below). Although the National Gallery is one of India’s largest museums of modern art, it’s pretty staid fare and unlikely to thrill those used to such Western shrines as London’s Tate or New York’s Museum of Modern Art.
Other museums you may consider in the area, particularly if you have an interest in the last 100 years of India’s history, are (all three are incidentally a short auto-rickshaw ride from each other, so easy to combine) as follow: Try the colonial bungalow where Gandhi stayed when he was in Delhi, and where he was assassinated; it’s in many ways more atmospheric than the museum near Raj Ghat in Old Delhi. You can visit it now in its present guise as the
Eternal Gandhi Multimedia Museum
at
Gandhi Smriti and Darshan Samiti(5 Tees January Marg;011/3095-7269;
www.eternalgandhi.org
; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, closed second Sat of the month).
Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
(Teen Murti Marg;011/2301-6734;
free admission; Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm) was the grand home of India’s own “Kennedy clan”: Nehru was India’s first prime minister, a role his daughter and grandson, Indira and Rajiv respectively, were also to play before both were assassinated. The mantle has now been passed on to Rajiv’s Italian wife Sonia, who holds the reins tightly as the President of the currently ruling Congress Party. Although Indians share a love-hate relationship with her (many feel she doesn’t have the right to become prime minister owing to her Italian origins), there is no denying the fact that she is one of the most well known and powerful women in politics. Her dimpled poster-boy son Rahul, although being groomed to become the PM eventually, is at present happy to concentrate on building up youth initiatives and raking controversies (considered as acts of immaturity or breaking conventions, depending on where you are standing), while his sister Priyanka prefers to play from behind the scenes and is considered by many as a young Indira. Those interested in contemporary Indian history may thus also wish to visit
Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum
(1 Safdarjung Rd.;011/2301-0094;
free admission; Tues–Sun 9:30am–4:45pm). A huge force in postindependence India (see “India Past to Present,” in chapter 2), Indira Gandhi was murdered here by her Sikh bodyguards. Among the displays (which provide a real sense of the woman) is her blood-soaked sari, as well as the clothes worn by her son Rajiv when he was killed in 1991.