Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats (62 page)

Chorea

Usually an after-effect of the distemper virus infection, chorea is a condition in which some muscle in the body (usually a leg, hip, or shoulder) twitches every few seconds, sometimes even during sleep. It results from damage to part of the spinal cord or brain. Most pets with chorea are put to sleep because it is not considered curable; however, once in a rare while a spontaneous recovery occurs. I think it is worth giving alternative therapy a try, as it will improve the odds. See relevant information about diet and herbs under “Behavior Problems.” In addition, try this specific treatment plan. All of these are to be given according to Homeopathic Schedule 4 (
view
).

Homeopathic
—
Nux vomica
30C: After this treatment, wait and observe for 2 weeks. If there is no change for the better, then use the next treatment.

Homeopathic
—
Belladonna
30C: Again dose, then watch and wait for a 2-week period. If this noticeably helps but does not completely eliminate it, then use…

Homeopathic
—
Calcarea carbonica
30C.

Another remedy to consider is
Silicea
30C, especially if these other medicines have had no effect. Give one dose and allow it to act for several weeks.

If this has still not solved the problem, there are other medicines that can be used, but you will need guidance from a homeopathic veterinarian.

Feline Panleukopenia (Feline Distemper; Infectious Enteritis)

This disease of cats comes on suddenly and severely, without apparent warning, commonly killing young kittens within 24 to 48 hours. The associated virus is thought to be spread through urine, feces, saliva, or the vomit of an infected cat. Epidemics are prevalent.

After an incubation period of two to nine days (usually six), the first signs are a high fever (up to 105 degrees F.; 40.6 degrees C.), severe depression, and severe dehydration. Vomiting often follows soon afterward. Initially, it is a clear fluid; later, it’s tinged yellow with bile. Typically, the cat will lie with its head hanging over the edge of its water dish, not moving except to lap water or vomit.

Apparently, it’s not the panleukopenia virus itself that produces these severe symptoms, but a secondary infection that results from the destruction of various tissues, including the white cells (which protect the body against infections). In many cases they are almost eliminated, which opens the door to the growth of other bacteria or viruses. In many ways this disease is very similar to the parvovirus infection of dogs.

T
REATMENT

The most crucial factor in successful treatment is to catch the disorder in its earliest
stages. Since young animals can die very quickly, there often isn’t enough time to get a home treatment under way. Clinical methods like whole-blood transfusion, fluid therapy, and antibiotics can be successful if started early, so get professional care if possible.

If you aren’t able to get such care right away and you are prepared with supplies, here is a regimen I suggest: As long as there is fever or vomiting, fast the animal on liquids (chapter 15). Administer high doses of vitamin C, about 100 milligrams per hour to very small kittens and 250 milligrams per hour to young and adult cats. It’s easier to give it as sodium ascorbate powder. Use a pinch to make a 100-milligram solution or 1⁄16 teaspoon for a 250-milligram solution. Mix the sodium ascorbate with water and give orally.

If vomiting causes both the loss of essential fluids and the vitamin C you have administered (characterized by a rough hair coat, dry-looking eyes, and skin that is stiff when pulled up), focus on using the following homeopathic treatment alone until symptoms are improved. Then go back to giving vitamin C along with the homeopathic treatment. Use Schedule 1, (
view
), for both these remedies.

Homeopathic
—
Veratrum album
(white hellebore) 6C: Use this if the cat is weak, depressed, and cold, with vomiting (aggravated by drinking water) and diarrhea. If there is improvement, gradually decrease how often you give it over the next couple of days. Eventually, give 1 tablet at a time when there is any recurring nausea or lethargy.

Homeopathic
—
Phosphorus
6C: This is the best choice for a cat that is limp, with extreme lethargy and apathy. If you pick the cat up, it will hang over your hand like a damp rag. If alert enough, it will also be thirsty for cold water, yet vomit about 10 to 20 minutes after drinking. The cat that should be treated with phosphorus has less coldness but more listlessness than the cat treated with
Veratrum album
.

