A Guide to Quality, Taste and Style (9 page)

As we put this list together, it became obvious that one thing tied these women together: They always look like themselves. And what an achievement that is, to remain unswayed by the hurricanes of trend and the maelstroms of media hype. Although we’ve placed each of our mentors in a certain category, many cross back and forth.

Carine Roitfeld—Charlotte Gainsbourg—Catherine Deneuve
The French are “like it or lump it” practitioners
par excellence
. They do not share the American lust for sweetness and light, and as a result, their stylish women often have an edge that their counterparts here lack. This is not so much about the particular pieces they wear, but the way they are worn and the way they fit. Take for example Carine Roitfeld, Editor-in-Chief of French
Vogue
. This former model and stylist rims her eyes in black, has striking brows, and has entirely unfussy shoulder-length hair. Looking through photos, you cannot miss the fact that whether she is in a huge fur jacket or a button-down, she radiates sex and a certain toughness. She is also over fifty. Unlike so many of her contemporaries in the fashion world, she does not look like a big evening out for her might include some dry toast and demitasse of Evian. Ms. Roitfeld looks ready to have a smoke, a vodka, and a roll in the hay. Bravo!

Charlotte Gainsbourg is the child of two stars—the late, great Serge Gainsbourg and the English singer and actress Jane Birkin. It was for Jane that the Hermès “Birkin bag” was created, supposedly to hold Charlotte’s diapers. How could she
not
grow up to be stylish? Now in her early thirties, Charlotte does that French hair thing like nobody else. French hair, for some reason, looks best dirty and undone. With the hair, her obvious intelligence, and a wardrobe of classic pieces—trench coat, black dress, menswear-inspired looks—she manages to achieve what eludes so many: effortless chic. In a sense, she bridges the gap between Ms. Roitfeld and the following mentor, Catherine Deneuve.

Ahhh, the bridges of Paris! Catherine Deneuve is simply a gorgeous person. But for us, what is important is how she styles herself. Classic, classic, classic. Straight out of the 7th you might say—the arrondissement of quiet money and privilege—her wardrobe, then and now, sets off her beauty rather than fights it. Think of her as Séverine in
Belle de Jour
. First, you see Ms. Deneuve, then those fabulous Yves Saint Laurent clothes. Spare and graphic, her garments aren’t crying out for attention like a needy toddler. Ms. Deneuve is free to project an unbridled sexiness, while always being absolutely regal. She is an ice princess, but one who could burn you.

Signature Look

This look, like so many, is actually a state of mind. It is entirely correct—the dress fits beautifully—but it does not vie for approbation. This can feel strange to the woman
who feels casually dressed unless she is in something revealing. In other words, there are more ways to seduce than by removing most of your clothes before heading out for the evening. French women dress to send the message they intend to send. So, sleep a few nights on that hair, throw on a knee-length black skirt and a trench coat, spritz your neck with a little Eau du Soir, and have a glass of wine at lunch.
Merde
, why not allow
les petites
to have a sip as well? How else will they develop their palates?

Angelina Jolie—Nigella Lawson—Julie Christie

These are the women who make you want to lock up your menfolk. They are sexy, yes, but there is something else that vaults them into the realm of irresistibility. By the way, if you haven’t read it, plan to pick up
The Odyssey
for your next beach vacation. What an adventure! It has monsters, suitors, shepherds—and most important—sirens. The sirens were half-avian maidens who lured sailors with their enchanting songs, causing the poor mariners to wreck their ships. Although causing a maritime disaster might be a bit much, who doesn’t like the idea of being fatally irresistible? One might assume that sirens are born and not made, but the ways of the siren can be cultivated. What becomes a siren most is a combination of carnality and . . . something else. Take for instance Angelina Jolie. Yes, she is extremely impressive physically, but what elevates her to siren status is her air of machisma. She flies a plane and sports a Cartier Tank watch like nobody’s business. She rarely deviates from her classic, menswear-inspired
pieces. In that respect, her wardrobe makes her eligible for honorary Française status—the great trousers, the simple black tees and sweaters that allow her to always look great, even in those paparazzi shots. She’s a sexy, sophisticated woman rather than a cream puff. Perhaps you like the cream puff idea, though, without the tattoos and leather pants. In that case, we offer Nigella Lawson.

Nigella Lawson is the lushly figured British television chef. Although she has that aforementioned figure, a throaty voice, and a lovely face, she writes—and cooks—with wit and intelligence. That’s what elevates her to siren status. And all those smiles and moans of pleasure while cooking don’t hurt, either. One quality that all sirens share is that they are capable of taking a sensual pleasure in the things around them. This is why the siren often gravitates to cashmere, leather, and silk garments. It does not mean, though, that the siren must spend her day in a peignoir. Ms. Lawson opts for simple, fitted tops and dark bottoms. Her sweaters are tight, yes, but the judicious deployment of foundation garments keeps everything smooth and bump-free.

