Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook: A Seasonal, Vegetarian Cookbook (3 page)

Another option for adding color, whether contrasting or complementary, is sauces and garnishes. These sorts of toppings are both decorative and delicious. They can also make a major contribution to the mouthfeel or nutritional profile of a dish. At breakfast, try pouring
Blueberry Sauce
over
Coconut Quinoa Waffles with Sorghum Flour
. To add pizzazz to a pilaf, top
Coconut Jasmine Rice with Goji Berries and Shiitakes
with
Creamy Cilantro Sauce with Ginger
. For an extravaganza of colors, smother brown rice pasta or quinoa-corn pasta in
Tomato Sauce with Cauliflower, Olives, and Capers
and then garnish with a dollop of
Vegan Basil-Walnut Pesto
or
Cilantro Pesto
.

One of the joys of cooking with a variety and abundance of fresh seasonal produce is that the dishes you cook will often have attractive mosaic patterns of colors, as in
Millet Apple Raisin Cake
and
African-Spiced Coconut Teff and Red Lentil Stew with Collard Greens and Yams
. Plus, when a meal includes a rainbow of colors, it’s more healthful because it’s rich in antioxidants and a wide variety of phytonutrients. It’s also more likely to include all five tastes: sour, sweet, salty, bitter, and pungent. To me, the easiest way to balance a meal is by color.

Shapes

In addition to being dominated by earth tones, grains tend to be dense. Whether tiny and round, short and fat, long and thin, or almost flat, most whole grains have a fairly homogenous shape. But don’t feel confined to using just one grain at a time; you can begin to mix up the shapes by combining different grains. In the breakfast chapter, you’ll find a couple of innovative porridge recipes that combine oats and amaranth. Or go wild and use a trio of grains, as in
Power Pilaf with Brown Rice, Quinoa, and Wild Rice
. Though also a grain product, pastas offer a world of shapes, from classic elbows to playful spirals to threadlike Asian noodles. And with pastas, you’ll find that shape actually has a major impact on the final dish: a chunky sauce calls for a tubular pasta or other shapes that will hold the sauce, whereas long, thin strands of pasta are best with thin, fairly smooth sauces that will coat them evenly. But no one says you can’t do it the other way around if you feel like it!

As for fresh fruits and vegetables, for starters take the time to simply appreciate their wonderful shapes. In a finished dish, long spears of asparagus will create one impression, whereas whole cherry tomatoes will create quite another. Fruits and vegetables also provide a great opportunity to experiment with shape. If you’re like most people, you may be in a rut in how you cut them. Perhaps you always chop onions. Why not try half-moons, or even entire rings? Sure, it’s easier to slice carrots, but if you take the time to julienne them, they can mirror the shape of long noodles or provide contrast and interest to a basic pilaf. Slicing fruits and vegetables in different shapes definitely adds to the fun and aesthetics of any dish. And while you’re in the kitchen, also take the time to appreciate how shapes are transformed by cooking: how cubes of winter squash can dissolve into a soup with long, slow simmering; how quinoa grows a little tail when its cooked; how dried fruits become rounded and plump when soaked.

Textures

Though grains may be somewhat limited in terms of color and shape, they more than make up for it when it comes to texture, running the gamut from dense, smooth dishes like polenta to chewy wild rice to crispy granola. In the realm of desserts alone, grains and their flours can be used to create textures ranging from creamy
Mocha Coconut Rice Pudding
to dense, chewy
Hazelnut Brownies with Chocolate Chips
to crispy cookies made with teff flour.

When cooking whole grains, you can influence the final texture in several ways.
Chapter 2
will give more details, so for now let’s just take a quick look at how it works. The amount of cooking liquid makes a huge difference. For example, if you simmer 1 cup of brown rice with 2 cups of water, the rice will be heavy and chewy. If you cook it in 4 cups of water, it will be creamy and more suitable to a pudding. The more cooking liquid you use, the softer the food becomes. Cooking temperature can also influence texture, as can the way you bring the grain and cooking liquid together. If you add cold cooking liquid to a hot roasted grain and then boil and simmer, it will come out light, sticky, and chewy, with somewhat individual grains. If you add hot cooking liquid to a hot roasted grain and then boil and simmer, it will come out light and nutty flavored, with somewhat individual grains. If you start with grains at room temperature and cold liquid, the cooked grain will be heavy and sticky. (If that seems unappealing, just remember that this is exactly what you want when it comes to oatmeal.) If you sauté uncooked grains before cooking, they’ll come out soft, moist, and fairly heavy, with individual grains. And if you presoak grains before cooking them, or cook them in a pressure cooker in a rice crock (more on that in
chapter 2
), they’ll come out very soft, moist, and sticky.

