India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (174 page)

If you prefer a more sanitized environment, browse the Taj Coromandel’s
Khazana Shop
(37 M.G. Rd.;
044/5500-2012
or -2827), where you’ll find a particularly good selection of top-quality silks, saris, and various objets d’art in an upmarket, luxurious environment (and pay the price). Across the road from the Coromandel,
Central Cottage Industries Emporium
(672 Anna Salai;
044/2433-0809
or -0898) is the fixed-price government emporium with a virtual monopoly on package tourist shoppers. Farther up the road is
Poompuhar,
the government emporium of Tamil Nadu (818 Anna Salai, near recommended bookstore Higginbothams), which has a better selection of art pieces unique to the state—this is a good place to pick up a Thanjore painting or woodcarving, or bronze figurines. Before you reach Poompuhar you will pass the respected
Victoria Technical Institute
(
www.vitichennai.com
), also on Anna Salai, which stocks predominantly paintings and carvings.

Cane & Bamboo
(21 Marshalls Rd., Egmore;
044/2852-8672
) is another good shop for curios and gifts—trays, bowls, spoons, lamps, and other handicrafts made of different types of wood sourced from all over India—and managed by the knowledgeable Mrs. Thangam Philip, who can tell you about the different artifacts she stocks. But perhaps our favorite Chennai shop is
Amethyst
at 14 Padmavathi Rd. in Gopalapuram
(see “Where to Dine,” above): an excellent collection of clothing, furniture, and souvenir handicrafts made with Indian fabrics and a mix of traditional and fab modern Indian design elements (look out for the Avadh collection of contemporary clothes from Lucknow with “retro” accents, and stunning jewelry made by Amrapali) and a great coffee shop where you can relax while pondering just what to purchase. Nearby is
Kalpa Druma
(71 Cathedral Rd., Gopalapuram; opposite Chola Sheraton
044/2811-7652
or -1695), spread across three buildings, one of them five stories high, for a huge variety of housewares, handicrafts, gifts, and antique furniture across all budgets—hard to believe that Chennai has the only outlet! Like Amethyst,
Chamiers
(85 Chamiers Rd,
24311495;
www.chamiersshop.com
) offers a holistic shopping experience, with a cafe where you can sip organic coffee or fruit juice. Aside from the variety of gifts, and the well-known international Indo-Western brand Anokhi, there’s Lokessh Ahuja, an interesting menswear range. Finally, even if you have absolutely no intention of buying a silk sari, you must visit
Nalli Chinnasami Chetty
(9 Nageswaran Rd., T. Nagar, near Panagal Park;
044/2434-4115;
www.nallisilk.com
), a Chennai institution, where you can’t help but fall in love with the exquisite silks, including the famous Kanchipuram silks. While on the busy shopping mecca of T. Nagar, look out for
Kazaana Jewellery
(the other outlet is on Cathedral Rd., the first shop in India to introduce a “guarantee card” to buy back any item at market rate); aside from quality saris and silks, T Nagar street is one of the best places to look for clothing bargains, while Pantheon Road is the place for cheap but attractive linen. And eco-warriors shouldn’t leave town without looking over
Prana: Live Natural
(D6 6th St., near Chintamani, Anna Nagar East;
044/4217-0077
): organic clothing for men and women, all natural or naturally dyed (or “safe-chemical” dyed).