Diane von Furstenberg (46 page)

Collins, Nancy, 138

Colman, David, 20

Color Authority:

Avon fashion line, 227

DVF cosmetics line, 162–63, 192, 197

Comcast Corporation, 213, 214, 222

Condé Nast, 42, 70

Connolly, Cyril, 191

Conrad, Richard, 62, 94, 99

and cosmetics, 126

Diane’s partnership with, 81–82, 83–84, 90–92, 93, 236

and DVF decline, 153, 154, 158, 161

and Egon, 83, 103–4

and wrap dress, 106, 107, 108, 112

Cooper, Wilhelmina, 54, 169

Coppola, Francis Ford, 135

Cornfeld, Bernie, 33–34

Cosgrave, Liam, 149

Coty Awards, 86

Council of Fashion Designers of America, 7, 86, 261–63, 270, 271

Courrèges, 29

Couture Group, 86

Crowell, Judy, 216

Crowley, Mart, The Boys in the Band, 72–73

Crystal, David, 80

Cuba, Diane’s travel to, 204

Cutrone, Ronnie, 125

D

Daggett, Darlene, 209

Dalí, Salvador, 43, 270

Deanna (friend), 28, 142

de Gaulle, Charles, 40, 44

DeGeneres, Ellen, 235

de la Renta, Annette, 253

de la Renta, Françoise, 117

de la Renta, Oscar, 2, 74, 75, 87, 96, 100, 109, 110, 117, 142, 158, 166, 203, 261

Deneuve, Catherine, 51

De Sole, Domenico, 244

Diaghilev, Sergey, 73

Diane von Furstenberg, 91–99

and affordability, 99, 110, 183, 207

collaboration in, 93–95, 110

Conrad as partner in, 81–84, 90–92, 93

cosmetics line, 125–29, 158, 160–61, 162–63, 177, 181, 197

decline of, 151–60, 197–98, 202, 228

DVF initialism of, 91, 123, 183;
see also
DVF

“Feel like a woman, wear a dress,” 97, 134, 254–55

and Ferretti, 91–92

finances of, 6, 91–92, 99, 114, 153–54, 155, 181, 187, 197, 237, 244

first opening of, 77–79

growth of, 80, 92, 143–44, 152, 154, 258

jeans line, 163

jewelry, 94, 154

launch of, 63–64

licensing deals, 5, 123–24, 152, 154, 158, 162, 163, 183, 193, 197, 206

“Made in Italy” label, 91

offices of, 63–64, 89, 90–91, 161–62, 191

and publicity, 146, 254–55, 257

restructuring of, 161, 225

sale of dress business, 155–58, 162, 181

samples, 62, 63–64

and Sears, 143–44, 191, 197

styles available from, 62, 65–67, 68–69, 83, 95, 98–99, 107, 124, 210–11

success of, 81, 99

Diesel, 205

Diller, Barry, 131–37

ambition of, 209, 214, 222–23

and Diane’s business, 155, 157, 161, 210, 212, 223, 233, 244–45, 264

and Diane’s legacy, 259

Diane’s relationship with, 133–34, 135–37, 170–71, 174, 187, 203, 204, 212, 214–15, 233, 252–53, 268

early years of, 132–33

marriage to Diane, 5–6, 136, 250–54, 259

and NBC, 213

negotiating deals, 133, 157, 210, 213–14, 222, 223

and parties, 132, 163, 164, 202

and Q2, 217–18

and QVC, 209–10, 212, 213–14, 222–23

Diller, Donald, 134–35

Diller-von Furstenberg Foundation, 244, 263, 271

Dior, Christian, 85, 87, 92, 202, 231

and licensing, 123, 156

New Look, 29, 96, 111, 221

Disney, Walt, 123

DKNY, 199

Drake, Alicia, 194

Dubuffet, Jean, 121

Duong, Anh, 263–64

Dutry, Mireille, 17, 23, 24, 27, 29, 37–38

Dutry, Tinou, 23–24

DVF:

public offering, 259–60

and Q2, 217–18

and QVC, 208–14, 216–17, 222

relaunching, 208, 225–27, 259

Silk Assets, 210–12, 214, 227, 230, 246

Surroundings, 216–17

as trademark, 91, 123–29, 183, 265

DVF Awards, 5, 263–64

DVF boutiques:

beauty stores, 125–29

cosmetics makeovers, 127–28

decline of, 151–60, 161, 197–98

in New York, 6, 182–84, 185, 186, 254

success of, 81, 123–29, 146

worldwide, 6

dvf.com, 250

DVF division, Russ Togs, 205–7

DVF Home Design, 5

DVF Studio, 78, 225–26

business plan of, 246

“Diane” label of, 225, 227–28

expansion of, 242–43, 258

finances of, 233, 244–45

formal opening of, 234–35

spring collections (2000), 245–46; (2001), 248

DVF Woman, 23, 78–79, 91, 183, 242

E

Edgar, Joanne, 148

Eisenhower, Julie Nixon, 105–6

Elkann, Alain, 184–96, 202, 203, 215, 238, 252, 268

Elkann, John, 192

Elkann, Margherita, 184

Elkin, Stanley, 36

Ellis, Bret Easton, 188

Ellis, Perry, 170

Erhard, Werner, 155

Ernst, Max, 121

Estévez, Luis, 148–49

Evans, Bob, 138

Evert, Chris, 157

F

Fairchild, John, 67–68, 152–53, 168–69

Falaise, Loulou de la, 194–96

Fashion:

as about archetypes, 78

as about exclusion, 45–46

accessories in, 259

affordable, 55, 99, 110, 113, 183, 207

and AIDS, 167, 169–70, 179, 200, 247

allure of, 170

American style, 74, 85, 86–87, 95, 96

Best Dressed List, 86

branding in, 124, 199, 247, 259, 265

celebrity designers, 68, 198–201

changes in, 6, 7, 44, 68–69, 95–96, 151, 197–98, 237, 247–48

collaborative process of, 93–95, 110

competition in, 89, 110–11, 126

and copyright laws, 261–62

corporate focus in, 197–98

and culture, 28, 68, 96, 113

decline of couture, 44

and gay circles, 73, 74, 169–70

and identity, 28

and licensing, 123–24, 156–57

magazines, 66–68

manufacture of, 55, 198

“moments” in, 141–42, 221, 262

museum exhibits, 6–7, 232

in New York, see New York

nostalgia in, 228–29

outsourcing of, 198

and politics, 72

psychic phenomena in, 92–93

public offerings, 259–60

purpose of, 109

and romance, 96–97

in the sixties, 44, 55

and the spirit of the moment, 106, 111

standards of beauty in, 97–98

symbolic power of, 28

and wealth, 28–29

Federated Department Stores, 227–28

Feinberg, Sue, 47, 48, 92, 93, 94–95, 99, 106, 113, 228

Fendi, 190

Féraud, Louis, 48

Ferragamo, 48

Ferré, Gianfranco, 202

Ferretti, Angelo, 46–49

cotton-jersey fabric of, 48, 83, 94–95, 98, 107, 154, 158

death of, 160, 230

Diane as apprentice with, 46–47, 62, 230

and Diane’s business, 61, 63, 66, 80, 83, 91–92, 94–95, 99, 108, 158

and DVF decline, 158–60

factories of, 47, 55, 59, 61, 66, 92, 94, 99, 113, 158

merrowing machine of, 99, 113

and wrap dress, 107, 108, 113, 114

Ferretti, Mimmo, 45, 46, 48, 69, 77, 158–60

Fitzgerald, F. Scott, Tender Is the Night, 42

Fonda, Jane, 51

Forbes, Malcolm, 203

Ford, Betty, 76, 148, 149

Ford, Tom, 228, 241, 244

Forth, Jane, 65

Fox, James, 188–89

Fox network, 209, 213

Francke, Linda Bird, 9, 58, 60, 102–3, 110, 114, 127, 145–46, 192, 239

Franklin, Aretha, 176, 182

French Revolution, 96

Fressange, Ines de la, 189–90

Fried, Stephen, 168, 169

Friedan, Betty,
The Feminine Mystique,
97

Friedman, Vanessa, 261

Funicello, Annette, 208

G

Gaetani, Roffredo, 215–16, 252

Gallant, Ara, 144

Galliano, John, 221–22, 231

Garis, Leslie, 107

Gawronski, Jas, 116, 118, 134, 174, 252, 268

Geffen, David, 135, 204

Gelbsman, Olivier, 5, 119, 144, 175, 176, 185, 187

Gere, Richard, 3, 116, 174, 175

Getty, Paul and Talitha, 60

Giammetti, Giancarlo, 46

Gilbert, Elizabeth, 175

Gilman, Charlotte Perkins, 79

Gilman, Sondra, 111

Giorgio Beverly Hills, 65

Giuliani, Rudolph, 248

Givenchy, Hubert, 67, 87, 156

Goldman, Andrew, 136

Gordon, Nona, 34–35, 40, 60

Graham, Martha, 76

Graves, Michael, 182

Greene, Milton, 82

Greenfield, Stefani, 78, 124, 234

Gregorini, Francesca, 252, 266

Gribetz, Lester, 208–9, 210

Grinda, Florence, 41–42, 49

Grinda, Jean-Noël, 42

Gross, Ellen, 272

Gross, Michael, 145, 199

Gucci, 99, 228, 244

Guest, C. Z., 210

Gunn, Tim, 86

H

Haden-Guest, Anthony, 77

Haim, Simon and Line, 12

Halfin, Diane, see von Furstenberg, Diane

Halfin, Greta, 180, 250, 252

Halfin, Leon, 11–14, 16–17, 18–20, 22, 24, 26–27, 172, 222, 250

Halfin, Lily:

breakdown and recovery of, 172–73, 174, 175, 227

breakup with Leon, 26–27

death of, 250

depression of, 18, 26, 39, 172