To make any meal more satisfying, be sure to include contrasting textures. You can do that within a single dish. Sometimes a garnish is all you need, as when you top a creamy soup with minced herbs or sliced scallions. Or you can add crunchy nuts or seeds to cooked grains, as in many of the recipes in the side dishes chapter.
Jade Rice Pilaf with French Lentils and Toasted Walnuts
is a great example. Another satisfying combination is crunchy vegetables complementing soft cooked beans and pasta, as in
Summer Pasta and Bean Salad
. Another way to bring more textures to a meal is by pairing dishes with different textures. For example, smother a soft grain and bean with a luscious, hot, juicy sauce, as in
Red Lentil and Teff Loaf with Red Wine and Porcini Sauce
. And who wouldn’t love gooey melted cheese on steamy grains, as in
Corn Grits with Sautéed Onions, Kale, and Cheddar
, where chewy dark leafy greens add yet another textural element.

Alright. You’ve got your creative juices flowing, you’re committed to shopping and eating green, and you’re excited and intrigued about the world of gluten-free grains. I know you’re eager to get cooking, so turn the page and read on. In
chapter 1
, you’ll get to know all of the gluten-free grains.
Chapter 2
explains basic methods for cooking each and gives tips on how to expand your grain cookery beyond the basic boil and simmer. Then, the rest of the book takes you on a taste-tempting journey through a wide world of diverse gluten-free dishes. These aren’t just recipes for food, they’re recipes for a delicious adventure.

Let the adventure begin!

Before we get into our exploration of gluten-free grains, it’s worthwhile to take a few minutes to understand exactly what gluten is. Gluten is a protein that occurs in wheat and a few other grains. Or, more precisely, gluten is a protein complex comprised of gliadin and glutenin. In traditional bread baking with yeast, kneading helps knit those two proteins into gluten to create a strong, supple dough that’s capable of trapping gas bubbles created by the yeast. As a result, the dough expands, or rises. So far, so good. Unfortunately, these proteins also have a downside that you’re probably all too familiar with. They can be difficult to digest—or worse. So which grains contain gluten? The short answer is barley, rye, and wheat. A slightly longer list includes cousins or hybrids of those grains: farro, grano, kamut, spelt, and triticale. And which are gluten free? Here’s the moment you’ve been waiting for. Meet the gluten-free grains!

Gluten-Free Grains

• Amaranth
  
• Buckwheat
  
• Corn
  
• Millet
  
• Oats
  
• Quinoa
  
• Rice
  
• Sorghum
  
• Teff
  
• Wild rice
  

I’ll discuss all of the gluten-free grains in detail below, so you can better make their acquaintance. But first, let’s take a quick look at a few of the primary reasons people avoid gluten or wheat. The most serious reason is celiac disease. I won’t go into the details, but basically, in this disease the body has an immune reaction to gluten that damages the lining of the small intestine, causing a lot of problems and interfering with absorption of nutrients. People with celiac disease can’t afford to eat any gluten whatsoever. Wheat allergies can be equally serious if a severe allergic reaction occurs; fortunately, this is pretty rare. Less serious, but still troublesome, is wheat intolerance. This is a vague term, but it generally refers to difficulty in digesting wheat. Folks with this problem may be able to eat a bit of wheat, or they may find they better tolerate sprouted grains or some of wheat’s cousins, such as spelt.

But enough technical details! If you don’t fall into any of the categories described above, there’s still a great reason to explore gluten-free grains: expanding your choices and exciting your palate with scrumptious gluten-free whole grains. As hinted at in the introduction, many of them are also eco-friendly choices. As you read the descriptions that follow, you’ll notice that many of them are quite hardy and survive in more extreme conditions. This means they can be grown on more marginal croplands, and even when grown conventionally they’re typically treated with fewer toxic synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. Plus, many are nutritionally superior to wheat and other more common grains, and several even provide complete protein. This boils down to more net nutrition from every acre of cropland.

In the descriptions that follow, I’ll give you the highlights of each grain: history, nutritional benefits, flavor profile, and best uses, including information on other forms, such as flakes, grits, and flours. In
chapter 2
, I’ll provide basic cooking instructions for each grain. And, of course, the rest of the book is devoted to expanding your horizons and giving you a taste of the wide variety of fabulous dishes you can make with these grains. I know you’re eager to start cooking, so let’s get to it!

Amaranth

Amaranth, a tiny, slightly nutty flavored grain, is an ancient crop dating back thousands of years. The Aztecs believed it held the secret to long life and vitality and celebrated holidays by eating toasted amaranth. Amaranth is actually the seeds of a broad-leaved plant, not a cereal grass, so it isn’t technically a grain. However, it works well as a grain and also has a superior nutritional profile. It’s a complete protein, has more iron than most grains, and is also a great source of many other minerals.