Another siren to investigate is the actress Julie Christie. Surely you’ve seen
Doctor Zhivago
. If not, please do, even though according to acclaimed critic Edward Said’s memoir, Omar Sharif was not a very nice schoolboy. What is important for our purposes is the absolutely radiant Lara, played by Ms. Christie. This is a siren with incredible dignity and a fabulous fur hat. Any style fan should acquaint herself, really, with all of Ms. Christie’s work from the ’60s and ’70s. Not only is
Darling
chockablock
with wonderful sixties looks, it’s a valuable cautionary tale for anyone, male or female, who is considering becoming a trophy wife.

Signature Look

It’s all in the eyes. Often sirens have a look in their eyes that says they are fascinated by something, and few things are as attractive as passionate interest. Whether it is food or the impending arrival of the Bolsheviks, the siren has something on her mind, something beyond what she is wearing. While awakening the siren within, you must cultivate an air of devil-may-care. Try a body-conscious wrap dress, but invest in a supportive bra and control-top hosiery. The key is to understand that you are in control of your body
and
how much of it you choose to reveal.

Katharine Hepburn—Coco Chanel

These are the women who make you want to lock up your menfolk
and
your womenfolk. This is a look that blurs the gender distinction. Instead of menswear-inspired looks, this category of dressers may just opt for actual menswear. That is not to say that the goal is to look just like a man, quite the opposite. This category plays with the provocative contrast between the signals sent by masculine clothes and the female body that is wearing them. Furthermore, it takes a powerful, confident woman to pull off a cummerbund. And we all know that confidence and power make up a particularly potent cocktail of erotic attractiveness. The fact that our culture’s current vocabulary of femininity is rather limited makes this look all the more radical. So radical, in fact, that we must turn to the past to come up with the most famous examples.

Standing loafers and wingtips above the competition is Katharine Hepburn. She scandalized Hollywood with her trousers, but forever won a place in the fashion pantheon. Her brisk Yankee beauty was unmistakable in golf clothes or evening gowns. Talk about owning a look! Who else could make a whole
style
of top—the turtleneck—so unmistakably theirs?

Many of the items we consider unisex today were once squarely in the menswear category. We can thank Coco Chanel for fixing that situation. Part of her masculine
mystique had to do with using untraditional fabrics—fabrics associated exclusively with menswear, like wool flannel and wool jersey (the latter being associated with mens’ undergarments). She was also a stylist extraordinaire: She raided the closets of her lovers and restyled their jackets and shirts to suit herself. Physically, she set herself apart as well, with chicly cropped hair and a tan when the very idea of getting sun was strictly verboten for the upper classes. But Chanel’s
big
menswear nod (and the sole article of apparel that branded her as being masculine) were her trousers—yet another scandal! What is it that people find so frightening about a woman wearing the pants? That’s a whole other book, but what is important is that this look retains its charge today.

Signature Look

This is an easy one. First, find a crisp oxford-cloth shirt with light starch. It will work with everything and play nicely with overtly feminine pieces, like full skirts. Second, visit the other perfume counter. Gender differences in perfume are nothing more than a marketing choice. Dabble a bit. You’ll be pleased.

Sofia Coppola—Natalie Portman

Classic, feminine, and young. Sounds a bit like a law firm, doesn’t it? In this case, though, it is the writer and director Sofia Coppola we are discussing. Petite with extremely striking features, Ms. Coppola actually managed to look cool winning an Oscar. Yes, there may be some factors
that make it tempting to dismiss her—the extremely famous family, her close relationship with Marc Jacobs—but let’s be fair, who couldn’t use a little bit of her sartorial sangfroid? In a recent article in
The New York Times Magazine
, she led a walk around Paris in simple black ballet flats, a black pleated skirt, and a navy pullover. In another photo she appeared in jeans and a black crewneck sweater. One does not get the sense that she agonized that morning over what to wear. That is not to say she looked sloppy or underdone. She looks great and comfortable in her clothing and her skin. She is an excellent example of a modern gamine.

Another contemporary gamine is the absolutely lovely Natalie Portman. Ms. Portman, too, is petite, which raises the issue of whether petite-ness is a prerequisite for being gaminesque. Well, from a strictly etymological standpoint, the answer would be yes, since the French word as a noun refers to a child or adolescent. However, it also means “mischievous” or “impish.” We believe you can be mischievous and impish at any size. Ms. Portman manages to look both sophisticated and age-appropriate despite her petite stature. She favors simple shapes in a muted color palette. Her choices almost always fall within the realm of classic, while never being stuffy.

Signature Look

Ahh, those French, here they are again. The key to this look is simplicity. For warm weather: a basic shift and ballet flats or leather sandals. And for the winter: pretty much the same but with seasonally appropriate fabrics.
Flat boots, wool tights, ballet slippers. The gamine is rarely seen in a heel.

Kate Moss—Sarah Jessica Parker—Chloe Sevigny

This category is subtitled “You Laugh Now, But You’ll Buy Later.” These are the ladies who dwell in the cold and lonely peaks of fashion. Yes, the air is purer up there, but sometimes the folks at sea level just don’t get these looks. Give it a year, though, and everyone at zero elevation will be clamoring for leggings. Sometimes the elevation leads to choices by these ladies that are just, shall we say,
too
challenging, and all the lowland dwellers and their blogs go crazy over what they wore to that gala. This is the risky part of being a risk taker. But she plows ahead knowing that in many cases, time, and the buyers at Barneys, will vindicate her.