Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (40 page)

Two Looks, One Model
The “All-American” (opposite) and the “Rock-and-roller.” The black shadow was meant to be both messy and wet. I call it “Brigitte Bardot the morning after.”

White face and red on center of lips.

Blush is theatrically applied. The eyebrows are
Madame Butterfly
—inspired.

Red liner instead of black—why not?

Blush is applied as eye shadow and layered with true red lipstick.

Finished face. Note that the ears and the top of the forehead were intentionally not made up.

I’ve always loved unusual beauty. This is not a before photo. To me this face is a blank canvas.

The model looks like a Joffrey Ballet dancer. Pretty, pink, and elegant.

Amy Winehouse—inspired look: the blush is left off intentionally and only foundation is applied to her lips.

Some models are chameleons and can carry any look. It’s always fun to play with makeup on them. The trick is knowing when and where to stop.

The necklace is the inspiration for the makeup. The black cream shadow on the eyes may be too much. But the look is dramatic.

MAKEUP for TELEVISION & FILM

TELEVISION

There is a misconception that makeup done for television has to be heavy. That is not the case. The bright lights of television studios can wash out makeup colors, but don’t overcompensate with too heavy a hand. Use the same products you would use for day. Just make sure they are pumped up a notch, and perfectly blended.

Brighten the under-eye area by layering pink-toned corrector under yellow-toned concealer. Then set it with loose powder applied with a powder brush or puff. This step is an absolute necessity as television lights increase shine.

Use full-coverage foundation followed by powder to keep it matte. Sheer tints are too subtle for television.

Even if a glow is desired, it needs to be added to the cheeks at the end of the makeup application.

Color tends to wash out, so always use two shades of blush—one natural shade followed by a brighter pop of color. Correct blending is a must.

Avoid lip colors that are too light unless the subject’s lips are so full that you want to downplay them. Television tends to wash out natural tones.

Define lips with pencil.

Make sure hands, arms, neck, and ears all match the face.

Bronzer is a great help, especially on the neck.