Whole amaranth is delicious on its own or cooked in combination with other grains in pilafs, and it’s one of my favorites in warming morning porridges. You can also sprout amaranth, just as you would alfalfa seeds. In baking, amaranth flour will increase the protein content of baked goods while also lending them a pleasing nutty flavor. It’s especially delicious in combination with corn flour, as in the recipe for
Amaranth and Corn Flatbread
.

Buckwheat

Breathe a gluten-free sigh of relief. Despite the name “buckwheat,” it isn’t related to wheat, and in fact, it isn’t even technically a grain. It’s actually a relative of rhubarb that originated in Siberia. Like other psuedograins, such as amaranth and quinoa, it has a more impressive nutritional profile than true grains, being a complete protein, rich in iron, selenium, and zinc, and a fair source of B vitamins. It’s got other advantages that make it a good choice for an eco-conscious kitchen. It cooks very quickly (in just fifteen minutes). And because it’s so hardy, it can grow in very harsh conditions, so even commercial varieties are usually grown with few or no chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Because buckwheat hulls are so hard, they’re always removed. The resulting kernels, known as buckwheat groats, are white to pale green and have a mild flavor. You can cook them as is, or even sprout them, but they’re a lot tastier when roasted before cooking; in this form, buckwheat groats are known as kasha. You can purchase kasha, but it’s beyond simple to make your own. Just toast the buckwheat groats in a dry pan in a 375°F oven for about twenty minutes, and you’re good to go. I grew up on kasha in the form of kasha varnishkes, a dish made with sautéed onions and pasta. For an updated, gluten-free version of my mom’s winning recipe, see page 133. With its eastern European roots, kasha is a natural in stuffed cabbage rolls. It’s also tasty in croquettes, and marinated salads.

Buckwheat’s virtues don’t stop there. Buckwheat flour makes great pasta, and for anyone on a gluten-free diet (or anyone else, for that matter), 100% buckwheat soba comes to the rescue. Though it hails from Japan, don’t feel restricted to using these fabulous noodles in Asian fare. You can also use buckwheat flour in baking. Because it has a strong earthy flavor and creates a very dense, moist texture, it’s best used in moderation.

Corn

Corn is unusual in being both a fresh vegetable and a grain. The sweet corn we eat in summer is a relative newcomer that’s been bred to retain a maximum of sugar in the kernels as they mature. In the varieties used for corn flour and cornmeal, a lot of the sugar is converted into starch. These varieties come in a range of colors. While yellow is the most common, you can also find white, red, and blue, and the latter two can really enliven your plate with more color. Each has a slightly different nutritional profile, so mix it up and cook with different varieties. (Popcorn is another, distinctly different variety of corn.)

Like amaranth and quinoa, corn has a long history of cultivation in the New World and was venerated as a sacred food. Blue corn plays an especially important role in Hopi Indian culture, where it’s used in naming ceremonies and weddings. The Hopis also ate this nutritionally superior variety of corn to prepare for long journeys and strenuous tasks, and indeed it does contain more protein and complex carbohydrates than white corn—as well as an array of valuable phytonutrients. Because all varieties of corn are low in tryptophan and lysine, it isn’t a complete protein, but all varieties of corn are a good source of magnesium and thiamin, and a fairly good source of a few other minerals and B vitamins.

For use as a grain, corn comes in several forms: cornmeal in a rainbow of colors, corn flour, corn grits, and possibly popcorn and hominy, depending on how you think about it. Cornmeal comes in many grinds, from course to fine. Corn flour is simply a more finely ground version of cornmeal. Choose cornmeal for more texture and crunch, and use corn flour for a softer, smoother texture. Corn grits are a staple in my kitchen because they cook quickly and are delicious for breakfast, or at any time of day. For a super main dish made with grits, see
Corn Grits with Sautéed Onion, Kale, and Cheddar
. They combine nicely with millet and teff, and since all three cook quickly, you can prepare them in the same pot.

Millet

Millet is a catch-all term for several varieties of closely related grains. The type commonly available in the United States is yellow proso millet, a small, round, yellow grain. Though not widely eaten in the United States, millet is one of the earliest known cultivated grains, originating about five thousand years ago in China, where it’s still a staple. And because most varieties of millet thrive in hot, dry climates, it’s also a staple around the world, especially in Africa and India. Like most grains, it tends to be a little low in lysine, so it isn’t a complete protein. It is, however, a great source of magnesium, and a fair source of other minerals and some of the B vitamins.

