French Classics Made Easy (44 page)

Savory Cream-Puff Pastry (
page 221
)

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 quarts light vegetable or peanut oil, for deep-frying

1.
Dry the mashed potatoes a little by stirring them in a saucepan over medium heat until they begin to lightly coat the pan.

2.
Mix the potato and cream-puff pastry together and season with the salt and pepper.

3.
In a deep-fryer, bring the oil to 375°F. Drop the mixture by teaspoonfuls into the hot oil and cook until puffed and a rich brown color, 2 to 3 minutes.

4.
Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt to taste. Serve very hot.

NOTE

Do not use a food processor to mash the potatoes or they will be pasty.

VARIATIONS

In addition to the specific variations below, you can also mix 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, ¼ pound chopped cooked ham or chicken, or ¼ pound grated cheese or combinations of any of the above into the pastry mixture.

P
OTATO
P
UFFS WITH
S
PINACH

[POMMES DE TERRE ELISABETH]

Add ¼ pound spinach that has been cooked, squeezed dry, and chopped to the potato and pastry mixture.

T
RUFFLED
P
OTATO
P
UFFS

[POMMES DE TERRE IDÉALES]

Add 1 large julienned truffle to the potato and pastry mixture.

ROASTED POTATOES

[POMMES DE TERRE RÔTIES]

Traditional
pommes de terre rôties
are small potatoes—or large potatoes cut to resemble small ones—that are roasted and served with roast beef, roast lamb, and roast chicken.

Always remember to shake the pan frequently to make sure none of the potatoes stick. Once cooked, remove the potatoes from the hot pan. If you are not ready to serve them, they can be reheated in a hot oven for 5 minutes.

SERVES 6

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter

18 small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, or 6 large potatoes, peeled and quartered

¼ teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground pepper

1.
Preheat the oven to 475°F.

2.
In a roasting pan large enough to hold the potatoes in one layer, melt the butter in the oven or on top of the stove. Add the potatoes, shaking the pan to coat them with butter.

3.
Place the pan in the oven. Shake the pan frequently, about every 10 minutes, making sure none of the potatoes stick to the pan. Turn the potatoes if necessary, to brown evenly. Cook until well browned, crisp on the outside, and tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the hot butter, sprinkle with the salt and pepper, and serve.

IN ADDITION

Another method of preparing the potatoes is to place them in a large roasting pan surrounding a roast, and, in 45 minutes to 1 hour, the potatoes will be crisp and brown on the outside and soft and tender inside.

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES

[PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE À L’AIL]

Mashed potatoes are always popular, and this version, with its added delicate flavor of garlic, never fails to delight.

A classic French purée of potatoes is first dried by being stirred over heat before it is moistened with milk or cream and enriched with butter. Although delicious, I prefer to save all those calories for dessert. The following recipe uses only the flavorful cooking water to produce a light and healthful purée that can be consumed without guilt. When the flavor of garlic does not complement the rest of your meal, simply omit it.

If preparing the potatoes in advance, cover the surface with plastic wrap or a little milk to prevent them from drying out. Keep warm or reheat in a water bath (
bain-marie
) to prevent the potatoes from scorching on the bottom of the pan.

SERVES 6 TO 8

8 large Yukon Gold potatoes

8 cloves garlic, peeled

¾ teaspoon salt Milk (optional)

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks. Place them in cold water until you are ready to cook them.

2.
To cook, place the potatoes and garlic in a 4-quart pot and barely cover with water (the tips of several potatoes will not be covered). Add ½ teaspoon of the salt and bring to a boil over high heat.

3.
Boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. The potato is tender when a point of a knife goes in and out without the potato clinging to it. Drain the potatoes and garlic, reserving the cooking liquid (about ⅔ cup).

4.
Purée the potatoes and garlic using a potato masher, food mill, or similar device. Do not use a food processor as it will cause the potatoes to become pasty. Moisten the purée with the reserved cooking liquid until the desired consistency is reached. If more liquid is necessary, use milk. Season with the remaining salt and the pepper.

BOILED WHITE RICE

[RIZ AU BLANC]

This is the easiest method I know of preparing fluffy white rice. It is ideal to serve with any sauce, but is especially suited to white sauces. It is also the best way to cook rice that is destined for a stuffing or a salad. Classically, the rice is first cooked in a large quantity of water, then drained, rinsed, and either towel dried or steam dried in an oven. The rice can be cooked in advance and reheated for serving. I simplify the drying and reheating process by steaming the rice quickly just before serving. Some people prefer their rice firmer than others, and I have indicated a cooking time of 15 to 18 minutes. Start tasting the rice after 15 minutes, and stop the cooking when the rice reaches the texture you prefer. The only equipment needed for steaming is a metal strainer.