If you find that despite either treatment, the vomiting is very severe and life-threatening, then follow the advice under “Vomiting.”

Herbal
—If you have them in stock, consider this alternative herbal treatment: Mix 1 teaspoon of the tincture or decoction of purple cone flower (
Echinacea angustifolia
) with 1 teaspoon of the tincture or decoction of boneset (
Eupatorium perfoliatum
) in ½ cup pure water. Give 1 drop of the mixture every hour until you see improvement, then reduce to every 2 hours until recovery.

If the cat is already very ill and close to death, you’ll need a different approach. Such a cat will lie in a comatose state, hardly moving. Its ears and feet will feel very cold to the touch. Its nose may have a bluish look. As an emergency measure, administer camphor. Use an ointment containing camphor, such as Tiger Balm. Hold a small dab in front of the cat’s nose so that a few breaths will carry in the odor. Repeat every 15 minutes until there is a response.

Once you see improvement you can go to one of the other treatments outlined. Be sure to discontinue the camphor and remove it from the vicinity when homeopathic or herbal remedies are used, or it will counter their effects.

Recovery

Once the cat is obviously getting well and the fever is gone (a temperature less than 101.5°F. or 38.6°C.), give solid food once again. Follow the diet and supplement instructions for canine distemper. Offer raw beef liver for a few days, which is a good “tonic” for cats. Take care to minimize stress and avoid chilling for several days after the initial recovery, as a relapse is possible. Continue the vitamin C at reduced levels (250 to 500 milligrams twice daily) for two weeks to prevent complications or residual effects.

DYSENTERY

See “Diarrhea and Dysentery.”

EAR MITES

See “Ear Problems.”

EAR PROBLEMS

Inflammation, irritation, pain, and swelling of the ears are common problems for both dogs and cats, often reflecting allergy or skin problems that also manifest in other parts of the body. Such allergies express themselves periodically as a sudden redness or flushing of the skin, perhaps after a meal during specific times of the year, such as pollen season. A dog with ear problems is likely an allergy victim if it also chews its front feet excessively and scoots its rear end along the floor or ground.

Cats can develop a similar problem, with an accumulation of dark wax or oily material in the ears, causing itching and head shaking. Ear mites are another possible cause of cat ear trouble, but more often it’s allergies.

“Allergy Ears”

It’s important to understand that the larger issue of allergies usually underlies an ear problem. Otherwise, you might just focus on the ears and ignore the rest of the situation or even make the situation worse if the ear treatment is suppressive. For more information on the underlying problem, see “Allergies.” Here we will look at helpful ways to care for the ears, whether or not they are part of that larger problem.

Keeping the ears clean of discharges and secretions is very helpful in reducing irritation. Choose one of these three alternatives.

Herbal
—Calendula: If the discharge is watery, smelly, and thin, flush and massage the ear canal once or twice a day with a solution of 1 cup of pure water (distilled, spring, or filtered), 1 teaspoon of a tincture or glycerin extract of marigold flower buds (
Calendula officinalis
), and ¼ teaspoon sea salt (see
chapter 15 for more information on treatment of the ears).

Herbal
—Aloe vera: For ears that are painful, sensitive, and raw looking inside but have little discharge, treat in the same way as above, but use fresh juice or a liquid gel preparation made from the leaves of the aloe vera plant.

Herbal
—Sweet almond oil (almond oil): To soften and dissolve dark, waxy, oily ear discharge, flush and massage the ear canal with sweet almond oil (
Prunus amydalus
), which is also soothing and healing to the skin. If the ear is painful as well, alternate with the aloe treatment on a different day (oil and water don’t blend well).

Herbal
—Green tea: For ears that are producing mostly dark, smelly material. First, clean them with the almond oil (above) then use this treatment starting the next day. Put 2 bags (or 2 teaspoons loose tea) in a mug, add boiling water, and steep for 15 minutes. Strain and use warm to flush the ears. You can do this twice a day.

