French Classics Made Easy (87 page)

and walnut,
29

and watercress,
28
–29

green,
27
,
31

seafood:

with peaches or mangoes,
33

shrimp and scallops in an herbed lemon vinaigrette,
30
–31

tomato,
33

Salambos
,
227

Salmon:

fillets, grilled,
89
–90

poached:

with beurre blanc,
92
–93

with green mayonnaise,
93
–94

whole, served hot,
94

smoked, soufflé,
42

steaks, grilling,
90

Salmonella
,
333

Salt,
5
–6

excess, blanching to extract,
129

Sauceboats (
maigre-gras
),
110

Saucepans,
12

Sauces,
301
,
311
–36

aioli,
332
–33

basil,
333

basic,
312

béarnaise,
327
–29

with meat glaze,
329

with mint,
329

with tomatoes,
329

béchamel,
312
,
313

cheese-flavored (Mornay sauce),
312
,
313

enriched by heavy cream (
sauce crème
),
120
,
312

beurre blanc,
312
,
329
–30

basil,
330

chive,
330

tarragon,
330

watercress,
330

Bordelaise,
320
–21

brown, quick,
320

cream,
120

with fresh tomatoes,
70
–71

demi-glace,
312
,
319

dessert:

chocolate,
344

crème anglaise,
346
–47

raspberry coulis,
345

duxelles, for chicken,
187

game:

currant-pepper, creamy,
324

with pepper,
322
–24

pepper, creamy,
323
–24

high-altitude cooking and,
362

hollandaise,
312
,
326
–27

curdled, repairing,
327

horseradish, cold,
335
–36

Madeira,
319

mayonnaise,
312
,
331
–32

aioli,
332
–33

basil aioli,
333

green,
334

oils or vinegars with stronger flavors in,
331

remoulade sauce,
335

rouille,
333

separated, repairing,
332

Mornay,
314

port,
319

remoulade,
335

Robert
,
321
–22

rouille,
333

saffron, with fresh tomatoes,
317
–18

tarragon, creamy,
111
–12

techniques:

adding butter,
323

cooking until “thick enough to coat a spoon,”
346

reducing liquids,
321

skimming,
317

straining with fine-mesh sieve,
139

thickening,
311

warming or reheating,
10
,
11

tomato,
325
–26

velouté,
312
,
315
–16

enriched by egg yolks (
sauce allemande/parisienne
),
95
–97,
312

enriched by heavy cream (
sauce suprème
),
115
,
312

saffron-flavored, with fresh tomatoes,
317
–18

tomato-flavored,
316
–17

vinaigrette,
312
,
336

Sauces:

aïoli
,
332
–33

au basilic
,
333

allemande/parisienne
,
95
–97,
312

aurore
,
316
–17

béarnaise
,
327
–29

béchamel
,
312
,
313

beurre blanc
,
312
,
329
–30

au basilic
,
330

à la ciboulette
,
330

au cresson
,
330

à l’estragon
,
330

Bordelaise
,
320
–21

chevreuil
,
323
–24

au chocolat
,
344

Choron
,
329

crème
,
120
,
312

à la tomate fraîche
,
70
–71

crème pâtissière
,
347
–48

aux liqueurs
,
348

à la maïzena
,
349

au pralin
,
348

demi-glace
,
312
,
319

Foyot
or
Valois
,
329

grand veneur
,
324

hollandaise
,
312
,
326
–27

jus lié
,
312
,
318
–19

rapide
,
320

madère
,
319

mayonnaise
,
312
,
331
–32

Mornay
,
314

paloise
,
329

poivrade
,
322
–24

porto
,
319

raifort
,
335
–36

rémoulade
,
335

Robert
,
321
–22

rouille
,
333

sabayon
,
283
–84

au safran à la tomate fraîche
,
317
–18

suprème
,
115
,
312

tomate
,
325
–26

velouté
,
312
,
315
–16

verte
,
334

vinaigrette
,
312
,
336

Saumon:

filet(s) de
,

grillés
,
89
–90

poché sauce beurre blanc
,
92
–93

fumé, soufflé au
,
41
–42

poché sauce verte
,
93
–94

Sausage:

chicken and pork in a pot,
168
–69

light cassoulet,
167
–68

Sauté pans,
12

Savarin:

kirsch cake with fruit and whipped cream,
248

rum-soaked,
246
–48

Savarin:

chantilly aux fruits
,
248

au rhum
,
246
–48

Savarin molds,
247

Savoy-style potatoes (
pommes de terre savoyarde
),
202

Scales, kitchen,
12
,
361

Scallops:

bay, in mousseline ring with seafood in saffron-tomato sauce,
49
–50

sea:

American bouillabaisse,
99
–101

cleaning,
30

hidden, fish mousseline with,
51

puff pastry shells filled with seafood in white wine sauce,
76
–77

and shrimp in an herbed lemon vinaigrette,
30
–31

Seafood,
88
–106

lobster:

grilled,
104
–5

in spicy tomato sauce,
105
–6

in saffron-tomato sauce, mousseline ring with,
49
–50

salads:

with peaches or mangoes,
33

shrimp and scallops in an herbed lemon vinaigrette,
30
–31

in white wine sauce, puffpastry shells filled with,
76
–77

see also
Fish; Shrimp

Seasoning, adjusting,
7
–8

Shallots, glazed,
181

Sharpening tools,
11
,
12

Shells, puff-pastry:

filled with seafood in white wine sauce,
76
–77

making,
77

à la Normande,
77

Sherry vinegar, chicken with,
121
–22

Shrimp:

American bouillabaisse,
99
–101

with curry, ginger, and tomato,
103

fish mousseline, basic,
48
–49

mousseline ring with seafood in saffron-tomato sauce,
49
–50

à la Provençale,
102

puff pastry shells filled with seafood in white wine sauce,
76
–77

sauce, sole fillets with poached mushrooms and,
95
–97

and scallops in an herbed lemon vinaigrette,
30
–31

shelling and deveining,
101

shells, making stock with,
307

Sides.
See
Accompaniments

Sieves, fine-mesh,
139

Sifting flour,
237

Silicone liners,
12

Sirops:

de café
,
358

de sucre
,
359

Skillets,
12

Skimmers,
12

Skimming sauces,
317

Slicing on diagonal,
7

Smoked salmon soufflé,
42

Sole:

deep-fried fish fingers with parsley and onion rings,
98

fillets with poached mushrooms and shrimp sauce,
95
–97

Sole:

filet de, Granville
,
95
–96

goujonnettes de
(
filets de sole en goujon
),
98

Sorbet,
287
–90

almond cake with fruit and,
245

basic recipe,
287
–88

blueberry,
288

chocolate-orange,
290

grapefruit,
289

lemon or lime,
288

mango,
289

melon,
289

pear,
288

pineapple,
288

raspberry,
288

serving,
289

strawberry,
288

tropical fruit, with rum,
289

Sorbet
,
287
–90