SERVES 4

1½ quarts water

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup long-grain white rice

1.
In a medium-size saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the salt and the rice and stir, making sure none sticks to the bottom of the pan. Boil for 15 to 18 minutes. The water needs to boil constantly to keep the rice moving so it does not stick to the pan. Taste the rice to determine when you want to stop the cooking.

2.
Drain the rice into a metal strainer and rinse well under warm or cold water to remove the excess starch. Place the strainer over the pan used for cooking the rice and allow to drain.

3.
To reheat and serve: Fill the pan with at least 1 inch of water. Place the strainer in the pan and cover with a lid. (The strainer should not touch the water.) Steam the rice for about 5 minutes, or until hot. Blot the bottom of the strainer with several layers of paper towel or a folded kitchen towel to absorb any excess moisture, and then empty the strainer of rice into a hot bowl and serve.

RICE PILAF

[RIZPILAF]

Rice pilaf is a basic recipe with great versatility. The standard ratio of liquid to rice is 2 to 1. If you prefer your rice softer and moister, add another ½ cup of liquid. If you prefer the rice to be firmer, use ¼ cup less.

Once you know the basic technique, you can create your own variations to complement whatever you are serving. Here are a few suggestions: You can use chicken, beef, fish, or vegetable stock; and you can flavor the stocks with herbs, or spices such as curry or saffron. You can cook a few sliced mushrooms or some diced ham with the rice, or you can chop up dried fruit and nuts and add them to the rice before serving. Don’t use all of these suggestions in one recipe, but experiment with combinations.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons butter

½ onion, chopped

1 cup long-grain white rice

2 cups water or stock

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1.
In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook several minutes until softened but not browned. Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until the rice takes on a milky opaque appearance, 1 to 2 minutes.

2.
Add the water or stock, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Stir, making sure the rice does not stick to the pan. Reduce the heat, cover tightly, and cook for 18 minutes over very low heat.

3.
Remove the pan from the heat. (The rice will remain hot for 20 minutes and can be kept warm in a water bath [
bain-marie
] or 200°F oven.)

4.
To serve: Fluff the rice with a fork, adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and transfer to a warm serving bowl.

IN ADDITION

You can also bake the pilaf. In step 1, sauté the onion and rice in the butter in a flameproof casserole or ovenproof saucepan. Add the stock, salt, and pepper, bring to a boil, cover tightly, and bake in a 300°F oven for 18 minutes.

Q
UICK
S
TOCKS FOR
R
ICE
P
ILAF

When making a rice pilaf, you can make a quick, light stock to use in place of the water. For example, you may have some poultry parts (not the livers) or shrimp shells left over from another recipe that together with some onion and mushroom trimmings and a few sprigs of parsley can be simmered in 2½ cups of water to produce a light, flavorful stock in less than 20 minutes.

WILD RICE
WITH MUSHROOMS

[RIZ SAUVAGE FORESTIÈRE]

Wild rice, a purely North American product still harvested to a large degree by Native Americans, is becoming a present-day classic in France. Some of their finest restaurants import it to offer on their menus. I find that its earthy color and flavor, combined with its slightly crunchy texture, make it an ideal companion for duck, squab, and game birds in general.

SERVES 8

8 ounces wild rice, rinsed in cold water

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter

1 small onion or 3 shallots, chopped

¾ pound cultivated or wild mushrooms, washed, dried, and chopped

4 chicken livers, chopped (optional; see Note)

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

10 sprigs parsley, chopped

1.
Place the wild rice in a large saucepan with 5 quarts of water. Bring to a boil and cook until the rice grains open and are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain and rinse the rice under cold water. Set aside.

2.
In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, turn the heat to high, and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the livers and cook quickly, about 30 seconds. Season with the salt and pepper and add the mixture to the rice. Stir in the parsley; taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

3.
Reheat the rice mixture, covered, in a water bath (
bain-marie
) or in a 200°F oven until hot, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve.

L
ADLES

Most people probably don’t realize that ladles come in sizes and can be used to measure ingredients. A 1-cup ladle is the most common size, although I also use ½-cup and ¼-cup ladles. The size is often marked (in ounces) on the ladle’s handle.

A ladle is particularly useful for transferring a measured amount of hot liquid from one pot to another. Instead of pouring the hot liquid into a measuring cup and then into your pan or work bowl, simply ladle out what you need.

I often use a ladle for making rice pilaf, which is made with two parts water or stock to one part rice. Just measure the rice in the ladle, then scoop up twice as much liquid to pour over the rice.

U
SING A
M
ICROWAVE
O
VEN FOR
R
EHEATING

Although many recipes can be reheated in a microwave oven, I was surprised and disappointed to find that when reheating wild rice this way, it had lost its good flavor. For this reason, I do not recommend using the microwave oven to reheat any wild rice recipes. It is, however, especially good for reheating vegetable purées, sauces,
ragoûts,
and dishes with a dense consistency that take longer to reheat, such as the Light Cassoulet (
page 167
).