Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats (40 page)

If you and your pet have a close bond, the animal could grieve during an absence that lasts several days or more, unaware that you plan to return soon. A long absence can sometimes lead to such an emotional upset—particularly for a dog—that your pet remains depressed for weeks after your return. In fact, it could spell the beginning of the end for a weak animal.

A deeply concerned woman wrote me this letter.

My dog, Lassie, will soon be 18. We’ve had
family troubles including several deaths in
these last two years, and now my husband
and I are planning a ten-day cruise which
we believe is necessary for our own health.
But we will have to leave Lassie in a kennel.
I read in a book that if you leave an old dog
in a kennel, it might not last until you return.
This has troubled us terribly, as Lassie
is so accustomed to our care. Do you have
any suggestions on how to care for our wonderful
mutt, who has served us so well?

I sympathize with their plight. Not only would Lassie miss her human companions at a kennel, but she would be confined in a strange and perhaps uncomfortable run or cage, surrounded by barking and whining animals that might disturb her rest. She might not accept the unfamiliar food offered her; while in that stressed and weakened state, she could be susceptible to such diseases as “kennel cough,” a contagious respiratory ailment (common where groups of dogs are housed). Even some younger animals do poorly during kennel stays. On the other hand, people do need to get away sometimes, and they can’t always take a pet along.

Though it would not be my first choice, many an animal may be successfully placed in a kennel, if it is responsibly run and if the stay is not too long. You should definitely check out the facility in person before committing your animal to it. Look for such things as the degree of privacy provided (each animal should have a place to rest quietly), the sanitation, the noise level, and the availability of sunlight, exercise space, fresh air, water, decent food, and medical care, should the need arise.

One of the greatest drawbacks of a kennel stay is the standard requirement that the dog or cat be vaccinated beforehand. Vaccines are often over-used and can cause persistent
health problems, especially in older animals. If your dog was vaccinated when young, there is no need to vaccinate again for the life of your animal (the exception is the schedule for rabies vaccination which, though likely not necessary that it be repeated so often, is controlled by community laws). Even though there is no scientific justification for vaccinating before going into a kennel, and some studies have even shown increased susceptibility to kennel cough in those dogs that have been vaccinated, many operators of kennels still make it a requirement. In my opinion, they should leave this decision to the veterinarian and not have a policy that applies to all.

If your animal is weak, old, or sickly, it is even more important that vaccines be avoided. One alternative is to try in-home care. This is also a good choice if you are planning a long absence or if you simply want to provide a better alternative to the kennel experience. We have used a house sitter—either a friend or a family member—with success. We have been fortunate in finding someone that needs a place to stay and trading the use of our home for them taking care of our pets and plants. No such person in your life? Ask a veterinarian, breeder, or local pet store staff to recommend a professional pet-sitter who will stop by once or twice a day to feed, groom, pet, and exercise your animal, and bring in the mail and water the plants, too. Twice a day is better for your pet (and we have used that schedule ourselves), but I realize cost is a factor. In our area, this service presently costs about $10 per visit. It is more in some areas of the country. In Washington, D.C., for instance, it is $20/day for cats and $35/day for dogs. If they are coming to your home, make sure they are insured and bonded as well. Most are. I have had very good luck with this type of service.

If you can’t get any leads from professionals, you might seek out teenagers who want a summer job, students in an animal health technician program, or humane society volunteers. A close friend, neighbor, or relative who already knows and likes the animal might even take pleasure in providing the care you want for your pet while you’re away. In such cases it might also work out for a friendly and well-behaved dog to stay at the sitter’s residence. In contrast to dogs, cats are generally less stressed by being left alone, as long as they’re on their own turf.

Here are some pointers on how to make the whole process go smoothly.

Introduce the sitter to your pet before you
leave.
Professional pet-sitters like to meet the pet before you leave and make sure they understand its routine. Do what you can to encourage your pet to be friendly with this new person. You could even arrange for the sitter to spend some time with your animal—perhaps going for a walk, playing, or holding it quietly for a while. Such preparations alleviate much of the stress and concern for you and are particularly good for an old or easily excitable pet.

Make certain the sitter you hire can and 
will provide adequate food, water, exercise,
and attention.
If you are using a home-prepared diet, make some up ahead of time and, if it’s a long trip, freeze it in convenient packages for the sitter to thaw and use. The feeding of your home-prepared food is very important to clarify with your sitter. The most common complaint I have heard is that the sitter, while doing a good job in most respects, does not follow directions on feeding, so that people arrive home to find all their carefully planned meals still in the freezer. I don’t know why this is, but it is something you should emphasize in your instructions.

Leave money and necessary instructions
for taking the animal to the vet in case of an
illness or an emergency.
Provide phone numbers where you or a close relative can be reached during your trip.

Add anti-stress supplements to your pet’s
diet.
If your pet tends to be excitable or seems likely to be upset at your absence, you can help him cope with emotional stress through nutrition. Starting about a week before the trip, add a complete B-complex tablet (including vitamins B
₂
, B
₆
, and pantothenic acid at the level of 5 to 15 milligrams, depending on the pet’s size) and/or a liberal amount of nutritional yeast to its food. Also, give one to two grams of vitamin C, particularly after any stressful period. If possible, space the vitamin C dosage throughout the day. The sitter should feed the vitamins while you’re gone, and you should continue to give the supplements for about a week after your return, unless your animal seems fine. If you know your pet is likely to be upset during this time it may help to add Bach’s Rescue Remedy to the water dish—four drops each time the bowl is filled.

