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Authors: Ruth Reichl

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BOOK: Delicious!
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“I wonder if he wrote back?”

“Judging by the date,” Sammy was holding up the next letter, “he must have answered by return post.”

N
OVEMBER
15, 1942

Dear Mr. Beard
,

I didn’t know you were at Fort Dix, or that the editors had forwarded my letter, but if you don’t mind my saying so, you would be much more useful to the war effort helping people like me. I’m not trying to flatter you, but Uncle Sam is wasting your talents. (Oh, yes, the answer to your question? I am twelve, but I will be thirteen soon.)

Thank you for the pamphlets from the Department of Agriculture. I had my doubts, but you’re right: They surely beat Prudence Penny. Yesterday I took their advice and made green tomato mincemeat; they said it was a good way to use up the last tomatoes sitting on the vine
.

I wish you could have seen the kitchen when I was done: It looked like a hurricane had blown right in the door! But I cleaned it all up, and when Mother came home the whole house smelled warm and spicy, Bing Crosby was singing “White Christmas” on the radio, I was wearing a clean apron, and she called me her “little homemaker.”

What would you think about tomato mincemeat cookies? I bet no one else will think of that! Mr. Beard, if you’ll help me figure out a recipe, I promise to never bother you again. Cross my heart
.

Sincerely yours
,
Lulu Swan

“Green tomato mincemeat does not strike me as particularly toothsome.” Sammy put the letter back in the folder.

“Thrifty, though,” I said. “And it was nice of him to send those pamphlets.”

“He did more than that.” Sammy held up another letter and then slowly lowered himself to the floor. “What is the point of remaining
upright when being seated is so much more agreeable?” He patted the floor beside him and I sat down toọ.

N
OVEMBER
29, 1942

Dear Mr. Beard
,

Mother said it was “presumptuous” of me to change your recipe, but I knew you wouldn’t mind, because I made it better. I added some nuts, just to give the cookies what Tommy Stroh calls “that old pizzazz.” I gave them a new name too; I didn’t think very much of Crybaby Cookies. They have become Magic Moments. So much better, don’t you think?

Mother likes to say that a fair exchange is no robbery, so I’m enclosing a pot holder as a thank-you. I made it myself. I was trying for the shape of a maple leaf, but it turned out more like a squirrel, so please pretend it’s soft and fuzzy
.

Your friend
,
Lulu

P. S. Mother says I must ask if you are sincere when you say that you’d like to continue our correspondence. Are you? May I ask for more recipes?

Sammy was laughing softly. “Who on earth could say no to this child? Certainly not James Beard. And from what I have heard, he was extraordinarily generous to his fans.” He was rooting through the file. “Here is another one!” He triumphantly held up a crinkled yellow sheet of paper.

D
ECEMBER
8, 1942

Dear Mr. Beard
,

Thank you for your letter. I read Mother the part where you said it’s good when people change recipes to make them their own. She says that you are a very wise man
.

Last week our whole school gathered in the auditorium for the cookie wrapping. First we popped gallons of corn to pack them in, and then we traded the cookies around so we could taste them all. Tommy said mine were the best, and although I don’t want to sound conceited, he was right. I knew you’d send me a wonderful recipe!

Tommy and I put on a radio play to entertain everyone while they packed their cookies. It was about a girl who saves up money for a prom dress, but at the last minute she says, “It’s only clothes,” and buys war bonds instead. The play was a big success, and my whole school pledged to buy war bonds, which should have made me happy. But it gave me a queer feeling; it’s easy to write propaganda when everyone agrees with you. Do you understand? I think I’d rather bake cookies; it feels more honest
.

Your friend
,
Lulu

Sammy looked down at me. “A girl after your own heart!” he said. “In my experience it is a rare female who can say, ‘It’s only clothes,’ and mean it.” His face grew pensive. “You know, my mother used to say that when the war came, you discovered who you really were. Women changed. Children grew up overnight. I wonder what happened to this one.” He opened the folder, thumbing through the pages until he found another letter from Lulu.

