India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (209 page)

Keshava Temple
Situated 38km (24 miles) from Mysore in the small village of Somnathpur, this is perhaps the best-preserved and most complete Hoysala monument in existence. Also referred to as Chennakeshava Temple, this beautiful religious monument is presided over by Vijayanarayana, one of the 24 incarnations of Vishnu. Built as early as 1268, it is constructed entirely of soapstone and rests on a raised plinth; typical of Hoysala temples, it has a star-shaped ground plan and exquisitely sculpted interiors. It’s really worth exploring in detail; you may have to urge or bribe the caretaker to crank up the generator so that you have enough light to properly observe the three shrines in the temple. Somnathpur is serene and remote, and the lawns around the monument are ideal for picnicking—ask your hotel for a packed lunch. The best time to photograph the temple is around 4:30pm, when the sun creates a fantastic play of shadow and light, especially along the row of pillars.

Somnathpur is 38km (24 miles) east of Mysore. Admission Rs 100. Daily 8am–5:30pm.

Maharajah’s Palace (Amba Vilas)
Generally considered
the
palace in South India, this was designed by Henry Irving at the turn of the 20th century; 15 years of nonstop construction produced a fabulous domed, arched, colonnaded, and turreted structure with lavish interiors—teak ceilings, carved marble handrails, gilded pillared halls, ivory deities, rococo lamp stands, Italian crystal chandeliers, stained-glass windows, miles of white marble floors, and ceilings made from stained glass brought all the way from Glasgow. You’ll be hard-pressed to find an undecorated section of wall or ceiling; frescoes, paintings, statues, and delicate relief carvings recall religious as well as secular scenes, including glorious state processions. Within the inner courtyards, growling stone felines guard stairways, while elsewhere, elaborately carved rosewood doors mark the entrances of yet more splendid halls and chambers. Paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, golden chariots, gilt-framed mirrors, stately family portraits (including a wax sculpture of the maharajah), and all manner of ornate fantasy objects add to the spectacle of abundant wealth. Overlooking the parade grounds, brought to life during the
Dussehra Festival
(Sept or Oct), a terraced grandstand pavilion is covered by a heavily decorated and frescoed ceiling, while huge, decaying chandeliers dangle precariously over the seating.

Don’t bother to purchase an additional ticket for the disappointing
Maharajah’s Residential Palace,
where, sadly, a display of items gathers dust.

Ramvilas Rd., Mizra Rd., and Purandara Rd.
0821/242-2620.
Admission: Amber Vilas Rs 20; Residential Palace Rs 20. Daily 10am–5:30pm.

WHERE TO STAY

Although small, Mysore offers a good variety of hotels, ranging from business hotels, heritage properties, and resorts, to dirt-cheap establishments. If you’re interested in the latter category, walk around Gandhi Square and take your pick, although expect nothing more than a bed and roof over your head. Or head for no-frills
Hotel Siddhartha
(Guest House Rd., Nazarbad;
0821/428-0999
or -0888; [email protected]), situated at a convenient distance from the palace, station, and bus stand. The rooms are small but are clean and functional. The range starts from Rs 860 to Rs 3,250—some rooms have Indian-style bathrooms (the toilet is sunk into the ground), so stipulate Western-style beforehand—203, 201 are the best in size and view. The in-house restaurant
Om Shanthi
has a great local atmosphere and is extremely popular with regulars, who have been coming for 25 years—
rawa dosai
,
mallige idli
(in Kannada “mallige” means jasmine, and these slightly flattened balls of rice flour are reputedly as soft as the flower itself), and the filter coffee are all top class. Adjacent,
Hotel Sandesh the Prince
is loud and gaudy in appearance but has decent rooms and offers all the basic facilities including a pool and gym (Guest House Rd., Nazarbad;
0821/243-6777;
doubles from Rs 3,995).
Regaalis
is the best business hotel and combines a fair amount of luxury with value for the money. The poolside barbecue is popular, while
Gardenia,
its multicuisine restaurant, serves the best buffet in town (13-14 Vinoba Rd., Mysore 570005;
0821/242-6426;
www.ushalexushotels.com
; doubles from Rs 4,600–Rs 7,500).
Ginger
(Nazarabad Mohalla
0821/663-3333;
www.gingerhotels.com
; doubles from Rs 1,800), a new budget option available across the country and managed by the Taj group, offers spotless accommodation in its now-familiar orange and blue shaded rooms.

Finally, for those looking to turn over a new leaf in wellness, 20 minutes from the city center is the verdant
Indus Valley Ayurvedic Centre
(Lalithadripura;
0821/247-3437
or -3263;
http://ayurindus.com
; ask about programs) offering excellent long-term therapies in peaceful surroundings. The pool is massive and cottages although simple, are more than adequate.

The Green Hotel
Built in the 1920s, this award-winning hotel has lots of character and faded glamour; it’s not luxurious but a stay here will have you feeling very good anyway. The hotel is owned by a charity that employs disadvantaged people at good wages and, true to its name, tries to be environmentally conscious. Light filters through stained-glass windows, and the large, open public spaces are swathed in teak and brimming with old-world charm, while interiors are full of a motley assortment of antique furniture and colorful memorabilia. The Palace has only seven rooms (avoid the tiny Rose and Marigold rooms), but the New Wing has plenty more, all garden-facing, although they lack the historical flavor.