Millet has a wonderful sweet taste. Because it isn’t fussy and cooks so quickly, you can toss it into any soup or stew about twenty minutes before it’s ready (this is a great way to thicken a dish that’s turned out too thin). When cooked, it sticks together, and once it cools you can slice it, making it a great choice for polenta, croquettes, loaves, and even cakes (check out the Millet Apple Raisin Cake on page 184). Millet is also available as grits, which you can use in all the same ways as corn grits, and flour.

Oats

Oats need no introduction. Thankfully this soothing, comforting grain is gluten-free, but be aware of one important caveat. Oats are often grown in close proximity to wheat and also often processed in the same facilities. For those with wheat intolerance, this shouldn’t pose a problem. However, if you have celiac disease, be sure to look for packages labeled gluten-free, which are carefully processed and packaged to avoid cross-contamination.

While oats may seem common, they too were revered in ancient times, in this case by the religions of northern Europe, where they still grow and thrive today. Beyond being a great go-to breakfast in the form of oatmeal, oats are commendable in terms of health benefits. They can help lower cholesterol, reduce blood pressure, and prevent heart disease and cancer. They also enhance immune system function, help stabilize blood sugar, and may even be helpful for insomnia, stress, anxiety, depression, and a variety of other health problems. Why? It may be partially due to the fact that the germ and most of the bran isn’t removed during processing, so almost any form of oats, no matter how processed, can be considered a whole grain. Because of this, they’re high in fiber, thiamin, and minerals. And perhaps most remarkably, oats have a great amino acid profile and are essentially a complete protein. Why this isn’t more widely touted, I have no idea.

If you already eat a lot of quick-cooking oatmeal, that’s a start. But I encourage you to broaden your horizons and use whole oats (oat groats) and steel-cut oats, in addition to rolled oats. All make a delicious breakfast cereal, cooked alone or with amaranth, teff, or other quick cooking grains. Because they’re bland on their own, add flavor (and nutrition) by throwing in some goji berries, coconut, or whatever dried or fresh fruit you like, and maybe a sprinkling of cinnamon. Of course rolled oats are also traditional in
granola
and fruit crisps (see pages 192 and 193). Oat flour makes a nice addition to pancakes, cookies, and other baked goods.

Quinoa

Quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wa), the mother grain of the Incas, was domesticated thousands of years ago from its wild cousins in the high Andes. True to its origins, it’s extremely hardy, surviving not only in the cold and at high altitudes, but also in hot, dry conditions. Like amaranth and buckwheat, it doesn’t come from a cereal grass, so it isn’t technically a grain. Quinoa is a species of goosefoot, and true to its name, its leaves are shaped like a goose’s foot. Like most of the other psuedograins, quinoa is a great source of protein—one of the best plant sources, in fact—because it contains all of the essential amino acids in a good balance. It’s also rich in folic acid and several minerals.

Like corn, quinoa comes in a rainbow of color; tan, red, and black are the most widely available varieties. Each has a slightly different texture and flavor, but generally speaking, quinoa has a light sesame-like flavor. Among its many virtues is that it cooks quickly: just fifteen minutes for whole quinoa. Cooked quinoa is great on its own or mixed with other grains, and it works beautifully in stews and salads. You can also get quinoa flakes and flour. The flour has a nutty, earthy flavor that enhances baked goods while also boosting the protein content. I especially like it in waffles. You can also use it to bind loaves, as in
Kasha Loaf with Walnuts and Sunflower Seeds
. And if all of that weren’t enough, you can also get quinoa pastas made with a combination of quinoa and corn flour. This truly is a marvelous grain!

Rice

As with oats, no one needs an introduction to rice, which is probably the most common staple food in the modern world. But you may need an introduction to some of the exotic varieties. Not that long ago, the rice selection in the United States was limited to white and brown rice in various forms. Given that literally thousands of types of rice are grown around the world, it’s about time we got the chance to broaden our horizons. And what a delicious and exciting world of rice it is, filled with exotic heirloom varieties in a wide array of colors and shapes, each with its own unique texture, flavor, aroma, and nutritional qualities. There’s no way I can give you an adequate introduction to all of these varieties, and the truth is, by the time you hold this book in your hands, a few more will probably have come to market. So rather than try to cover all the bases, I’ll just describe a few of my favorite varieties, all used in the recipes in this book.

Whole grain rice doesn’t have the spectacular nutritional benefits of some of the other grains in this chapter, but it is fairly rich in fiber, niacin, a few other B vitamins, and several minerals. But when it’s processed into white rice, almost all of its valuable nutrients are lost, so it offers little beyond starch. To help you explore the exciting world of whole grain rice, I’ll give you recipes for using rice in all of the usual ways—from pilaf, salad, and soup to simple preparations that make a great side dish or base for a stir-fry—as well as sensuous, creamy
Mocha Coconut Rice Pudding
and fun and fabulous nori rolls (see
chapter 5
).