D
ECEMBER
9, 1942

Dear Mr. Beard
,

I’m sorry to write again so soon; Mother says I mustn’t bombard you with letters. But I sent my Magic Moments off yesterday, and that made me think of you
.

I hope the cookies will show Father that here on Lookout Avenue we are always thinking about him, always praying that he will land his plane safely. And I hope they’ll remind him of our life here in Akron. Or maybe I should say what life used to be, before the war changed everything
.

I haven’t heard Mother laugh since she began building airplanes out at the Airdock. She always used to sing along with the radio, but yesterday she made me turn it off when “Cow Cow Boogie” came on; she said it gave her the jitters. She never used to get angry like other mothers either, but now every little thing upsets her. Today she yelled at me for cutting the bread too thick; she said it was wasteful. When I said it served the government right for making that stupid rule about not selling sliced bread anymore, she made me go to my room and think about all the soldiers who have no bread. I wish the war was over and Father was home and Mother back in the kitchen, singing with the radio. Is life ever going to be normal again?

Thank you for being my friend,
Lulu

I knew how it felt to wish life could go back to the way it used to be. Was it different during wartime, when it was happening to everyone at the same time? Was it easier when you didn’t feel so alone?

“What do you remember about the war?” I asked Sammy.

“How decrepit do you think I am?” he snapped. “I will have you know that the war drew to a close long before I entered this world.”

I could feel my face get hot. “Not to worry.” Sammy patted my hand. “I brought that upon myself, nattering on about what Mother used to say about the war. But I believe those were the happiest years of her life.”

“Wait, she was happy your father was gone?”

He leaned back against the wall. It was cozy in here, sitting on the floor in the murky light of the room, Sammy next to me and all that paper rustling around us. “On the contrary. But during the war she managed a gas station, and she adored everything about it—mucking about with the engines, changing oil, pumping fuel, washing windows. She was rather miserable when the war ended and she was obliged to resume the housewife’s role; I remember her banging furiously around the kitchen, heaving pots and pans about. She said the house felt like a prison, closing in around her.” Sammy stopped himself. “I am making my mother sound like a gorgon, which she was not. But she was not destined to do housework.” He looked down at the folder, eager to end this conversation. “Let us hope for another letter.”

D
ECEMBER
18, 1942

Dear Mr. Beard
,

The telegram man came today. I saw him walk up Lookout Avenue, through our little white gate and go under the grape arbor, and the whole time he was walking up the flagstone path to our door, my heart was pounding. When he rang the bell I didn’t want to answer it
.

Father is not dead, but the secretary of war regretted to inform us that he’s missing in action. When I was finished crying, I went into the kitchen, splashed water on my face, and used up all my meat points for a hearty stew. Mother will need it to keep up her strength and her spirits
.

She knew right away, the very minute she came in the door, that something was wrong. She saw the telegram in my hand. “Is
he …?” she asked. And when I shook my head no, she hugged me hard and went to wash her hands. I don’t think she wanted me to see her cry
.

Mother says we must prepare for the worst. But where does that get you? Besides, I do not believe for one minute that Father is dead. The world would feel lonelier without him, and it still feels the same. I know that one day he will get my Magic Moments
.

I was going to send you some for Christmas, but Mother says that you have no use for cookies from a little girl in Akron who can hardly cook. (She always underestimates me, but that is my cross to bear.) So I am sending you another pot holder. It comes with my very dearest wish that your holidays are happier than ours
.

Your friend
,
Lulu

“Are you crying?” asked Sammy.

“Of course not.” I was grateful the room was so dark. Picturing Lulu alone in her kitchen had made something twist inside me. “Do you think her father ever got the cookies?” I asked. “I wonder if he survived.”

Sammy held up the next piece of stationery. The handwriting was not Lulu Swan’s.

“Aren’t we going to find out what happened to her father?”

Sammy pointed to the shelves. “Thousands of letters are filed away up there, and I would wager good money that there are more from Lulu. That girl is not a quitter.”

“But how’re we ever going to find them?” I looked at the fat folders, with their acres of crumbling pages.

