Bread Machine (86 page)
Slash the loaf decoratively with an X using a sharp knife. Dust the tops with flour and rub in.
Place the baking sheet on another baking sheet of the same size (called double panning), to prevent burning the bottoms of the loaves. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the loaves are brown, crisp, and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely before slicing.
P
ane Toscana, or Tuscan bread, is a staple in Northern Italy and usually homemade. It has been made for centuries, always without salt, meant to provide contrast to the saltier foods it is eaten with. Fifteen years ago, my Aunt Marge sent me a clipping, now yellowed with age, from the New Brunswick, New Jersey,
Daily News.
It was a recipe for Tuscan peasant bread. It was the first time I had seen this recipe with a bit of whole wheat flour added, and it fast became a standard loaf in my repertoire. It also called for a pinch of salt, more to the American palate. Years later I realized this recipe came from Egi Maccioni, the wife of Sirio Maccioni, the owner of Le Cirque 2000 restaurant in New York City. This is the bread called for in Italian-style bread salads, canapes with sliced smoked salmon, and in
ribolita,
the Tuscan minestrone made with bread instead of pasta. “But it is not good for toast,” said Egi. “I don’t know why, it just isn’t.” Use the coarsest grind of whole wheat flour you can find for this bread.
1
1
/
2
-POUND LOAF
1
1
/
3
cups water
2
2
/
3
cups bread flour
1
/
3
cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon gluten
1
3
/
4
teaspoons SAF yeast or 2
1
/
4
teaspoons bread machine yeast
Pinch of sugar Pinch of salt (see Note)
2-POUND LOAF
1
3
/
4
cups water
3
1
/
2
cups bread flour
1
/
2
cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon plus
1 teaspoon gluten
2
1
/
4
teaspoons SAF yeast or 2
3
/
4
teaspoons bread machine yeast
Pinch of sugar Pinch of salt (see Note)
To make the sponge, place the water, 1 cup of the bread flour, the whole wheat flour, the gluten, and the yeast in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer’s instructions. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the sponge rest in the machine for 1 hour.
To make the dough, add the remaining 1
2
/
3
cups bread flour (for the 1
1
/
2
-pound loaf) or 2
1
/
2
cups (for the 2-pound loaf), the sugar, and salt to the sponge in the bread pan. Set the crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. The dough ball will be moist and a bit slack.
When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing. This bread keeps for 3 days at room temperature.
NOTE:
With a medium-sized hand, a two-finger pinch is about 1
1
/
6
teaspoon and a three-finger pinch will be about double that amount. Use the amount that suits your palate.
VARIATION
Pane Toscana with Green and Black Olives
For the 1
1
/
2
-pound loaf:
2
/
3
cup pitted green and black olives, any combination
For the 2-pound loaf:
3
/
4
cup pitted green and black olives, any combination
Follow the recipe as directed, programming the machine as specified in Step 2. When the machine beeps, or between Knead 1 and Knead 2, add the olives. Continue as directed.
T
his olive oil bread,
pane all’olio,
uses a
biga,
an Italian starter. It is one of the easiest breads to make of those that require starters. White flour, water, and yeast are mixed together, then left to sit in the machine for many hours before the dough is mixed. The bread is baked fully in the machine, and ends up with a delicate crumb and very, very good flavor. Use a fruity extra-virgin olive oil in this dough and serve some more for dipping when you eat the fresh loaf. This bread is good made into bruschetta.
1
1
/
2
-POUND LOAF
For the biga starter:
3
/
4
cup water
1
1
/
2
cups bread flour
1
/
2
teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast
For the dough:
1
/
4
cup water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1
1
/
2
cups bread flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon gluten
1
1
/
2
teaspoons salt
1
1
/
4
teaspoons SAF yeast or 1
3
/
4
teaspoons bread machine yeast
2-POUND LOAF
For the biga starter:
1 cup water
2 cups bread flour
1
/
2
teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast
For the dough:
1
/
2
cup water
1
/
4
cup olive oil
2 cups bread flour