How to Cook Indian (57 page)

1 pound (500 grams)
colocassia
(taro) roots, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) pieces

3 medium red onions, peeled and quartered

3 tablespoons white poppy seeds

2 cups (500 grams) plain yogurt

½ teaspoon red chile powder

1 teaspoon ground roasted cumin (page 32)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4 to 6 green cardamom pods

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 tablespoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ cup (50 ml) heavy cream

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add 1 quart (800 ml) oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, slide in the
colocassia
and cook until golden brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels; set aside.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water. When it comes to a boil, add the onion quarters and cook until soft. Drain, let cool, and place in a food processor. Process to a smooth paste and set aside in a small bowl.

3. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the poppy seeds. Dry-roast for 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl with ¼ cup (50 ml) water and soak for 30 minutes. Transfer the poppy seeds along with the water to the spice grinder and grind to a smooth paste.

4. Put the yogurt in a bowl, add the chile powder, cumin, and turmeric, and whisk until well blended.

5. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining oil. Add the cardamom, and when it starts to change color, add the onion paste and sauté until light golden brown. Add the ginger paste, garlic paste, and coriander. Stir well. Stir in the poppy seed paste and cook for 1 minute.

6. Add the yogurt mixture and bring to a boil. Add the
colocassia,
nutmeg,
garam masala,
salt, and 1 cup (200 ml) water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 30 minutes. (Alternatively, cover the pan with aluminum foil or seal the lid with
atta
dough (see page 36), so that the aroma is contained in the pan and does not escape.)

7. Stir in the cream and garnish with the cilantro. Serve hot.

Eriseri

Keralite yams and green bananas

Eriseri
is a popular dish in Kerala and is made with various combinations of vegetables and pulses. It forms an important part of the “Sadya” meal that is served on special occasions such as weddings, birthdays, and the arrival of a new baby.

You can use any vegetables here and adjust the quantity of peppercorns to suit your taste. You can also use some red chiles in addition to the peppercorns.

Serves 4.

1 pound (500 grams) yams, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

1 medium unripe banana, peeled and cut into ½-inch (1-cm) cubes

¾ cup (90 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

15 whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons table salt

¼ cup (50 ml) coconut oil

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

1. Wash the yams thoroughly under running water. Drain in a colander. Wash the banana and put in a bowl of water until ready to use.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add ½ cup of the coconut and dry-roast until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

3. Put the roasted coconut, peppercorns, and cumin in a spice grinder with ¼ cup (50 ml) water and grind to a smooth paste.

4. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 2 cups (400 ml) water. Add the turmeric and salt. When the water comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium, add the yams, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the banana and cook for 5 minutes.

5. Add the coconut paste and stir. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes or until the sauce thickens.

6. Meanwhile, place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds sputter, add the curry leaves and the remaining ¼ cup coconut, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add this tempering to the curry and cover immediately to trap the flavors.

7. Serve hot.

Feijoada

Goan-style kidney beans

Feijoada,
considered Brazil’s national dish, is a thick stew with heavy meats and beans. In Goa, where the cuisine is very much influenced by the Portuguese, the Indian version contains beans and Goan sausage. Personally, though, I find this vegetarian version to be just as tasty. Serve it with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

8 dried red chiles, broken

7 or 8 whole black peppercorns

10 whole cloves

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 cup (120 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 large red onions, chopped

2½ cups (560 grams) canned cooked red kidney beans

1 teaspoon table salt

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chiles, peppercorns, cloves, coriander, and cumin, and dry-roast for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Add the coconut and roast for 2 to 3 minutes. Cool slightly and transfer to a mini food processor. Add ¼ cup (50 ml) water and process to a smooth paste.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until lightly browned. Add the coconut paste and stir.

3. Add the beans and stir. Add the salt and tamarind pulp, and stir well. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Serve hot.

If using dried kidney
beans,
soak 1½ cups (360 grams) beans in 1 quart (800 ml) water overnight. Drain and cook in 6 cups (1200 ml) water for 1 hour or until the beans are soft. Proceed with the recipe.

Gatta Curry

Steamed
besan
dumplings in a yogurt-based spicy curry

We had a neighbor in Delhi who was from Rajasthan. She and my mom used to swap recipes and food. This curry entered our home, and the recipe has stayed, courtesy of one of those exchanges. I think my mother still makes the best
gatta curry;
sometimes she fries the dumplings and puts them in a typical Punjabi-style thick onion-tomato
masala
instead of the traditional Rajasthani yogurt curry that we have here. Serve this curry with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

For the
gatta
:

1½ cups (150 grams)
besan
(chickpea/gram flour)

Pinch of asafetida

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon red chile powder

½ teaspoon table salt Pinch of baking soda

½ teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

2 tablespoons plain yogurt

7 or 8 fresh mint leaves, chopped

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

For the sauce:

1½ cups (375 grams) plain yogurt

1 teaspoon red chile powder

2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon
besan
(chickpea/gram flour)

1 teaspoon table salt