Pay the sitter adequately.
The fee or barter should be sufficient to convey a sense of your animal’s value to you.

When you say good-bye to your pet, do so
with a calm demeanor and untroubled mind.
Since animals readily pick up people’s feelings, you might start things off on the wrong note if you are nervous or upset when you leave. It may even help to look the animal in the eye and visualize a happy reunion scene. Once you are gone, don’t cause yourself needless worry and anxiety. You did what you could.

Occasional absences, if thoughtfully handled, should not be a problem. Some animals, however, do develop physical or psychological ailments after being passed around from one temporary home to another. Any person with wanderlust or other out-of-town pursuits that cannot include a pet should consider placing her dog or cat in a permanent and supportive home where the pet will be better off.

TIPS FOR TRAVEL

What about taking a pet along on a vacation?

People find that many dogs and some cats (primarily the Siamese and Siamese-related breeds) can be excellent traveling companions if they are basically well-behaved and psychologically and physically healthy. However,
certain precautions and considerations are basic.

Make sure your pet is wearing a current
I.D.
Should you get parted, you need some way for the finder to reach you. The best type are waterproof identification “barrel” tags in which you can enclose a small piece of paper that says “If lost, please call—collect.” Give your cell phone number, the phone number of a friend or relative who is willing to take messages, or else provide the number of the place where you are staying. These tags are difficult to find, but very practical.

On long road trips, give your pet daily exercise.
For traveling dogs, at least half an hour of a vigorous game of fetch or a jog with you is important. If you like to let your dog run loose, do so only in a safe and appropriate area and, even then, only if the dog is well-trained to return on command.

Cats should wear a harness attached to a leash. Car rides and strange places are more upsetting to a cat than to a dog, and felines might bolt. Cats do well in a comfortably sized crate that can also hold a little litter pan. You can put a disposable diaper under the pan in case of any “spills” during the ride.

Never leave your pet in a sealed car on a
hot day.
Heat can build up very fast in a closed car, which acts like a solar oven, causing an animal to go into heat prostration. This may lead to serious brain injury and even death. See
Handling Emergencies and Giving First Aid
for first-aid treatment, should this problem ever occur.

Take familiar items with you.
A basket or piece of bedding from home can make any animal feel safer and more at ease. You could also take favorite toys to give your pet something to do.

Use commercial pet health foods for convenience,
if necessary.
But add vitamin C and vitamin B-complex (as suggested above) to help traveling animals deal with stress.

Anticipate nature’s calls.
For a cat, a litter box is basic gear for a road trip. Pre-filled disposable ones for traveling are now available at pet supply stores. Take a dog on a short stroll on a leash at least twice a day. Carry disposable bags and a scooper to use in public parks, cities, motel properties, and beaches.

Prepare for health problems that are
common to most travelers.
Constipation
can plague traveling pets. It can be caused by lack of exercise or water, infrequent stops, or anxiety about strange new territories. Temporary constipation is not a serious problem and will usually clear up before long. For a dog, you can prepare a useful preventive with figs, prunes, and raisins as well as fresh berries or other fruits in season. Bran or psyllium husks are also helpful.

Nausea
grips some animals when they ride in a car or plane, and they will either vomit or salivate excessively. The B-complex supplementation mentioned above will help prevent nausea. Also, encourage your pet to lie down on the floor of the car as a preventive. If motion sickness does occur, give your dog some peppermint tea or peppermint
capsules to help settle her stomach (not so well tolerated by cats). An alternative to using peppermint tea is a formula made from the 38 flower preparations discovered by Dr. Edward Bach (see chapter 14 for more information). Mix together Aspen, Elm, Scleranthus, and Vervain and give two drops of this formula every two hours to relieve the emotional upset and subsequent nausea.

It may be wise to fast a susceptible pet the day before departure or on the first day of the trip. For an animal going by public transit in a carrier, a 12-to 24-hour fast before the trip will generally prevent it from eliminating during the journey.

The homeopathic remedy
Aconitum
napellus
30C is very useful for minimizing fear and upset before traveling. Give one pellet of this medicine an hour before leaving home; give another pellet just a few minutes before actually leaving the house. This usually is enough for most animals and most trips. If nervousness returns, give your pet another dose (one pellet) during the trip itself. Rarely will this remedy be needed more than three or four times; in fact, most animals travel well with just the two doses given before leaving home. This medicine is very safe to use and often functions better than a tranquilizer.

Eye irritation
may occur in a dog that likes to ride with its head out the window, testing all the interesting scents it passes. Sometimes dust and debris enter the dog’s eyes at high speeds, scratching the cornea and irritating sensitive membranes. For a minor irritation, I suggest washing the eyes out with this mild salt (saline) solution quite similar to tears: Add a level ¼ teaspoon of sea salt to one cup of pure water and stir. Keep the solution at room temperature; pour a small amount into a cup or dish and apply it by dripping it from a saturated cotton ball into the eye or by using a glass or plastic dropper. Administer the liquid until it runs out of the eye to flush out irritating substances.

For more serious irritations, use a cup of the same saline solution and add five drops only of tincture (or alcoholic extract) of the herb
Euphrasia officinalis
, or eyebright. Use this solution in the eye four times a day.

If your pet has a serious corneal injury, the animal will keep its eye shut most of the time. In such a case, seek veterinary help. (See also
Corneal Ulcers
.)

A
IRLINE
T
RAVEL

Do not take an unhealthy pet on an airline. If you do take a pet on a flight, make sure that the animal won’t be exposed to extreme temperatures or possible suffocation while in the cargo compartment. Shorter flights generally pose less of a problem.