Along with one of these cleaning methods, it’s helpful to use:

Homeopathic
—
Pulsatilla
(windflower) 6C: The ear will be very swollen, red, and painful. The dog or cat will be submissive and “pitiful” with the ear problem and want to be held or comforted. Use Schedule 1 (
view
). Continue only if it is helping.

Homeopathic
—
Silicea
(silicon dioxide, quartz) 30C: If Pulsatilla noticeably helped but did not last or completely clear up the problem, then give this remedy to finish the treatment. Give one dose.

Homeopathic
—
Belladonna
(deadly nightshade) 6C: Indicated if the ear has flared up suddenly, with much heat and redness in that area. Often there will be a slight fever. The pupils will be dilated even in a lighted room. The dog or cat will be agitated and excitable. Use Schedule 1 (
view
).

Homeopathic
—
Calcarea carbonica
(calcium carbonate) 30C: If treatment with Belladonna has been strikingly effective, then wait 2–3 days after finishing that treatment and give one dose of this remedy to prevent the problem from returning in the future.

Homeopathic
—
Hepar sulphuris calcareum
(calcium sulphide) 30C: These ears are extremely painful. The animal will not allow them to be touched and will bite if you persist. Use Homeopathic Schedule 2.

Homeopathic
—
Graphites
(black lead) 30C: If other treatments have failed and the problem persists as itchy, sensitive ears, then try this remedy. Use Homeopathic Schedule 4.

There are several other factors that can complicate and aggravate allergy-related ear problems or that may be problems in their own right. For many breeds of dogs, the major factor has to do with the shape of their ears. Other minor and associated causes are water in the ear canal, which predisposes the ear to infections, trapped foxtails or other plant awns, and ear mites (a parasite, more often found in cats). Let’s examine each of these.

Anatomical Problems

In nature, canine ears evolved to stand upright from the head—the best design both for hearing and for ear health. An upright ear like that of a wolf or coyote works well to funnel sounds directly into the ear canal. It also allows a proper exchange of air and moisture between the ear canal and the outside. If water should get in the ear, head-shaking and free flow of air will soon reduce the humidity to the proper level. Throughout thousands of years of raising domestic dogs, however, people selected many with heavier, hairier ears that tended to fold over or hang down a bit (basically a puppy trait). Maybe they seemed cute, or perhaps they just happened to accompany some other feature the people desired.

In any case, floppy ears have caused a great deal of unnecessary suffering for dogs and expense for people. A hanging ear creates an effective trap. It closes off the ear canal from the free exchange of air and moisture and makes it easier for stickers and debris to get stuck inside. Some breeds, like poodles, even have hair growing inside the ear canal, making the problem worse. With this in mind, now let’s look at three complicating factors in ear problems. While they may afflict any dog, all three are inevitably worse in dogs with floppy ears.

Water in the Ear Canal

Many dogs enjoy a good swim. Invariably, they get water (sometimes not so clean) down their ears. In excess, such moisture can lead to a condition much like swimmer’s ear in people—a low-grade irritation that can occasionally develop into more serious infections.

If your dog has this tendency, flush out the ears after a swim with a slightly acidic solution of warm water and lemon juice (figure about half a small, fresh-squeezed lemon to a cup of water; alternatively, use about a tablespoon of white (or apple) vinegar to a cup of water). This will diminish the chance of bacterial or fungal infection and is also healing to the ear tissue. If either preparation seems to “burn,” dilute the mixture further with warm water. With the help of a dropper or small cup, fill and then massage the ear canal from the outside (see ear care instructions, Chapter 15). Afterward, allow the animal to shake its head well (it’s hard to keep them from it!). Blot off all the excess moisture from the inside ear with a tissue and gently swab out just inside the ear opening with a cotton swab. Remember, you are just absorbing moisture; do not rub against the skin.

As an additional precaution, you can clothespin or tie the ears up behind the head to allow them to dry out further. Do not pin or tie the ear itself, only the hair at the end. Also, if hair grows inside your dog’s ears, ask your vet or groomer to show you how to pull it out every so often.