India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (151 page)

Chandra, Surya & Vizhinjam

When Klaus Schleusener, a German professor who was based in Chennai in the ’70s and ’80s, first laid eyes on these aptly named beaches (Chandra means “moon,” for the moonrise; Surya means “sun,” above where it sets), he knew he had to own the cliff promontory that divided them. Naming the property Surya Samudra, Klaus built the original octagonal “Sea Front Deluxe” unit as his personal getaway. Alarmed at how centuries-old carved wooden cottages from villages around Kerala were being torn down to make way for modern homes—he came up with the inspired idea to transplant them, and so created a trend that helped set Kerala’s huge tourism industry in motion. Today he’s moved on (his enchanting new
Green Lagoon
in the Backwaters, is reviewed), but the resort he created survives, albeit now under differently minded businessfolk who, according to some, are intent on diminishing its appeal (see review below).

Located on the other side of Surya Samudra, on Chandra beach, is the very basic
Bethsaida Hermitage
resort (
0471/248-1554;
fax 0471/248-1554;
www.bethsaidahermitage.com
). This collection of thatched bamboo and stone beach cottages was begun by a local priest who wanted to start an eco-friendly endeavor that could be used to aid a local orphanage. It’s looking a little run-down at present and not worth booking unless you can reserve one of the most recently built “sea-view” rooms (60€–90€) behind the pool. These rooms are spotless, spacious, and close to the beach. Hot water is at the mercy of an occasionally moody electrical system, and you need to bring your own toiletries. Don’t arrive expecting luxury and you’ll feel good knowing that your room’s rate (slightly overpriced, considering) contributes to the welfare of some 2,500 children. We have had reports from regular guests of the generally wonderful staff getting drunk on the job and then taking a few days to recover—the result being absolutely no service whatsoever for the next few days—rather a daunting prospect. That incident happened over the Christmas–New Year period, however, but we’d strongly advise that you investigate fully the current status of management before booking here.

Out of sight, but not far from here, is
Coconut Bay Beach Resort
(
0471/248-0566;
www.coconutbay.com
), one of the most efficiently run resorts on the coast, with an unpretentious and low-key atmosphere and a very serious focus on Ayurveda. It’s small (only 27 units), but—as is the norm hereabouts—accommodations (which are pretty ordinary, with ugly furnishings) are in a variety of categories, scattered around a hodgepodge of lawns and coco palms strung with hammocks. In its favor, it’s right up against the beach, with a truly mellow atmosphere. If you’re a solo traveler, the best units are one of only five non-air-conditioned beach rooms (
098-4706-9654;
46€–71€ single, depending on season, including all meals), which are off to one side and right above the beach; book room 301 and you have a semiprivate veranda area with the best view at the resort. Great views, too, from deluxe beach villas 203, 205 and 206 (109€–153€ double with all meals) and superior deluxe villa 201 (152€–190€ double with all meals). As with all the Ayurvedic resorts (and this one, too, is Green Leaf accredited), the specialty here is on long-stay treatment packages, so check the website for the lowdown on all the deals.

Karikkathi Beach House
The tranquillity of its location—right on Surya Beach, but 400m (1,312 ft.) from the nearest vehicle access point—will leave you breathless. Though it’s not nearly as elevated at Surya Samudra (and you may miss the pool), the advantage here is the immediacy of the seafront. For this is a beach resort in the true sense—a set of two pretty bungalows that compel you to spend time dawdling across the sand and frolicking in the waves (you need to be a fairly strong swimmer). No resort activities and no meal times—you set your own rules. Each cottage has two en suite double bedrooms linked by a lounge. They’re exquisitely decorated—not too modern, and sufficiently rustic that you still feel yourself at the edge of the beach; very romantic. There’s no TV or air-conditioning, but plenty of natural ventilation (and fans) instead. We can hardly imagine a finer place to do nothing but imbibe the simpler things—fishing boats bobbing on the water, the moon glimmering off its surface, and a private staff to take care of you; meals are served in your cottage or on the verandah. Power outages are inevitable, but unlikely to spoil your mood.

Cliff Beach Garden, Mulloor Thottam (south of Kovalam, north of Chowara, via Nagar Bhagavathi Temple) Pulinkudi, Thiruvananthapuram 695 521.
098-4706-9654
or 0471/240-0956.
www.karikkathibeachhouse.com
. [email protected]. 2 cottages rented on an exclusive basis; rooms can also be rented individually. May–Oct 199€ per cottage, 99€ double room; Dec–Feb 390€ per cottage, 195 double room; extra bed 30% of double room rate. Prices vary other months. Rates include all meals and taxes. 71⁄2% discount for 7-night stays, 15% discount for 14-night stays. Ayurvedic packages available on weekly basis. MC, V.
Amenities:
Airport transfers (12€). In room: Fans.

Surya Samudra
This is Kerala’s most famous resort, and deservedly so. When we were researching this edition, an all-out renovation was underway, and neither the security guard nor builders would let us have a peek at what was going on. Surya traditionally accommodated a maximum of 44 guests, all in traditional-style cottages perched high on a terraced hillside overlooking the sea and two pretty beaches—and it has always been this setting, amid gardens of hibiscus trees, banyans, and coconut palms interspersed with rustic pathways and statues, that lent it immeasurable charm. Surya was never as slick as a five-star hotel, but the atmosphere was romantic and the setting totally glorious. They’ve added quite a few new cottages and have gone to town in terms of luxury, but we’re hoping the extensive upgrade of facilities won’t detract from the original charm and that it’ll emerge better than before, with a more attentive staff (which has traditionally been quite lazy) and many small details (like loose toilet seats) sorted out. But with the way development has been going along this stretch of Kerala, the recent expansion may, sadly, compromise the ambience completely.

Pulinkudi, Mullar P.O. Thiruvananthapuram 695 521.
0471/226-7333.
Fax 0471/226-7124.
www.suryasamudra.com
. 32 units. Oct–Apr 15 225€–250€ rock garden double, 300€–400€ heritage double, 1,100€ Banyan Tree Bungalow; Apr 16–Sept 140€–150€ rock garden double, 175€–225€ heritage double, 600€ Banyan Tree Bungalow; add 15% for extra bed. Massive hike in rates Dec 22–Jan 8 when a 4-night minimum stay is enforced. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, poolside bar; airport transfers (chargeable); Ayurvedic spa; babysitting (with prior booking); boating; small library; large outdoor pool; room service; yoga. In room: A/C, minibar.