“You are a resourceful young woman,” he said briskly. “I am certain that you will think of something.” He was silent for a moment and then, as if the words were coming to him as he spoke, he said, “ ‘Dear James Beard’ would make a lovely article. If there are enough letters, it could even be a book.”

“You knew about the letters, didn’t you?” It hit me that he’d lured me up here to provide me with a project.

“I beg your pardon?” Sammy looked so genuinely astonished that I knew I’d been wrong. “I am sorry to disabuse you of this remarkable notion, but I am flabbergasted by this find.”

“Flabbergasted! What a wonderful word.”

“Please consider writing the article. It is an excellent notion.”

“I will. I’ll think about it.”

“Well, do not cogitate for a protracted period. The Timbers Mansion is worth a king’s ransom, and in due course Young Arthur will attempt to sell it. The market is in momentary decline, but that will surely change. If you want to unearth Lulu’s letters, you had best do so with celerity. And that, my dear, is the end of the speech.” He unfolded himself from the floor. “I need to perambulate and get my blood flowing.”

Sammy held out his hand and pulled me to my feet. We ducked through the door, pushed the bookcase back in place, and made our way through the golden light to the library door.

As it closed behind us, the stench of the building attacked us anew, stronger than before. But it didn’t bother me much. Something had shifted. Lulu was in the library, sharing the Timbers Mansion. I was no longer alone.

Library Ladies


W
HAT’S WRONG WITH YOU?”
SAL GRUMBLED THE SECOND TIME I
gave a customer the wrong cheese. “Your head’s somewhere else.” Brow furrowed, he took my hand and led me into the back kitchen. “What’s going on?”

“I was thinking about the war.”

“Vietnam? Korea?”

“No, the big one. World War Two. Do you know what it was like during rationing?”

“Pop used to talk about how hard it had been. They couldn’t get anything from Europe after the shipping lanes closed. Cheese wasn’t rationed, but the only products they could get were made in America. Why do you ask?”

I’d been trying to imagine what it was like to live with the constant fear of death. The men you loved could die at any minute; they might, in fact, already be dead. How did Lulu bear that knowledge? How did anyone?

I was telling Sal about the letters when Rosalie came charging into the back kitchen. “Theresa and I could use a little help out there,” she said, tugging at my sleeve. “It’s Sunday.”

I looked at my watch: almost two o’clock, which was when Mr. Complainer always showed up. “C’mon, Rosalie, you know that man has zero interest in me.”

“You never know,” she said, herding me back into the shop. “Have you ever thought about contact lenses? Your eyes are so pretty.”

Right on cue, Mr. Complainer walked through the door. Today, however, he was not alone.

“Oh, she’s much too thin.” Rosalie watched disapprovingly as he steered a blonde in a shearling coat toward the counter.

He pointed out various Fontanari landmarks: the towering wheels of Parmigiano, the chilies dangling from the ceiling, the cans of wood-roasted coffee on the shelves. She looked fascinated, laughing up at him, holding his arm. He introduced her to Jane, who took her hand and smiled indulgently, and I could almost hear her saying what a treat it was to see young lovers in the shop.

“That’s a lot of makeup for a trip to the grocery store,” Rosalie remarked.

“She’s very pretty,” I said.

“Too thin,” Rosalie repeated, pushing me forward as their number came up. Mr. Complainer shot a disappointed glance toward the end of the counter.

“That”—he nodded toward Sal, who’d just started serving the guys from the local firehouse—“is the legendary Sal Fontanari, and since he’s with his favorite customers, it’s bound to take at least an hour. Meanwhile, we will be in the very capable hands of Wilhelmina. She’s the first outsider Sal’s ever permitted behind the counter of Fontanari’s. We’re all convinced she has magical powers. And this”—he turned to me—“is Amy, who hails from deepest New Jersey, where there are no shops like Fontanari’s.”

“Nice to meet you,” said Amy primly. I hated her.

“What can I do for you?” I asked.

“We’re having a party.” Mr. Complainer took over.

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